Diagram for all thruhulls and safety eqpt

[ArmySailor]

Hi everybody!

As I've upgraded from a 20 foot Newport to a 28 foot Shannon I'm overwhelmed with the amount of space and "things going on" in general.

So to help me I designed the attached document - it's laminated and stuck to the bulkhead in the boat. I may not keep it there forever if I learn the boat like the back of my hand, or maybe I will, for guests.

Most critically, I wanted to make sure I knew the location of all safety equipment and thru hulls with/without seacocks, which still honestly freak me out. (I know, I'll get used to holes in my boat)

I have some major equipment locations labeled, but didn't want to get into the weeds, really, with every item. Just the big ones.

To make this, I simply downloaded the best high resolution diagram of my vessel, then laid it on powerpoint. From there, I just drew and typed. Easy peasy!

Just wanted to know if anybody could improve on this, or make recommendations. Thanks sailing team!

-Gene

[Mirage35]

Great idea - I'm adding it to my "to-do" list.

[Stu Jackson]

My boat manual included this information. Yours didn't?

[hellosailor]

Thru-hulls without seacocks? That might bear some attention.

Meanwhile, pick up a pack or two of damage control plugs, tapered wood plugs, at any chandlery. Then you get a 1/4" drill bit and drill a hole across the top of each one, and run some paracord through them. Tie one onto each thru-hull fitting, so that when and if you need to plug one, the plug will be there waiting for you.

Eventually you will remember where everything has been stowed, no harm in having a map that can also be used when you have guests on board. If you wanted to pick up a PTouch label maker and put a simple label on each compartment to show what was in it...hey, anyone who doesn't like it, can get off the boat.

And you can have fun with that. Label one of them "Armory, keep out" or "Condom storage only". Labels are cheap enough.

[ArmySailor]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Thru-hulls without seacocks? That might bear some attention.

Meanwhile, pick up a pack or two of damage control plugs, tapered wood plugs, at any chandlery. Then you get a 1/4" drill bit and drill a hole across the top of each one, and run some paracord through them. Tie one onto each thru-hull fitting, so that when and if you need to plug one, the plug will be there waiting for you.

Eventually you will remember where everything has been stowed, no harm in having a map that can also be used when you have guests on board. If you wanted to pick up a PTouch label maker and put a simple label on each compartment to show what was in it...hey, anyone who doesn't like it, can get off the boat.

And you can have fun with that. Label one of them "Armory, keep out" or "Condom storage only". Labels are cheap enough.

Thanks for the reply! The 2 thruhulls without seacocks are depth and speed. See attached photo for what I'm talking about. It's a plastic plug thing.

I guess I don't understand how you'd fit a seacock over those sensors, I will look into it though.

I think I'm going to pull the speed and replace it with the plastic filler plug sitting next to it. The speed is broken anyway - I believe a lift strap broke off some of the pieces that spin. Wah wah.

There is, in fact, a wooden bung next to each seacock (and next to the two holes without seacocks) that are tethered as you describe. I believe that is very prudent. That was on my "to-do" list for any boat that I'd own. But it was already done for me on this one : )

Thanks again!

[hellosailor]

No, there wouldn't be seacocks on the instrument fittings. I'm not sure how may of us would call them thru-hulls, even though they go through the hull, since they are semi-permanently plugged. The depthsounder transducer usually is permanently installed from the outside unless some saboteur tries to unscrew it from inside the boat. The speed transducer usually can be quickly released and brought inside the boat for routine cleaning, they often are fouled in only a week or two. Newer ones have a rubber flap that closes the hole while you are doing that, but almost all come with a plastic dummy that you insert into the hole, to close it off firmly while the speed sensor is in the boat being cleaned.
This is something to be practiced (OK, have a friend with a cell phone and a pump standing by(G) until you get comfortable with it. You should be able to pull the speed sensor in with one hand, insert the dummy plug with the other, and something like a pint or quart of water is all that you'll take it during the swap. If you are not using the boat daily, it is a good idea to get comfortable with this and leave the paddlewheel in the boat so it stays clean. Critters love to nest in it, and then the speed reading is worthless.

If your boat came with bungs, that's a good sign, the PO was paying attention to the little things.

[JPA Cate]

Hi ArmySailor,

Those paddlewheels are easily replaced, if that's the only part that's broken on the knot log.

Where we sail, we get coral growth on ours. Jim keeps a small tub of white vinegar in the locker with access to the paddlewheel, and we periodically soak it in the vinegar to get rid of calcareous deposits on it. We also paint our paddlewheel with bottom paint, using a very small brush.

When the boat is going to be hauled, either remove the paddlewheel first, or, place external indicators where the straps should go to avoid it. No guarantees with the 2nd method, but the first depends on your remembering it.

A.

[Captaink73]

I did the same thing. I also added another diagram for the fresh water system and a instruction sheet (complete with diagram) for a Jabsco marine toilet that's hanging in the head. I got tired of "dad how do I flush the toilet again?"

[UNCIVILIZED]

You're head's in the right place with this document, though it could use some tuning. Specifically, on this particular diagram list only the seacocks/through hulls, including where exactly each is located. Including what part of the boat they're in, & inside of which compartment in that space. Along with what they're for. Such as head discharge, sink drain, etc.

