Slow & Easy Stainless Cleaning

[OrangeCrush]

I removed all my stanchion posts and bases this year as I'm redoing my lifelines. They're all pretty tarnished with varying degrees of rusty haze, rust stains, grime, black bits, old pieces of caulk, and more. There are over 30 pieces so it looks like quite a job.

I've read some threads here on the subject and most of them recommend a very strong acid for a very short amount of time, plus elbow grease. I've got plenty of time on my hands so I was wondering if there's a way to do it more easily/ cheaply/safely over a longer time period.

Has anyone set up a weaker acid bath over a longer period of days or even weeks? I also have a trickle charger and some rebar lying around, but I can't figure out if the electrolysis method will work on surface stains that aren't oxidation of the metal itself.

In short, I want perfect results with the least possible effort... Any suggestions? Thanks!

[flyingfin]

Try NeverDull yet?

[stormalong]

The least possible effort is to pay someone to do it. Take it to a marine stainless fabricator that can electro-polish or polish on a buffing wheel. Not cheap but easy.

If you want to DIY I recommend Brite Boy stainless polish. It is available in one gallon quantities for far less money than the small containers from marine suppliers. Takes a lot of rags, some time, not much elbow grease but does a nice job.

Here it is is at Amazon with free shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/Brite-Boy-49228/dp/B06WD6LH6J

Here it is where I have bought it pre-amazon, shipping extra
BRITE BOY Metal Polish & Cleaner - Gallon - Janitor's World

NOTE: No relation to the company other than a happy customer.

[smith8273]

I've been using Simply Stainless, easy and works pretty good.

[Kebs3]

https://www.barkeepersfriend.com/products/cleanser/ Bar keepers friend is useful for spot cleaning and maintenance, not sure how well it would work on your big project but if are willing to do it yourself, and take it slowly it may do the trick

[CarlF]

You want Spotless Stainless. It's a citrus acid compound. Not particularly dangerous. The stainless will truly look new. You have to see it to believe it. No rubbing needed.

First, use something like barkeepers friend to remove the caulk and other mystery material. But don't worry about the rust, stains or corrosion.

You must follow the instructions: Use only above 70 degrees. Dab the gel on with a rag or foam brush. Leave it there for 20 minutes. Don't let it dry. I go back and dab some more every 5 minutes to make sure it doesn't dry. Then wash it off very thoroughly. Use a spray from a faucet/hose AND a wet rag. If any remains it leaves a haze that can only be removed by repeating the process.

Only works on stainless. Chrome and aluminum need different approaches.

After using it for a few years you'll find the stainless stays shiny longer.

https://spotlessstainless.com/

[David Chop]

Oxalic acid. Active ingredient in barkeeps friend. Good for light rust and great for re-passivating stainless (makes dull to shiny). Also makes a damn good teak cleaning solution.


Probably not enough for the perfect and perfectly lazy outcome you're asking for, maybe others will have that unicorn for you, but that's what I'd use. I don't think there's any getting around the application of at least a little elbow grease.

[zboss]

I've found that spotless stainless does just fine if you let it go dry. Just don't let the sun dry it out too fast. I've left ours on overnight and it does an even better job.

However, its only good for moderate rust. Heavy rust requires a precleaning and some elbow grease with a more aggressive chemical, good bronze wool, and brass brush.

[coopec43]

Spotless Stainless v Bar Keeper's Friend | YBW Forum


https://forums.ybw.com › spotless-stainless-v-bar-keepe...



May 1, 2016 — Is Spotless Stainless at £24.99 for 450ml compared to Bar Keeper's Friend at £2.99 for 500ml that much better? Both contain oxalic acid (perhaps at... ... Good for cleaning top sides as well as stainless steel. 1 May 2016.

[sailing_gal]

I make my own version of Barkeeper's Friend. Some oxalic acid crystals, dissolve in some water, stir in a bunch of cheap toothpaste. Make it as strong or as watery as you like.

[geoleo]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

I removed all my stanchion posts and bases this year as I'm redoing my lifelines. They're all pretty tarnished with varying degrees of rusty haze, rust stains, grime, black bits, old pieces of caulk, and more. There are over 30 pieces so it looks like quite a job.

I've read some threads here on the subject and most of them recommend a very strong acid for a very short amount of time, plus elbow grease. I've got plenty of time on my hands so I was wondering if there's a way to do it more easily/ cheaply/safely over a longer time period.

Has anyone set up a weaker acid bath over a longer period of days or even weeks? I also have a trickle charger and some rebar lying around, but I can't figure out if the electrolysis method will work on surface stains that aren't oxidation of the metal itself.

In short, I want perfect results with the least possible effort... Any suggestions? Thanks!

Flitz from Walmart and Bartenders Helper from everywhere.

[Shrew]

These will work:

https://www.defender.com/category.js...285&id=2303294

I've used "Woody Wax" with success. We use Flitz and it works great. I've also used fiberglass wax (with a mild cutting agent) up to 'Cleaner and Wax' with great success as well.

I've never encountered or tried a simple spray and wash or spray and wipe product. They are all going to require some 'wax on/wax off' effort.

[Scrimshaw4]

I have found that Collinite 850 Metal Wax does a great job of removing tarnish and rust stains from stainless. Wipe on, rub in a little, let dry, wipe off. If heavy blemishing use a light 3M pad found on the back of kitchen sponges. JMHO

[sail sfbay]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

I removed all my stanchion posts and bases this year as I'm redoing my lifelines. They're all pretty tarnished with varying degrees of rusty haze, rust stains, grime, black bits, old pieces of caulk, and more. There are over 30 pieces so it looks like quite a job..............Has anyone set up a weaker acid bath over a longer period of days or even weeks? ............

Try CitriSurf 2310 Gel Stainless Steel Rust Remover and Passivation Cleaner...............works wonders removing rust and even passivates stainless steel. That is what I use. Acetone might be suitable to remove grime and black bits. Nitric acid is reportedly is the only mineral acid which should be used to clean stainless steel.

[Cheechako]

Personally I would never use acid. Every time I have it created rapid rust return.
Acid etching, cleaning and polishing are tightly controlled processes. (Aerospace Manufacturing Engineer here)
There are some cleaners with mildly acidic content that are fine.
Passivation and acid polishing if not done properly make the problem worse. The acid attacks the grain boundaries in the SS making them more "open" and susceptible to corrosion, not to mention if you have nicely polished hardware it will make that more dull..

Once you get all the other debis you mention off, there are many simple polishing compounds like bathtub gelcoat cleaners or Finesse It that work fine cleaning minor rusting from SS. I used Finesse It on the boat all the time. If the hardware is too rusty for that, it needs replaced.