Viking, the fittings do fit right into the bottles. It goes in directly after the valve where the normal connection would have gone. The the regulator
screws directly into the electric
valve and the hose onto the regulator
There are detectors that have a further connection to run a bilge blower as well.
I have a set of two tanks
. A solinoid valve on each, a regulator after each, then tee'd together into the single
main gas line. The electric
valves can be switched off from the Galley
switch board as two seperate tanks
. so we run one tank and when it is empty, switch over to the other tank. When we leave the boat, the tanks are switched off from the galley
. If a fire starts in the galley, the tank swtiches can be easily reached to shut off the gas. If gas is detected, then the tanks switch off and the bilge blower starts up till the detector stops the alarm
. The tanks do not switch back on however.
I have a twin sensor detector. One detector is down in the engine
room bilge and one is directly under the gas oven
bilge area. The bilge under the gas oven
can not ever get wet. If it does, we are in rather seriouse trouble and gas will be my last problem. the engine room sensor is a difficult one. As Gord said, bilges are NOT the best location and this sensor has already been wet from a pipe failure from the saltwater intake and washing water
from a hose and now does not work. It needs to be replaced. The problem is, the bilge in this area is something like 6ft down and is the lowest point in the boat and all other bilge areas drain to this point. Of course, the gas line runs through the entire boat, so if there is a leak, then gas will also go to this point. What I intend to do in the future is to mount the new sensor in a plastic water proof box with large holes cut in the bottom of it. This should allow water to rise but as air pressure in the box will stop water from entering, I hope it will stop the sensor from getting wet and will certainly stop water splashing around from getting over it.