Messed up painting my cockpit

[Cheechako]

MEK: It is getting harder to find up here in the PNW. Was looking from some the other day and having more trouble except in a gallon. I'm not sure it's bad rep is well deserved. I was Health and Safety director for a few years in a plant that had to use MEK for certain things. I researched it heavily. It's amazing what they do to those poor rats to try to determine these things. Basically they directly inject the rats with larger and larger doses until the rat dies, then they back off prior to the killing level and do it continually until a few rats develop cancer. Then they call the stuff a carcinogen.
So I guess that means if you are going to shoot up with it and do it long enough you might get cancer.
Watch out you sailor junkies!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Acetone would be better - cleans and evaporates quicker.

I would sand what you have, clean up with acetone and apply Kiwigrip instead of poly, it is thick enough to cover the molded non-skid.

Acetone evaporates TOO quickly. You will do a much better job with less material with MEK. Even better is Awlprep (which is mostly MEK). T0008 is your friend. Acetone is not a great degreaser. You want something that stays wet long enough to do a proper two rag technique, one wet, one dry. Acetone doesn't.

[Hi Ho]

Not a big fan of Kiwigrip, always dirty never can get it clean. I have gotten the same results but with a more yacht type finish that is more durable with a two part poly thickened with West Systems 404 that is to keep easy clean.

[mrohr]

Use only what the manufacturer recommends and do not cut any corners!!! If you do your finished product will be compromised.

FWIW: I have a degree in chemistry.

[carlspackler]

Originally Posted by mrohr

Use only what the manufacturer recommends and do not cut any corners!!! If you do your finished product will be compromised.

FWIW: I have a degree in chemistry.

So do I, BA from NYU 1982, worked in a lab for 5 years. I am always trying to find out what the chemical and purity that is used is, rather than buy a trademarked process or whatever is being marketed. Good point about the thinner, I should not have assumed it was mineral spirits. Wish there was someone here who could say they ran Pettit thinner through a GC/MS and could say what it's made of.

What I should have done, in hindsight, was experiment on the plate that covers the rudder, then I would not have risked so much re-work.

Anything I put on that flooring had better be compatible. I could imagine MEK (or MEK substitute) softening the gel too much. At this point, yes, I will only use Pettit products with Pettit coating.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by carlspackler

So do I, BA from NYU 1982, worked in a lab for 5 years. I am always trying to find out what the chemical and purity that is used is, rather than buy a trademarked process or whatever is being marketed. Good point about the thinner, I should not have assumed it was mineral spirits. Wish there was someone here who could say they ran Pettit thinner through a GC/MS and could say what it's made of.

What I should have done, in hindsight, was experiment on the plate that covers the rudder, then I would not have risked so much re-work.

Anything I put on that flooring had better be compatible. I could imagine MEK (or MEK substitute) softening the gel too much. At this point, yes, I will only use Pettit products with Pettit coating.

MEK does not soften gel-at all. You can pour on a big puddle and let it sit till it evaporates.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by carlspackler

Wish there was someone here who could say they ran Pettit thinner through a GC/MS and could say what it's made of.

No need for that - Pettit tells you what is in it: http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...s/11212006.PDF

Mark

[thinwater]

You're overthinking this.

The manufacture said Scotchbrite and soap. If you had used a stong solution of TSP (very alkiline), you would be finished.

Mineral spirits is a poor choise, for the reasons given. Residue.

Acetone is a poor choise because it will not help etch the underlying surface and won't help with algae in the groves. TSP and and perhaps bleach will eat is out, leaving no residue after water rinse.

Solvents are not needed as there is no wax or mold release. They are non-functional in this application. What are they disolving?

I think folks like acetone because it dries quickly and they can get on to the next step. That doesn't make it best.

----

I have used this sort of prep many times for many products. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a solvent wipe for waxes followed by a Scotchbrite/TSP scrub for residue. I have had failures using solvent only, as you seldome use enough to get ALL of the residue, which is easier to be certain of with an alkiline soap, scrub pad and a hose. Tha manufacutuer know this.

[jkindredpdx]

Originally Posted by thinwater

... I have used this sort of prep many times for many products. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a solvent wipe for waxes followed by a Scotchbrite/TSP scrub for residue...

I use TSP! It was the go-to cleaner prior to painting in the good ole days. It's cheap, effective, and relatively non-toxic.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by jkindredpdx

I use TSP! It was the go-to cleaner prior to painting in the good ole days. It's cheap, effective, and relatively non-toxic.

Yep, great for prep. I've even used it when washing/to restore old algae ridden decks. It's strong stuff though... wear rubber gloves for sure... dont ask how I know this.... my hands burned bad for a couple of days, dried and cracked the skin.
I see it's available in a spray can pre mixed now days. The other wash that works very well is a good strong powderred laundry detergent in a big shaker. My guess is that has TSP in it.... although the manufacutrers are shying away fom the stuff now days. The best I ever used was an Amway powdered laundry detergent.... that stuff will cean anything!

[redsky49]

Originally Posted by jkindredpdx

I use TSP! It was the go-to cleaner prior to painting in the good ole days. It's cheap, effective, and relatively non-toxic.

I have also used it for painting decks. Zero problems with adhesion.

My issues have all been with color matching: