1970 Stortriss Mk 1 Restoration

[MrCov]

Hello there! I recently purchased a 1970 Stortriss Mk 1 for a steal. Unfortunately the previous owner was not kind to the boat, but luckily I am set on restoring it to a very good condition! I was very surprised to learn that the boat is Swedish in origin, as I live in Kansas of all places, so pretty darn cool it see it 4000 miles away from home!

It needs quite a bit of work, here is the current list:

Complete sanding of old paint and rust removal from keel, new paint
new interior - it is currently bare
new electronics system (has solar panel and some lights, but wring is extremely poorly done)
new bow window
window gasket replacement on all windows
new mast step
other various hardware replacements

I was hoping you all could help me track down a new bow window as the current one is cracked, as well as a mast step for the boat as the current one is very bad and doesn't even allow for a pin to hold the mast to the base.

you can see the bow window and mast step in 3rd and 4th pictures

Happy sailing!

link to album 1970 Stortriss - Album on Imgur

[Aswayze]

Very cool boat!

I am in Kansas as well so it's good to hear I am not the only one around here playing with a trailer sailor. I am in KC basing my boat out of Smithville Lake, where abouts are you at?

On the window, that's nothing high tech, just remove it and go cut a new one out of plexi and you're all set. The rubber surround material will be available somewhere, just find a profile that matches and buy it by the foot. You might shop the sales and clearance sections and see if you can manage to score an opening port light instead though, it would help keep the cabin cooler with the cross breeze particularly since it looks like you have no foredeck hatch.

I may have a mast step that will work for you left over from my ill fated mizzen mast on my boat.

[Razoo]

Windows are for glass shops. Have them come out and cut to fit. They'll also have the right runner and sealer for around the glass. Had 2 of mine done for $75 total.

[Aswayze]

Night be able to adapt the compression post from my old mizzen as well.

Glass shop is a decent plan as well! I am a bit of a default do it yourselfer and frequently forget to even consider that sort of thing.

[Razoo]

@Aswayze .... I spent $240 one time doing port glass as a do it yourselfer. Bought all the stuff and did all the work to find out from a glass guy doing the neighbors boat that he could have done mine for $150. Glass shops buy everything in bulk so most of the time they're cheaper than doing it yourself.

[Aswayze]

Makes sense, I would still aim for an opening port if possible, an entirely enclosed front of the boat would make for some warm sleeping at anchor anywhere south of Sweden!

[MrCov]

Originally Posted by Aswayze

Very cool boat!

I am in Kansas as well so it's good to hear I am not the only one around here playing with a trailer sailor. I am in KC basing my boat out of Smithville Lake, where abouts are you at?

On the window, that's nothing high tech, just remove it and go cut a new one out of plexi and you're all set. The rubber surround material will be available somewhere, just find a profile that matches and buy it by the foot. You might shop the sales and clearance sections and see if you can manage to score an opening port light instead though, it would help keep the cabin cooler with the cross breeze particularly since it looks like you have no foredeck hatch.

I may have a mast step that will work for you left over from my ill fated mizzen mast on my boat.

I'm in Lawrence myself and sail out of Clinton or Perry depending on where I want to sail that day lol, but grew up on the KC area!

I'll get some dimensions later of the base of the mast to see of your mizzen mast step could fit, which would be very nice if it does! One less part for me to scour the Internet for!

As for the window, I'll probably stick with a plexiglas window as I have access to a CNC machine and can mill it out using that. I'll have to find a good rubber seal for it though. You're right that it will be musty in there, but there is a ~4" hole on the roof of the cabin that is currently covered by a little cap you can see in 4th picture, so maybe I can make a vent to fit that hole that will help the musty-ness? Perhaps a computer fan or something to help with the ventalation as well.

Also thank you for all the replies! I'm sure I'm going to be needing you guy's help many more times for this build lol.

[MrCov]

Here's the mast bottom! I believe all I need is the inner connection that fits inside the hole, as it appears that the pivoting bracket part of the mast step is in good condition, its just the part that fits in the hole on the bottom of the mast that needs replacing.

Dimensions are about 2.75" wide x 4" long with inner hole diameter about 1-7/8"... 6mm hole is .5" from the bottom and 1-5/8" from the front.

[Aswayze]

Ah I see...

Clearly the workings of the Hill William...