This way if there's ever a flooding problem on the boat, it's dirt simple to see where any penetrations of the hull's skin are, & to go directly to all of them in order to check for problems.

I recommend that every boat have such a diagram, with one copy permanantly posted at the nav desk, & another in the ship's equipment/instructions manual binder.
That way, with the one over the nav desk, anyone who comes onboard will instantly know where to look to check for problems. And this includes folks who may be attempting to prevent your boat from sinking when you're not there. So try & orient your emergency diagrams for them, & for crew who are completely new to the boat (& to boating in general, so use layman's termnology if possible).

You can do the exact same thing with a diagram for emergency equipment. Just keep it as simple as possible. Since during periods of high stress folks tend to get tunnel vision, & their problem solving & data intake skills diminish. Thus anything that you can do to make things simpler tends to be the most helpful, & produce the most successful results.

Also keep in mind that most emergencies happen at night, when lighting is poor at best (submerged batteries equals no lighting). So diagrams with large print help people to see the important info better. Ditto regarding labeling any compartments to show what's in them; be it a through hull, or emergency gear. As if you go onboard any commercial vessel you'll notice that all of the signs for such equipment tend to be large, have a simple message, & be in brightly contrasting colors. For exactly the above noted reasons.

So BRAVO on your idea for this.

One other thing to keep in mind with regards to flooding, & or emergencies, is that the fittings & their labels may be immersed, due to water in the boat (Perhaps being knee deep or better). So try to create your diagrams, & systems labels with this in mind, along with the fact that folks will probably be searching for said fittings or gear via a weak flashight beam. Thus anything that you can do to make things easier to find (within reason) can make a BIG difference.

You can even do such things as to put brightly colored handles on all valves, along with small swatches of reflective tape. Either the SOLAS type that you see on lifejackets & harnesses, etc. Or small patches of similar material that you can find at bicycle supply shops, which cyclists use to enhance their visibility. I stick the stuff all over my bike, even on the wheel rims, as well as on my helmet, etc.

PS: In such diagrams, be sure to also include things like the prop shaft location, ditto the rudder post, cockpit drains, etc. As you know where they're located, & to check them, but not all of your crew or guests will.
Also, the comment about tying soft wooden plugs to each through hull is a good one. But also keep plenty of spare ones in your damage control kit.

Hope that helps.

[KeithMidgette]

I'm glad you posted. I have the same placard posted on the back of the head hatch. Your placard is much better organized than mine, I need to clean mine up. And, I forgot to add a couple of things like the transducer.

[KeithMidgette]

Good gouge!

[mannix2]

You are right on target with an inventory layout. I started to forget where I put some of the things that I knew that I had acquired. Something had to be done! Attached is my “Inventory Layout” the boat is like one big English muffin, lots of nooks and crannies to fill with “stuff,” albeit, necessary stuff. I also did an inventory spreadsheet. (Fair warning, it is tough to keep current in the heat of repair work.)

Since buying my 42 ft. trawler, I have often thought that there should be a little Yosemite Sam figure outside of the broker’s office with the note “If you are not taller than this sign, you should not buy a boat.” I am 5' 6" and there are many things aboard that I cannot reach. Most of the thru-hulls are examples. Their placement “may,” repeat, “may” have made sense when the boat was nothing but an open tub being glassed. But, after sticking the rest of the boat together, and as subsequent owners, installed or relocated amenities like HVACs , hot water tanks, battery chargers, accumulators, et al. they become increasingly difficult to reach at all, let alone exercise every few months. Even many of my tall friends cannot reach some items. And, don’t get me started on where the builders put the solenoid valves for the VacuFlush heads.

I admit, that last fall when I had the boat out for a “bottom job” I could have had some of them relocated. But, to be honest, I was more concerned with other repair issues and did not plan the haul out as well as I could have. Oh well, hopefully there will be a “next time” opportunity.

[ArmySailor]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

My boat manual included this information. Yours didn't?

Boat...man...ual? Lol. I sure wish I had one!

I have about every manual for every part...engine/sail/VHF/etc but nothing from the boat builder. They only made 51 of these suckers back in the late 70's. Each slightly different :/

[ArmySailor]

Originally Posted by KeithMidgette

I'm glad you posted. I have the same placard posted on the back of the head hatch. Your placard is much better organized than mine, I need to clean mine up. And, I forgot to add a couple of things like the transducer.

Yours looks good too. I'm going to see if I can tweak mine. I think the biggest difference that jumps out at me is that I tried to focus on those things I couldn't immediately lay eyes on. e.g. you listed life ring, to me that's THERE on the stern rail. I wanted to know where I need to start digging under cushions or sinks, etc.

But yeah. Great stuff. Thanks for posting yours!

-Gene

[DameGravey]

In Australia (and probably the rest of the world) A safety equipment location chart, that includes all through hulls, is a requirement for all yachts that compete in coastal/ocean racing. It must be displayed in a prominent position and be durable.
We keep G-whizz at Category 3 safety standard (Offshore races across open water, most of which is relatively protected or close to shore lines). Not because we do much coastal racing, but because it is a discipline to have the right gear for the type of sailing we do. The boat is subjected to a safety equipment audit annually.
For all the reasons, and probably then some, a chart makes good sense.
G-whizz's chart attached.