Failing macerator pumps

[Shearwater]

Kind of a touchy subject but we haven’t had a failure in a 7 year old system (Tecma Electric) that is used everyday (liveaboard cruisers) by not putting toilet paper in the system. There is a small can next to the toilet that paper goes into. Very similar to toilets on land in other countries. I think it might work better then changing out pumps.

S/V Circe Freeport 36
Sea of Cortez Mx

[sinnerman]

Originally Posted by peghall

Switching from a macerator pump to a diaphragm pump may be the only solution. The Dometic/SeaLand T-Series "SaniPump" is the best one. Cost is about double that of a macerator pump but should end up being less in the long run because it needs very little maintenance (rarely more than a periodic rinse and 2 duckbill valves every couple of years ) and can last for literally decades...the one on one of my own boats was 11 yrs old when I sold the boat and still going strong.

SeaLand T-Series Pump at Defender


--Peggie

I wish I had know about this pump before. I would have installed one of these on my boat instead of the (Raritan) macerator. It would have saved me HOURS in plumbing work trying to connect/align the threaded macerator to the holding tank tee-off to the overboard thru hull. With this pump I could have simply installed the pump at a convenient location and connected everything with the sani- hose...
arghhh

[jackrabbit59]

I agree with the NO toilet paper. For toilet paper waste I installed a feminine products disposal box by the toilet. I buy the wax coated paper bags for it. That way no plastic bag disposal problems. I can just toss the whole bag overboard when at sea. Almost 6 years and no problems with the macerator pump on the toilet or the macerator pump that empties the tank. I learned way back in my RV days that toilet paper turns to rock if it is allowed to dry at the top or sides of the tank. It sticks to the insides of the tank, builds up over time and causes backups when trying to empty the tank. Living in Mexico they have the same rules in all the bathrooms here.

[bstreep]

A budget bidet seat instead of toilet paper. Way WAY better.

[fnq grumpy]

We've had our issues and I have many more Jabsco macerator pumps than any sane person needs. Fail, replace with new, take old one to workshop, strip looks perfect, put back together and works perfectly. Good day for pump sales people. In the process of stripping, I discovered that the main shaft goes right through and has a screw slotted head on motor end. So I have changed the orientation, having enough room, so the pump is vertical with motor up so I can put a drill with a screwdriver blade in it into the slot and spin the pump. Only done it once when pump tripped and still going year later. Also allows you to empty the tank and system when you have a failed pump and a full tank. Makes life much easier. Hard to find but I carry a Shurflo macerator pump as a spare now. Jabsco pumps must be aware of their fate in the big darkness (rubbish tip) have magically behaved for 2 years now. I would also endorse fresh water flush, much less trouble

[Bowdrie]

Does anybody even make a REAL macerating pump?
Something with a real motor, (not an automotive wiper motor,) and with a bronze housing and bronze insides?
I think not, it all seems to be plastic junk.
A real macerator ought to be able to grind-up paper towels as easily as a square of Kleenex.
Peghall, you know the big-shots at Raritan, tell them we need a free-standing macerator pump built on the Crown motor/macerator, something worthy of the name.
If I had a bigger boat I would use an Edson "gallon a stroke" manual pump, the one with the 3' handle and a 12" diaphragm.

[NYSail]

Just to throw my experience in here…. On my beneteau 423 had macerators for each head. They both were original at 13 year and they started to go. What I found is that the macerators connected to the top of the holding tanks with a pvc pick-up tube glued in place . In my case the pick-up tubes were both ill fitted and leaked air putting a strain on the pumps…… I imagine if I relied on the pumps I would have burned them out. I removed and re-glued and set them and had no issue. Subsequently removed both, reconfigured tank outputs and went to gravity discharge. Less to go wrong.

Good luck
Greg

[SailingHarmonie]

Having replaced a number of failed macerated pumps on clients boats, I will double down on the SeaLand diaphragm pump. It’s actually a piston pump, but no matter. They do the job, for years.

The failure on the macerators is almost never the moving parts in the pump housing, but the shaft seal. And the cause of most shaft seal failures is not running dry, but rather hair wrapping round the shaft.

A regular maintenance program of replacing the seals before they fail would greatly extend the lifespan of the pump.

[boatpoker]

ShurFlo macerator pump, 9 years old, no problem.

[MVDarlin]

One way to solve dry running the macerator is to install a timer switch like those used on a bath fan. $15 at most hardware stores.

[sinnerman]

Originally Posted by MVDarlin

One way to solve dry running the macerator is to install a timer switch like those used on a bath fan. $15 at most hardware stores.

I installed a Raritan macerator on my boat. In addition I installed a Raritan macerator control unit (separate item) for the pump.

The control unit is always powered on, and does two things:

- It periodically "jogs" the pump running it for a second or two to make sure that the macerator blades do not rust in-place / seize to the housing

- When operating the macerator, it monitors the macerator motor electrical load to determine if it is actually pumping liquid and if not, turns off the pump to prevent running the motor "dry".

The unit is small, less than the size of a pack of cigarettes and is installed in the electrical panel.

Six wires: two for the power, two for the pump ( + & -) , and two for the macerator manual on/off pushbutton switch.

Example:
https://www.hodgesmarine.com/rarsmc1...yABEgIRBfD_BwE

I see it as cheap insurance to extending the life of the macerator and avoiding the horrors of having to replace it.....

my two cents

cheers.

[BlueH2Obound]

Sinnerman, that looks like a really nice addition to a macerator pump! We (I) burned up several over the past two years by leaving the macerator pump on too long . . .

[malbert73]

Personally, I find the "no flushed toilet paper" rule gross. Putting TP with human waste in a bin open to air emits a smell and just seems wrong.

We've had a Raritan Elegance for 7 years, and never had a clog with flushing TP and human waste. We do have a "flush after 2-3 wipes maximum" rule.

But, this thread has given me the AHA moment that draining my holding tank offshore can be done with a non-macerating pump, of course. So when it dies, I'll put a diaphragm pump instead....

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by malbert73

Personally, I find the "no flushed toilet paper" rule gross. Putting TP with human waste in a bin open to air emits a smell and just seems wrong.

We've had a Raritan Elegance for 7 years, and never had a clog with flushing TP and human waste. We do have a "flush after 2-3 wipes maximum" rule.

I am 100% with you on that!

My Raritan Elegance has never clogged with anything other than scale in the hose and I use the good regular TP.

[CaptTom]

A little late to the party, I just noticed this thread.

Some good suggestions already, but I notice one is missing: Put the macerator above the holding tank. Yes, you do need to make sure it's a self-priming model. Not all are. But it helps solve two problems with the OP's existing setup.

First and most obviously, you don't have a tankful of waste coming at you when you disconnect the macerator to repair or replace it.

But I suspect not having it soaking in that waste 24/7 also helps keep it moving freely.

Another possible benefit is you can use hard PVC pipe for all the fittings below the "water" line of the tank, up to the macerator. From there you can "T" to a deck pump-out. With no waste sitting in flexible hoses all the time, you have less problem with hoses getting permeated and starting to stink.