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Richard5 · 25-02-2013, 19:18

BTW; my 8" disc is a Milwaukee. Tapped into either side of the head are the threads for a handle. I tapped a third thread at 90 degrees out the top for a 3rd position hand grip. It works well for the upside down work as sometimes needed. Lock the trigger, set the speed, go to town.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 19:42

Thanks Richard. I'll post you a pic of my secret weapon long board soon. You'll be amazed...

Richard5 · 25-02-2013, 19:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

Thanks Richard. I'll post you a pic of my secret weapon long board soon. You'll be amazed...

Lemme guess...thrice articulated board?

A long time ago, I forget where I read it...probably one of those down east shipbuilders...they used a circular motion contraption which only required the worker to apply a force to keep the business end against the hull. I had also seen a similar rig in use in an old S&S yard in Newport Beach, California. The thing was ancient and featured a long arm of multiple articulations which allowed prit near any angle of an infinite precision.

Richard5 · 25-02-2013, 19:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

...That's why I post these pics, in the hope that others will be able to do the same for themselves instead of having to pay a fortune.

So easy a caveman can do it. har har

Determination and perseverance, indeed. With a good measure of stamina.

Seriously though, I don't quite understand the apparent adversity so many have to working with lay-ups, coatings, epoxies, etc. After all, the chemist has done the hard part.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard5

Lemme guess...thrice articulated board?

A long time ago, I forget where I read it...probably one of those down east shipbuilders...they used a circular motion contraption which only required the worker to apply a force to keep the business end against the hull. I had also seen a similar rig in use in an old S&S yard in Newport Beach, California. The thing was ancient and featured a long arm of multiple articulations which allowed prit near any angle of an infinite precision.

I have built some contraptions myself, but only on new builds where the hull was upside down. Helps to have gravity on your side.

Ooh, shiny skeg shoe straight from the blaster box!

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:23

Dry fit. PITA lifting the whole rudder and shoe up and down each time, lots of 2 ton jack use.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:25

Not so dry fit. 4200FC.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:26

New SS thru bolts. Just on general principle.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:30

Scotch brited with a Roloc grinder, blown with dry air, and immediately coated with Fast WEST.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:31

Slicked with a chemical bond.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:33

A part of my arsenal.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:35

Air file and mud hog are great for rough fairing. Air file will kick your ass.

**minaret** · 25-02-2013, 20:39

You saw the rudder freshly slicked in a recent skeg pic. Now here is a rough synopsis of fairing. First make a pass with only the big long board, preferably the stiffie, depending on shape and which plane you are fairing in. This is just to mark the highs with scratches. Once the highs are marked an aggressive pass is made with the air file and mud hog to knock down the highs.