Disconnecting & connecting propane appliance

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by pcmm

No joints are allowed inside the boat aside from the connection to the appliance, so this eliminates any Tee's and copper is frowned upon due to work hardening and fatigue cracks. the normal thing to use for plumbing the propane is this:

FireBoy - Xintex LPG Propane Gas Supply Line Hose

No, we cannot use a hose like that for plumbing a boat or caravan, not in Australia or NewZealand.

Im not aware of any other type of 'line' material other than copper.

[HopCar]

From your description of the thread looking like garden hose, it makes me think you have a hose that is commonly used to connect large propane tanks to camp stoves. It is the same thread as on the disposable one pound propane cans. It shouldn't need sealant or tape. It is o-ring sealed.

If you do need sealant, I recommend Leak Lock. It will seal all fluids and gasses commonly found on boats. If you have a moonshine still aboard, it won't work on that.
Leak Lock by Highside INC.

[IslandHopper]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I have a copy of the same standards in paper form posted to me a few weeks ago after seeking advice on what I have to do to ensure my system is meets the standards. You can have 'joins' but any joins 'must' be accessible and serviceable. I could not see anything requiring stainless steel cylinders

The frustrating thing is that whilst all of Australia and New Zealand use the same standards, the various state authorities then seem to add their own interpretation to them. In Tasmania, it's the Mines Department, and the gas fitter gets them to come and inspect the gas fitout before issuing the approval.

As far as joins goes, that was badly worded on my part, I was just pointing out on my install there are none, not that the standards prohibit them as you point out.

Stainless cylinders are just an extravagance on my part , again just describing my installation.

The point been that my install incorporates the 3/8" lagged tubbing which is the standard here and the whole system is certified to the relevant local standards, and was installed by a certified gas fitter which is also a requirement in Qld, you can't install it yourself and just have it inspected and certified.

Also in Qld not just any old garden variety gas fitter can fit and certify them, they need to carry an extra insurance component to do the work on boats, most don't so finding one is a huge pain in the butt unless your close to major population areas.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by IslandHopper

As far as joins goes, that was badly worded on my part, I was just pointing out on my install there are none, not that the standards prohibit them as you point out.

Stainless cylinders are just an extravagance on my part , again just describing my installation.

The point been that my install incorporates the 3/8" lagged tubbing which is the standard here and the whole system is certified to the relevant local standards, and was installed by a certified gas fitter which is also a requirement in Qld, you can't install it yourself and just have it inspected and certified.

Also in Qld not just any old garden variety gas fitter can fit and certify them, they need to carry an extra insurance component to do the work on boats, most don't so finding one is a huge pain in the butt unless your close to major population areas.

If you don't mind me asking what did it cost you? I've been quoted $1400 just for the fitter to connect the tanks, stove and organise the Mines department to expect it.

[IslandHopper]

PM Sent

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

If you don't mind me asking what did it cost you? I've been quoted $1400 just for the fitter to connect the tanks, stove and organise the Mines department to expect it.

[foufou]

If it is a flare fitting no need for pipe joint compound. On the other hand a very small amount put on with a Q tip never hurt. I prefer Rector Seal or other high end compounds. Foufou

[GordMay]

G2414.10.1 (403.10.1) Pipe joints.
Pipe joints shall be threaded, flanged, brazed or welded. Where nonferrous pipe is brazed, the brazing materials shall have a melting point in excess of 1,000°F (538°C). Brazing alloys shall not contain more than 0.05-percent phosphorus.

G2414.10.2 (403.10.2) Tubing joints.
Tubing joints shall be made with approved gas tubing fittings or be brazed with a material having a melting point in excess of 1,000ºF (538ºC) or made with press-connect fittings complying with ANSI LC-4. Brazing alloys shall not contain more than 0.05-percent phosphorus.

International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings ➥ Chapter 24 - Fuel Gas

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by JiminVA

Delmarrey, are you saying that if I unscrew the hose at the appliance, then when I want to reattach it, I have to completely remove the old hose and run a new hose from the propane locker to the appliance in the galley?

Just to be clear, this is a standard rubber propane hose with threaded metal fittings at each end. the fitting at the appliance was installed with pipe sealant. I am only planning on detaching the connection at the appliance (not the propane locker).

thanks,
Jim

Why are you detaching at the appliance? If the appliance is inside the boat, it just allows LPG to drain inside the boat.

[foufou]

common setup in US is 3/8 pipe at appliance connected to a flare fitting. The flare is the one used to disconnect. If it refuses to come loose try a penetrating lube like WD40 or similar. If that fails try heat after making certain no propane is in the line. And careful with the rubber hose. Good luck. Foufou

[Palarran]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

Why are you detaching at the appliance? If the appliance is inside the boat, it just allows LPG to drain inside the boat.

Wow, how much propane do you think is going to "drain" out of that 3/8" pipe? Should we warn the neighbors?

Honestly I can't understand how hard it is to disconnect this pipe.

[Dymaxion]

Get two open ended wrench's as mentioned. Arrange them on the fitting so that they end up looking like the handles on scissors and you can wrap your hand(s) around them both. Then squeeze like hell and the fitting should unscrew. I'm betting it is a RH thread, but I'm not there. A picture would help, sounds like rubber hose with end fitting joined to copper line with end fitting? The copper side could well be a flare nut. No sealant needed, but I wouldn't use that type of fitting if you plan on undoing frequently.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by meridian28

I'd be interested in info on all these deaths from propane.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Do a web search. Propane can go "BOOM" pretty easily..

[rwidman]

Well, you've gotten so much conflicting advice that you might as well close this forum and find yourself a plumber. Someone who actually knows what he/she is talking about.