Option 1 would be to rebuild the adapter binkus on the bottom of the mast then fit your current mast shoe to your mast In reality that would not be too tough, you are welcome to use my TIG welder and just stitch on a section of 316 stainless tubing to your current mast foot then just screw it to the base of the mast. From there, you just use the pivot pin as your quick connect when removing the mast.

Option 2 would be to switch to mine which I am not sure would get your any further along since it would essentially have the same issue of not really fitting your current mast.

Option 3 would be checking to see if my extra mizzen is as long or longer than your current mast then cutting it down to match your boat since then you would have a mast and mast step that matched. It's not really doing anything so you are welcome to it if you want. This most certainly result in likely having to redo some of your running rigging.

There are any number of vents that will fit in that hole many of which are fitted with solar powered fans. Those will help but nothing like a hatch or opening port on the bow if you choose to stay out at anchor in the summer. If you just plan to day sail, don't sweat it (literally) but if you plan to use your micro cruiser as a cruiser then at least be on the look out for an opening port.

[MrCov]

Originally Posted by Aswayze

Ah I see...

Clearly the workings of the Hill William...

Option 1 would be to rebuild the adapter binkus on the bottom of the mast then fit your current mast shoe to your mast In reality that would not be too tough, you are welcome to use my TIG welder and just stitch on a section of 316 stainless tubing to your current mast foot then just screw it to the base of the mast. From there, you just use the pivot pin as your quick connect when removing the mast.

Option 2 would be to switch to mine which I am not sure would get your any further along since it would essentially have the same issue of not really fitting your current mast.

Option 3 would be checking to see if my extra mizzen is as long or longer than your current mast then cutting it down to match your boat since then you would have a mast and mast step that matched. It's not really doing anything so you are welcome to it if you want. This most certainly result in likely having to redo some of your running rigging.

There are any number of vents that will fit in that hole many of which are fitted with solar powered fans. Those will help but nothing like a hatch or opening port on the bow if you choose to stay out at anchor in the summer. If you just plan to day sail, don't sweat it (literally) but if you plan to use your micro cruiser as a cruiser then at least be on the look out for an opening port.

Good idea on the tubing! I believe my neighbor has a welder so I might be able to get him to help me, if not I'll definitely be in contact with you. I think that is my best bet to get a good fit on the mast, and will ensure that I get that pin hole spacing aligned properly.

And I definitely agree on the hatch. I'll probably fit a window for now since I plan on using it for mainly day sailing and possibly storing some cool beverages in the cabin but if I see a hatch that fits (for cheap enough) I'll snatch it up and replace the window.

[Razoo]

Originally Posted by Aswayze

Makes sense, I would still aim for an opening port if possible, an entirely enclosed front of the boat would make for some warm sleeping at anchor anywhere south of Sweden!

That $240 was for doing 3 open/close port windows.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, MrCov.

[MrCov]

Well it appears that the boat project has hit a snag. I cant find anywhere to rent out boat stands to paint the boat. I can buy boat stands for $1000 and get half the money back when I return it, but that's just money that I don't want to spend since I can access almost the entire boat except for 4 spots where it touches the trailer.

Which btw, what do you guys think of just leaving those spots unpainted? you can see where the boat touches the trailer in the above pictures which would be below the water-line so no one would see it lol. And there still is paint on those spots, its just I do not know how old that paint is. Or do you guys have any other ideas of how I can prop it up?

On a side note, the rudder is almost completely sanded! all I need to do it wait for the wood filler to dry and re-sand and stain. The previous owner had used gate hardware which was rusting off. Needless to say those have been replaced. Here's some pics

[Aswayze]

Firstly, don't try to make this too complicated. Check with Perry Lake Yacht Club, I know for a fact there are some stands sitting around in their yard that would love to have a job for an afternoon.

We paint our Dawsons by making use of the no two trailers are the same system. I paint all the stuff I can reach on my trailer, Stagg paints all the stuff he can reach on his, then we switch and viola, we get the rest. Go find someone with a Victoria 18 or some such somewhat similar boat and bum a trailer for a day and you'll be all set.

Tiller work is good fun! Try to make whatever you replace the gate hinges with pretty substantial. Rudder breakage can be a real drag when things are kicking along. I towed Staggs boat 20 some odd miles up Kentucky Lake after his rudder failed:


Yes, more previous owner hillbilly repairs...