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Old 22-10-2008, 02:15   #16
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North of the Bridge, thankfully
Boat: R930
Posts: 1,659
One of these I'd regard as overkill at 2000lb WLL
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One of these would probably do
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But one of these looks so much sexier
URD 300 Error Page

I'd go with the last one as it has a WLL of 790lb, will run the easiest so less system drag/friction and of course it looks the best, an important feature

Those are just examples by Harken obviously. I'd be thinking about a 2" block (but bigger is better if it'll fit) and one that runs real smooth, system drag thing again. Those are cheek blocks but you could just shackle something on by your gooseneck maybe. I don't know your gooseneck. As SStar points out you do want it as far forward as you can get it and not aft of the cringe itself. Fixed by 3/16" machine screws or bolted through. Rivets would do but I've had them work a bit looose after a while once or twice. Watching a block slowly coming off in 40kts isn't really that much fun, as you would expect.

5/16" line, sweet as. For the short length of it required on a 26fter I'd also spent the little amount more to get a real good rope. Either that or get a nice rope and over the wear points use some of this type cover to cover them.
Samson

Not too tricky to do your boat as long as you can get things in the right positions easily. Not a huge cost relatively speaking considering a poorly reefed main is one of the biggest pain in the rear ends you can get. A flat stable main is a safer more controllable main in a blow.

Remember system drag and minimise it where ever you can, it just makes the string pulling so much easier.

And it's not a place to use minimum sized gear, save that for less mission critical uses.
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