What Router Bit also is self drilling?

[Clamdigger]

I have to cut out frozen deck fittings off a 22 ft fiberglass deck. I can't be outside and inside at the same time to hold the nut and turn the screwdriver or bolt head. So I'm electing to just try and cut the fittings off the deck by going around them with a router type bit in a drill. Since it is a Mcgregor 22 the fiberglass seems to be only 1/4th " thick. I tried to 'caveman pry' out some but that does'nt work.

I thought I recalled some years ago seeing on TV a 'drill bit tipped router type bit' that was supposed to be good at cutting sideways through most any material. I figured if any of you folks know what I'm referring to you could direct me to it at home depot.

I'm keeping the mast and rigging as that's salvageable. The boat was not stored properly on the trailer (swing keel)and I had to SHOVEL the debris out of the cockpit and off the top of the boat AFTER I cut down the mini forest growing in the cockpit! This was one of those boat's the owners just 'threw away into the back of their yard' 15 years ago and never went back to it. Shame, I could have probably restored the boat to sailing condition 10 years back.

Seems everything was 5200'ed in place as far as the fittings go. I figured it would be easiest for me to just cut everything out and then work on the pieces at home when I have time.

[Sailmonkey]

What you're talking about is a rotoZip. They're next to useless on fiberglass after a few inches though.
Best bet is a cordless drill with a spade bit and a sawzall. Use the drill to open a hole and the sawzall to go around the salvageable piece.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[meridian28]

I've used vicegrips to hold the nuts belowdecks.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[jimbunyard]

Vise-grips are useful in that situation...

[Cheechako]

If you are scrapping the hull and just want the hard ware off.. a small circular saw is fast! a trim saw or 7.25"

[model 10]

You will need a carbide bit. These last a good while in fiberglass.

[ctl411]

Center cutting end mill would work in the router.

[sailjumanji]

Originally Posted by meridian28

I've used vicegrips to hold the nuts belowdecks.

Ditto. If it is too far from the wall to stop it from turning as well, just tape a dowel to the handle that is long enough to not clear the wall. If that makes sense.

If it is over a bilge - or behind a bulkhead or in some other compartment you don't want it to drop in after the nut comes off - tie a line to the vice grips.


Oh, I now see that you are scraping the hull. Sawsall would be the tool I would use.

[John_Trusty]

You probably know, but it bears repeating for anyone else reading the post. When you saw or grind through all that fiberglass, wear a dust mask, or better, a full respirator with good filters. Those glass particles you'll be breaking up will form a fine cloud, and you'll live with whatever you breathe in forever.

[roverhi]

Saber Saw or Sawzall with a carbide blade/bit. Steel blades will dull very quickly cutting fiberglass. Here's a Sawzall Blade.
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-725349...abre+saw+blade

I'd go with a saber saw but if you wanted to use a router, here's a bit that might work.
Shop Bosch 1/8-in Solid Carbide Straight Bit at Lowes.com

[exMaggieDrum]

One of my fav go-to tools is the oscillating saw. Mine is a Bosch Multi-X. Unbelievably useful on a boat, and at home. It will do plunge cuts like what you want, especially 1/4" glass. Extremely useful in cutting out for panels on flush surfaces as you have total control and can get the corners square (or whatever). You can get a variety of blades for many uses. Very useful in cutting off bolts and studs to size too. Carbide blades available.

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MX25EC-2...N%3DB004HKCGQK

I took mine off the boat to use at home and then immediately needed it again on the boat.

[jeepbluetj]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

One of my fav go-to tools is the oscillating saw.

+1 on this. Use vicegrips, impact, etc... to remove the bolts (or cut them off with a grinder if you're scrapping the boat). Then use the oscillating tool to remove the fitting by cutting UNDER the fitting through the bedding compound.

[Clamdigger]

Thanks folks for the above replies. The boat's a health hazard inside black mold, etc so I'm not going inside it, so no visegrips. There's no way to get power to the boat to run electrical tools. So I'm using a portable drill and now have to see about a portable saber saw with carbide blades. The MultiX saw sounds good but I'm trying to keep from buying any tools as the parts coming off are $200 worth to me. I appreciate the reminder to use safety gear as I was'nt focused on that aspect (though I always wear sunglasses, long sleeves, pants, hat when working around a boat because of the fiberglass dust. The Roto Zip bit was what I had referenced initially, and it's too bad it won't work long enough on fiberglass, because it's probably the cheapest route for me. I'm taking HEAVY DUTY medicine right now because I contracted Lyme Disease REAL BAD and so I have to work early morning or late evening on it because I can't be out in the Sunlight for extended periods even covered up. I'm going to try and borrow the needed tools this week because it has finally stopped raining here in East Central NJ!