Rust Removal Wheel

[Gazzap]

Greetings to all from Melbourne, Australia.
I have been lurking for a while now, reading your posts, and have found some very informative info, thank you.
I have a steel BR Spray that has some cosmetic rust problems. I have tried light grinding and wire brushing with limited results to remove the rust, so I am looking to try something else (with out sand blasting).
Last year I read on the forum of a moulded rubber wheel (with knob like protrusions on the circumference with a hard substance on the end of them) that could be fitted to a small grinder/sander, this would remove paint and rust.
You could fit more than one wheel at a time.
Unfortunately the info I had which included the agent in Australia has been lost on a previous dead computer and I can't remember the name of it to try a chase one down, can any one help me with this products name ,etc.

[SoulJah]

Perhaps you are looking for polycarbide abrasive disks?
I've seen 'em at Bunnings, but be quick 'cos whenever they appear everyone buys the stock out real quick. 3M make a beauty but it's expensive. I recon the generics work well for half the price. I recon the grinder ones are easier to use than the ones that fit in a drill.

Auto store perhaps?

[Gazzap]

Thanks SoulJah, but the one's I'm looking for are none abrasive, the knobs around the disc/wheel ( about a dozen on aprox 100mm dial disc) act like a hammer as the disc turns knocking off the paint or rust. The wheels I think originated from England and they have only one agent in Qld for Aust. I have tried searching all I can think of but am not getting a hit on anything?

[conachair]

these things?

PERAGO scrapers by PERAGO at Toplicht

[Boracay]

The problem with all methods that do not involve high pressure air and abrasive is that they all tend to "peen" over the steel to some extent trapping rust particles and water/salt under steel.

Then when paint is applied on top the water/salt reacts with oxygen that comes through the paint which causes continued rust which lifts the paint and the problem recurs.

That said I have had limited success on very small bits with using a Dremel type tool and a diamond ball bit to grind out the rust, followed by phosphoric acid and then POR 15 (a single pot moisture setting polyurethane) top coated while the POR 15 is still "cheesy" with a good single pot marine enamel. You'd need to read the POR 15 instructions.

I've also used an 80 grit flapper disk on a 4" grinder on larger areas followed by the above also with limited success.

Rust never sleeps...

[conachair]

Originally Posted by Boracay

The problem with all methods that do not involve high pressure air and abrasive is that they all tend to "peen" over the steel to some extent trapping rust particles and water/salt under steel.

Then when paint is applied on top the water/salt reacts with oxygen that comes through the paint which causes continued rust which lifts the paint and the problem recurs.

That said I have had limited success on very small bits with using a Dremel type tool and a diamond ball bit to grind out the rust, followed by phosphoric acid and then POR 15 (a single pot moisture setting polyurethane) top coated while the POR 15 is still "cheesy" with a good single pot marine enamel. You'd need to read the POR 15 instructions.

I've also used an 80 grit flapper disk on a 4" grinder on larger areas followed by the above also with limited success.

Rust never sleeps...

I have one of those perago wheel, speeds things up lots getting the worst of the scale off instead of using a chipping hammer. Shotblast is without doubt the best option but often just not an option. And ospho doesn't really like the cold so makes in even harder trying to do some painting in a winter somewhere.

Disagree about Por15, will never be on my boat again . Or any single pot. This is the daddy for first priming coat imho, great stuff but takes an age to go off and will soak into anything..
http://pacificsouthwest.net/assets/d...ler_PDS_AI.pdf

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF,Gazzap.

[Gazzap]

Thanks for your replies.
Perago scraper is the info I was looking for many thanks Conachair for that. Have you found these wheels better than wire wheels to work with?
Has anyone used Rust Bullet for over coating prepped rusty steel ( similar to Poor 15 but suitable to use outside without any topcoat), I would be interested to hear any opinions on it?
I

[conachair]

Originally Posted by Gazzap

Thanks for your replies.
Perago scraper is the info I was looking for many thanks Conachair for that. Have you found these wheels better than wire wheels to work with?
Has anyone used Rust Bullet for over coating prepped rusty steel ( similar to Poor 15 but suitable to use outside without any topcoat), I would be interested to hear any opinions on it?
I

The perago seems better at getting rid of the scale, I have them all wirebrushes in the angle grinder, flap wheels in the drill. They all come in useful at some point

As for rust buster, doubt it, after a few years onboard I think there is no ultimate answer, grit blasting is as good as it gets but very often simply not an option. Single pack paints I haven't had a happy time with, everything on the boat is 2 pack now. But it's very difficult to tell, you try something and a few years later the rust seeps through or the paint lifts so try something else, and if it lasts a while you go on the internet and say "My way works best!"


For the price of a couple of beers this is well worth a download...
Metal boat maintenance-A do it yourself guide by Scott Fratcher (eBook) - Lulu

And that ameron sealer really is worth a look

[GlenM]

Wire brushes and sand paper are OK, but you still have to remove the scaled rust in the bottom of the pits, or it will come back. It does not work if it is clean on top and there is scaled rust in the bottom of the pit.
I found an attachment for my little blue pressure washer that you put in a bucket of grit, and it sucks the grit up into the nozzle and blasts it out. It gets to white metal all over, but what a mess, sand everywhere. Dry off as soon as possible, wipe down with solvent and then coat. I have had good luck with Amerlock2, but for the past 2 years I have been using an epoxy cream that seems to be working good. It goes on like body filler. Time will tell.

Glen

[hpeer]

Anyone ever think of painting with 5200?

May sound crazy but ......why not?

[FlyingCloud1937]

This product is hands down the best tool for the job RustReformer

I have used it for years with great success. My windlass tool is iron it lays on deck 24-7. I painted it with RR 10 years ago, and to this day I have not had rust return to the tool.

My boat is a 1937, iron fastened wood hull, I have treated re-current bleeders, that have now vanished, more then 7 years.

Lloyd