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Old 02-04-2010, 19:04   #61
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Originally Posted by IceMan View Post
Daddle,
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I thought that also until a Boeing aircraft machinist told me that the proper drill speed
Heh heh. Have fun with that. Seen the cooling they use? Got that with your hand drill?
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Old 02-04-2010, 19:13   #62
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Originally Posted by Highlander40 View Post
For over 35 years I have worked and then owned a machine shop and I have never seen any charts hanging around.
I mean on a label on the drill press itself. Most will have two data labels; one translating the belt/pulley position to bit-speed and one is a table of speed vs material.

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Old 02-04-2010, 20:37   #63
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I'm not so into it as IceMan
Nick,
I'm not all that into it. My father in law is the machiest and the only reason I'm looking into all this is because of the previous owners of my boat(spelt, IDIOTS!) put stainless and or anything with threads into the mast and boom without anything on the fasteners and they all break when I try to remove them. I don't want lots and lots of holes all over everything so I designed a jig that will allow me to drill through the center of the screws and bolts, then retap the hole to remove the remaining metal in the threads to reuse the same holes. My knowledge in this area is self preservation and sanity.
WD
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Old 08-04-2010, 18:46   #64
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the master mechanic in the shop where I was briefly a grease monkey said you only need two tools, a hammer & a bigger hammer
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Old 08-04-2010, 19:37   #65
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Hammerhead screwdrivers.

I worked with a guy in Taiwan several years ago who had these Hammerhead screwdrivers. Simple tool with a neat innovation. I bought a set the first chance I got.

First off all, very high quality. But aside from that, the shaft goes all the way through the handle. When it comes out of the handle there is a hex.

So if you're one of those who pounds on the handle end of a screwdriver (admit it, you do), this thing will take it and nobody will see the scars in the handle. I have found that hex to be VERY handy in getting stubborn screws to turn. A real time and effort saver which lets me carry less tools.

On painted or rusted sloted screws, I tap the hardened tip thru the slot for a good bite (read clean out), then drive the tip down into the slot with a few taps, then crank the handle. If it needs persuasion I can put a wrench or socket on the hex.

Like I said. Simple tool with a handy innovation.
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:10   #66
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Wouldn't be without.............

............a cheap paintbrush gaffa taped to a 12" stick


Great for cleaning up in hard to reach places and without bashing the surrounding area - being on a stick means loads of awkward places fall more easily into reach...........and good for yer back
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:53   #67
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WD40

Maybe off topic a bit...someone mentioned it....

DON't use WD40 on tools...or anything else that's likely to come in contact with water...they WILL rust.

WD40 is hydrophilic (attracts water)...better to use a lanolin based spray like INOX which is hydrophobic (repels water)..

If you have rusty tools....power wire brush them and then spray with INOX and they will stay looking good for years....
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:33   #68
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... If you have rusty tools....power wire brush them and then spray with INOX and they will stay looking good for years....
I understand "Inox" to be synonomous with Stainless-Steel.
To what do you refer?
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Old 09-04-2010, 14:30   #69
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INOX

Yes Gord...inoxidable..

But seriously INOX is an Australian made product that really works !

I threw out my WD40 when I discovered this stuff !

www.inox-mx3.com
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Old 09-04-2010, 22:01   #70
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Several indexes of sharp drill bits. An old-fashioned "eggbeater drill" and a heavy duty "breast drill". Stow them somewhere dry for when the battery operated units and AC drills crap out. Brace and bits for wood when you have no power options. Hole saws and Forstner bits. It never hurts to be "holier than thou".
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:00   #71
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About 12 years ago I purchased a large Metwrench set from Sears for about $250. It has been the best tool purchase that I have ever made and has sufficed for 99% of the times that I have needed to deal with a nut or bolt. It easily replaced 60 pounds of wrenches and sockets and I have yet to round off the head of a bolt or nut. Combined with a can of PB Blaster, you are 99% there with a good set of screw drivers.
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Old 10-04-2010, 13:01   #72
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I designed a jig that will allow me to drill through the center of the screws and bolts, then retap the hole to remove the remaining metal in the threads to reuse the same holes. My knowledge in this area is self preservation and sanity.
Iceman, would you mind describing your drill jig better, or better yet post a diagram?
Thanks
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Old 10-04-2010, 13:12   #73
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my mechanic showed me a neat trick with a huge pair of channel locks that made it so easy to tighten an alternator belt I went right to the hardware store and bought myself a new toy.
Bash, how do you use Channel Locks to tighten an alternator belt?
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Old 10-04-2010, 13:43   #74
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I'll add one more "necessary tool" to the well advised listing posted above. I like to keep a large turkey baster aboard. Yes, you heard right! -Turkey Baster! the large pipette with the squeeze bulb comes in real handy when you need to move some fluids in or out of a hard to reach spot. Believe me the time will come when you call out, "where's my turkey baster! Another essential for me is one of the long ankle leashes that surfers use to attach themselves to their surf boards. I cut the ends off an it gives me an effective and non-damaging snake that I can use to ream out the sediment that collects in the heat exchange coils of my marine AC as well as a probe through other tubes or hoses. One more, would be a three foot length of flexible fishing rod tip with an alligator clip clamped on the end. A rag clipped on this probe will allow you to keep that engine sump clean or to be able to clean out any of those inaccessable places. Yeah, don't forget the surfer's leash and the turkey baster and the broken fishing rod! 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
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