Morgan 34 Centerboard Diagram

[Aqua Vitae]

We just recently got a 1967 Morgan 34 and, for the life of me, I cannot figure out the mechanics of the centerboard pennant and tube within the keel. We are hauled out and the pennant line is broken. I am really scratching my head on this one, and don't want to tackle a 250 pound bronze centerboard until I know what I am doing. I cannot find much of anything on the internet, so any help on this boat would be greatly appreciated.

[maarty10]

drop me a line, maarty10@hotmail.com
I know a lot about a lot with the morgan 34

[maarty10]

This is an amazing boat. I have been accused of having the engine on, when sailing close hauled. The centre board is not complicated. It is actually very simple and easy to maintain.

[maarty10]

The pendant leads through a stainless half inch diameter tube, within which it is epoxied. The tube leads through a stuffing box, which keeps the ocean out. The stainless pendant then connects to the centre board with a shackle. The board, if it was all the way down, hinges on a pin on the forward upper corner of the board. Here is where it connects to the centre board trunk. The aft of the board (remember, it is down for this explanation) is where the shackle connects. The board takes about 67 turns on the winch in the cockpit, to take it from all the way up to all the way down.

[maarty10]

Here is a Morgan 34 Centerboard diagram. It will help give an idea of how the wire sits in the pendant tube. The tube itself houses the wire, and a packing gland is on the inside of the boat.
The 90 degree arc of the top of the board is what allows the pendant wire to always travel in a straight line.
In the event of a failure with this system there are probably only four that are likely.
-The wire could break at the tube (crevice corrosion), or it could break at the pendant swage. A break at the swage could be the result of crevice corrosion and fatigue: the swage is straight, and the arc it lays on is curved.
-The pivot pin could let go; how I don't know, but anything is possible.
-The pendant attachment pin could let go; again, I don't know how, since I haven't had a close enough look to know how it is secured.

A good measure to take, although it isn't illustrated, it to drill a half inch hole at the bottom leading edge of the board: in the event of a pendant failure a shackle can be attached there, and a line can be used to haul up the board. A loose board will likely be lost or damaged in any kind of a rough seaway if it bottoms out.

[maarty10]

Morgan 34 Centerboard Removal Diagram for anyone who needs it.

[Joseph Randazzo]

Originally Posted by maarty10

Here is a Morgan 34 Centerboard diagram. It will help give an idea of how the wire sits in the pendant tube. The tube itself houses the wire, and a packing gland is on the inside of the boat.
The 90 degree arc of the top of the board is what allows the pendant wire to always travel in a straight line.
In the event of a failure with this system there are probably only four that are likely.
-The wire could break at the tube (crevice corrosion), or it could break at the pendant swage. A break at the swage could be the result of crevice corrosion and fatigue: the swage is straight, and the arc it lays on is curved.
-The pivot pin could let go; how I don't know, but anything is possible.
-The pendant attachment pin could let go; again, I don't know how, since I haven't had a close enough look to know how it is secured.

A good measure to take, although it isn't illustrated, it to drill a half inch hole at the bottom leading edge of the board: in the event of a pendant failure a shackle can be attached there, and a line can be used to haul up the board. A loose board will likely be lost or damaged in any kind of a rough seaway if it bottoms out.

Can you supply me with enlarged drawing josuer@comcast.net Thank you Joe R I love my morgan 34

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Joseph Randazzo.

Just keep clicking on the posted drawing (jpg), until you get a full screen version.

[Joseph Randazzo]

Originally Posted by Joseph Randazzo

Can you supply me with enlarged drawing josuer@comcast.net Thank you Joe R I love my morgan 34

A Very big Thank You Joe R

[Joseph Randazzo]

Just a reminder to those of us that have Morgans with center boards, don't forget to check the shaft packing where the piston comes into your bost. It too needs a look and wrenched same procedure as the shaft that propels the boat. Also, a drop of HD oil or light duty grease will go a long way on both the pulley and winch,. and wipe the piston with a dab of grease to smoove out its movement. I know that most already know this, its just a reminder

Joe Randazzo - Our Second Chance

[rpjn59]

Well, three years later and the post goes on. First the idea of drilling a hole for future possibilities deserves a 'Nobel Prize'.

Now for my question. Anyway, I dove the boat to investigate the lack of center board retrieval and found the broken pendant. However, the top of the board is not the continuous radius that is described in the previous posts. The top of the board is actually 'U' shaped. When the board is down, I can actually slip my hand in between the bottom of the 'U' and the bottom of the trunk(boat)[ which is actually a really, really bad idea, almost lost a finger]. So, is this a late model redesign, has anyone seen this type of board?

Thanks, R

[Friedy]

Reviving this old thread.

Bought my 1967 Morgan 34 about a year ago (Sept 2022), made many upgrades - including re-fiberglassing under the pulley system in the engine compartment due to the pulley ripping out from rotten wood underneath. Got lodged in the transmission coupler and had to sail back into the slip. Still a novice sailor but the wind was perfect to get back in thankfully.

Have done a successful maiden voyage from Melbourne FL to Key West, here on a mooring ball. Literally the morning before we were to takeoff north towards Clearwater for the holidays, woke up to a large bang. I thought someone drifted into us or we drift into them (breaking from the mooring). It wasn't. Dove underneath to see the cable pennant snapped and the CB hanging - scary when the wake rocked us. Weird because i was planning to replace in St Pete.

We secured the CB with a line wrapped around and winched it up 1/4 of the way up, its been doing alright. Dive on it everyday to check the rope. Scheduled to haul out in a week and a half to fix it (and replace the packing in both the prop and the CB shaft) so i am thankful to have found this thread.

My question is: What do you think about using dyneema vs the SS cable? I've heard of it being used for rigging (which seems to be controversial) but not sure how it would hold up below the water line. I was thinking about putting a spliced eye in the dyneema with a long splice on both sides. Some concern of sag but would use large diameter dyneema to over build it. Still open to SS cable but want to see if i could improve this so i can have a longer useful life and haulout less often in the future.

CB has obviously been a pain but I love the shoal draft as I am still without a depth transducer that works (old one from the 80's). Also taught me a lot of balance and trimming while sailing.

It's all a learning experience isn't it?

Thanks,
Friedy

[Aqua Vitae]

WOW, I completely forgot starting this thread until I got the email about a new post.
Congratulations on keeping this good old boat alive! A little background before I throw my opinion into the ring...
We were rescued by the Coast Guard in Aqua Vitae December 2009. Engine conked out on a passage preceding a storm, anchor dragged onto a lee shore, centerboard was snapped in half by the grounding. Boat US pulled us off, then tow line parted and storm proceeded in full force. Coasties managed to get me a line and towed in to Masonboro Inlet. Boat was a loss.
Fast forward fourteen years, have had a Hans Christian 38 for twelve years and have been working as a rigger in NJ for 6.
Was working on an early Tartan 37 centerboard pennant last week. Had a dyneema pennant that was reportedly 20 years old that was completely functional.
So yes, spectra is more than appropriate and way better than SS.
Good luck!
S/V Mistral
City Island, NY

[Friedy]

Aqua Vitae thanks for getting back to me so quickly!

I am working hard to keep her going, I have a lot of love for this boat.

Wow a crazy story for sure, I'm glad you and crew were ok. I always know its a possibility but hope it never will come to that point for me.

Your experience adds credibility and am definitely leaning towards Dyneema, crazy that your client's have lasted so long. I will still probably replace every 3-5 years regardless. Really appreciate your post!

Cheers,
Friedy
S/V Christine