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Old 13-03-2015, 13:54   #16
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

I third the socket between the two faces. Had the same problem a few years ago, been there done that and it worked easy peasey. No flames or torches were needed.
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Old 13-03-2015, 14:43   #17
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

I used nickels, simply add a nickel or two at a time, re-install bolts, tighten evenly, remove, add more nickels, repeat. Takes a little patience, but nothing breaks and can be reused.
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Old 14-03-2015, 10:15   #18
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

something that has`nt been mentioned, is when one tightens set screws tight, or tighter on the coupling, they will go into the shaft a little, hense, expanding the mettle where they contact the shaft, causing the shaft to not move fore/aft! so must be cut out! then the piece must be pressed out, to reuse the coupling! it`s surprising how much hydrolic pressure it takes to remove it...clyde
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Old 14-03-2015, 10:24   #19
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

You could also consider pulling the engine to pull the shaft in. This would also allow you the chance to clean and refurb the engine compartment and maybe replace some older engine mounts.


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Old 15-03-2015, 10:38   #20
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

Shaft is still winning.

Cut out the stuffing box hose so that I can use a 1/4 inch steel plate as the backing plate. Between it, PB Blaster and my brand new MAP torch all I got is a bent piece of steel.

Will leave it under tension with another coating of PB Blaster and come back to give it another try or two over the next week.

In the mean time I will start looking into cutting it off and finding a new shaft / coupler.

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Old 15-03-2015, 10:53   #21
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

If you can get an angle grinder in there with a cut off wheel I say cut it. A new flange is not that expensive and after bending the plate I would assume that the old flange is bent also. You don't want to reinstall a rusty, bent flange anyway.
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Old 15-03-2015, 11:38   #22
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Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

Aww, that sucks!
Your sure that the socket is small enough to only push on the shaft end.
And if that's mild steel for the support plate, go stainless if you can.
I've used areokroil for a penetrant and has worked wonders, http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil.../dp/B000F09CEA.

Set screws out I'm assuming.
Rap on the coupler a few times to set up vibration in the part ,helps the penetrate do its job.
Probably, your going to need a coupler after this tough job.
Yes, sometimes it's got to be cut off as well.
Sorry friend.
Don't think you'll be able to just cut the coupler off its very thick at the neck, if you cut the shaft, with a cutoff wheel or hack saw it'll go easier


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Old 15-03-2015, 13:14   #23
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

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Originally Posted by Boatyarddog View Post
Aww, that sucks!
Your sure that the socket is small enough to only push on the shaft end.
And if that's mild steel for the support plate, go stainless if you can.
I've used areokroil for a penetrant and has worked wonders, Amazon.com: Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL): Automotive.

Set screws out I'm assuming.
Rap on the coupler a few times to set up vibration in the part ,helps the penetrate do its job.
Probably, your going to need a coupler after this tough job.
Yes, sometimes it's got to be cut off as well.
Sorry friend.
Don't think you'll be able to just cut the coupler off its very thick at the neck, if you cut the shaft, with a cutoff wheel or hack saw it'll go easier


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I believe you are correct. It is only friction holding the flange to the shaft.
Similar to a tapered drill shank. Keeping the pressure on and some sharp raps may do it. Don't look for a little movement when it comes it will be all at once. Heating the flange and hitting the shaft with a blast of CO2 may do it while maintaining the pressure. Pack the shaft in dry ice if you don't what to discharge a fire exstinguisher.

Doing something requiring buying a new shaft sounds like a very last resort.
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Old 15-03-2015, 14:28   #24
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

If you can get a hold of a piece of 1/2 " or 5/8" plate, an inch long piece of 1" round bar, 4 fine thread bolts and nuts and a 3 lb hammer, you might have better luck. Set it up just like you have it now. Once you've got it good and tight, really wack the hub (like you were driving a 20d nail) hard all around, in your first picture it looks like you've plenty of room... should pop out all at once. Heat won't hurt, especially if you're starting from cold. I've had to cut them off before, but they always looked a lot worse than yours does.
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Old 15-03-2015, 20:38   #25
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

I wasn't suggesting the cutting of the shaft. Make a couple of cuts on the coupling parallel to the shaft. Be careful to not score the shaft. With 2 or 3 cuts the pulling will go lots easier. You may use up a couple of cut off wheels.
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Old 15-03-2015, 21:06   #26
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

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Originally Posted by fallingeggs View Post
Hello! I am attempting to remove my prop shaft so that I can replace my worn out looking stuffing box and cutless (stave or cutlass) bearings.

Attachment 98787

I removed the two set screws from the coupling, but nothing moved. So I removed the four bolts holding the coupling to the transmission and now the shaft moves back forth freely, but for only an inch.

It seems my shaft is very well stuck in the coupling. I took some PB Blaster, a rubber mallet and some light taps to it, but no movement. I can see that the set screw holes haven't budged at all.

What do folks think about heating it up? I have a sizable butane torch that should do the job. Then retap with the rubber mallet or pull from the prop.

Anyone have other options?


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Sometimes the iron hub corrodes onto the SS shaft. Corrosion products expand into the available space and make the parts immovable. Heat might move it but the problem you have is there is no room to work or to use a puller. You might get lucky and find that the shaft is held because the set screw(s) upset the metal on the shaft surface. If this is the case you may be able to drill out the threads & just into the shaft surface. Bigger screw later with Never-Seize.

Can you apply tension from the prop end without damaging structure?
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Old 15-03-2015, 23:53   #27
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

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Originally Posted by darylat8750 View Post
I wasn't suggesting the cutting of the shaft. Make a couple of cuts on the coupling parallel to the shaft. Be careful to not score the shaft. With 2 or 3 cuts the pulling will go lots easier. You may use up a couple of cut off wheels.
Nor was I (although that could be the eventual solution). It looks like there's enough room to get an angle grinder in there to split the coupling (parallel to the shaft). A 4 1/2" grinder probably won't go deep enough (though it could give enough stress relief to relax the bind), but if he can get in there with it, a 7" will. The job will go a lot faster with the right disc. 1/16" thick Diablo discs from Home Depot cut much, much faster than the comparable Dewalt discs, a welding supply house will have some that are even better, but more expensive. One must be well supported when using those thin discs, they like to grab in the kerf and shatter if you don't hold them steady. And they throw huge amounts of metal, abrasive, and fiberglass (from the disc itself) particles everywhere, so eye and lung protection, as well as a good vacuum cleanup afterwords are prudent.
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Old 16-03-2015, 00:08   #28
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

..and watch carefully where the stream of glowing particles goes. I have ignited more than one pant leg, not discovering the fire until the heat reached my skin.


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Old 16-03-2015, 01:43   #29
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Re: Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

A thin steel plate rigged to recieve the grinding blast can be a good idea. If you ignite an oil drenched engine room isolation, it could quickly get nasty.


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Old 22-03-2015, 17:58   #30
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Help Needed To Remove Prop Shaft

Success!

The suggestions worked! I got myself a 7.5 amp grinder / cutoff tool and a 1100 watt inverter. With these any the boat's battery that I hauled out of winter storage, I cut four slits in the coupling and the shaft slide out after some more wrenching and hammering.




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