Leveling surface for backing plates

[SuW]

Originally Posted by daletournier

I'm certainly no expert but in your case I would epoxy all four teak pieces together so it's one big permanent block. I would then use the 4200 or equivalent to mate it to transom.

I agree with Dale about this. We did this for our anchor windlass to raise it 5 inches so that the chain cleared the bow. We used pieces of scrap 3/4" teak recycled from an old boat's cabinetry. It has lasted very well. You have to clean the teak faces with acetone or something to get as much oil out of the surface as you can.

The only thing you might consider is using 3M 4000 to attach the assembly instead of 4200 which goes slightly yellow in the sun. Doesn't matter if you're going to paint it, though.

[ErBrown]

OK, so the backing plates and pads are all done and I decided to bring the spacer pad home to finish up while I'm away from the boat.

The plan is to apply cetol (natural/gloss) to match the rest of the boat but I have a quick question. Now that the pads for the spacer are all epoxied together and sanded down nice and smooth, the areas between pads where the epoxy penetrated the wood are a bit darker than the bare teak and since the epoxy runs the entire surface between pads, no amount of sanding is going to remove it (picture below).

I'm considering applying a few coats of West 105/207 (special clear hardner) to the surface of the pad to even the color and seal the wood. Then sanding and cetoling over the top.

Would this be a mistake? Should I just go with straight cetol and live with the darker spots?

[daletournier]

Live with the spots, a crusing boat does not stay perfect for long. I now live by the 80% rule, if its 80% ok, its ok. Obviously that rule dosent apply to wiring etc.

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