Shaft Coupling removal

[Paul Cyre]

I'm going to change my cutlass bearing, and PSS Shaft Seal. I am in need of mentoring here. What is the best way to remove the shaft coupling at the engine, I am looking at the Buck Algonquin Flange puller for this. What is the best way to do this ? Once the coupling is removed is it recommended that it be replaced or reinstalled? Once the PSS seal is removed can the propeller shaft seal be removed without taking off the prop? With a new cutlass bearing installed can the shaft easily be reinstalled. Is there anything special to do or just pull on the shaft. I have good information on removing and replacing the cutlass bearing. Any and all information provided regarding these procedures will be read with great interest.
Thanks in advance

[capngeo]

You don't need no stinkin' puller!

Go get yourself some longer bolts.... about 1 ½ " longer with threads all the way to the head.

Remove the OEM flange bolts, and replace with the longer ones loosen the set screws and spray some penetrating oil on the shaft side flange/shaft joint.

Pull the shaft back (out) about an inch. Take a nut (any nut that's outermost points are less than the diameter of your shaft), sandwich it between your output shaft and the prop shaft; tighten the bolts.... it "should" push the shaft out as you tighten (remember to tighten incrementally on opposing sides); repeat, adding more nuts as you go.

IF the shaft refuses to budge, its time for Rosebud (an acetylene torch). Heat the prop side coupler (try not to burn up your boat) while there is tension on all the bolts. In real difficult couplers, a helper may be required to "tap" on the extreme prop end of the shaft.

in 40 years, this has never failed me... that said, some have been VERY stubborn!

[Bill Seal]

Using this method, if you have a Volvo MD11 or MD17, you just destroyed the $1000 output gear. . Slip the shaft farther back and use the "bridge" part of a steering wheel puller.

[Paul Cyre]

Guys
I must be from the "show me state", can you send me a sketch of the configuration you are talking about?
Regards

[capngeo]

Originally Posted by Bill Seal

Using this method, if you have a Volvo MD11 or MD17, you just destroyed the $1000 output gear. . Slip the shaft farther back and use the "bridge" part of a steering wheel puller.

OK, I'll bite.... HOW? there is zero trust on a gear designed to take thrust.

[capngeo]

Here you go... they used a socket as a spacer instead of a nut, but same idea
https://youtu.be/qM45997JCRI

[fallingeggs]

I had a hard time removing my shaft coupling as well. I posted about it here:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1775303

Hopefully it helps. I have some picture of what I think is being described above. Enjoy!

[Bill Seal]

Originally Posted by capngeo

OK, I'll bite.... HOW? there is zero trust on a gear designed to take thrust.

Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Reverse Gear: 834360 - MarinePartsEurope.com
On this weird tranny, the output flange IS the output gear, and the center is just an aluminum plug. I've rebuilt two of them, and after almost destroying the first, I got this print, and figured how to get them apart.
It doesn't show on this pic, but the prop shaft attaches to the final planetary drum, and the output seal rides on the outside of the drum.
Like I said, weird.