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Old 04-01-2007, 07:32   #16
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I'm not exactly sure which type is bleeding from the windows when it's washed right now. So, should I assume I would use the double sided tape as recommended in Sexy Windows for bonding the replacement lexan windows down and then use sikaflex 295 for trimming around the edges? Or do you think that the tape wouldn't be adequate for a window of this size? Basically tape would hold down the lexan window itself, and the overlaying frame, and then I would edge around the window with the black 295. I have leaking hatches too, so I would assume using the same technique? And mechanically carve the old ones out with a razor be the most effective way? Sorry for needing to get the details down, but the scope of this is incredible, lots of hatches, lots of windows.
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:24   #17
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Old 17-01-2007, 02:43   #18
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removing sexy windows - HELP!

I need to replace the four sexy windows round the saloon on my Gib'Sea 422. These are about 800mm x 400mm overall each and are stuck to a reccess of about 40 mm wide on the outside with Sikaflex to a thickness of about 3mm. My problem at the moment is how to remove them before I can fit new ones.

I have started with a sharp cutting knife scoring along the inside (The outside is inaccessible because of the reccess) and progress is painfully slow.

Is there a better way? After days of effort I seem to have hardly made any significant progress. HELP!

Here is a picture to explain



As you see there is a frame on the inside, also stuck with Sikaflex.
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Old 17-01-2007, 04:58   #19
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Cut the old window out with a jig saw as close to the window frame as possible without damaging it then use a dremmell type tool with a small grinding disk to cut the sika.
Mike
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Old 17-01-2007, 06:35   #20
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Thank you Mike,

I did think of the dremmel but the 'big' grinding disk is only 15 mm in radius.
It would still leave me with 25 mm of sika to be dug out somehow.

Also I do not want to cut the old window because it is curved and I need to get it out in one piece for a mould to be made for the new one.

Aris
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Old 17-01-2007, 07:52   #21
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regarding the dremel, the recommendation to me (last night) is to dremel it out using the wire brush attachment, not the grinder.
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Old 17-01-2007, 07:56   #22
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one last recommendation from a person far more experienced than I is to heat up a putty knife and see if you can slip it in and break the bond that way.
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Old 17-01-2007, 08:27   #23
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How about getting an electric carving knife, the type with 2 blades that reciprocate. If it doesnt work as is use a fine grinder to reshape the teeth to have more hook. Did something similar years ago where i had to get down quite deep.
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Old 17-01-2007, 09:09   #24
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Thank you for the input.

Heated knife seems to work. Disadvantages are :

1) it cools down fairly quickly

2) on reaheating over the cooking stove there is rather a stink of the sika burning.

I'm off to buy a carving knife now. But don't let that stop you thinking :-)
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Old 18-01-2007, 12:39   #25
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In case you were all holding your breath:
I could not buy a carving knife yesterday because it was Wednesday and shops here in Greece are closed on Wed afternoon. You did not know that?

So I went and bought one today.

A formidable looking object with two different pairs of blades. The coarse toothed ones looked promising.
Snag no 1 : the body of the machine does not allow the blades to approach the sika groove.
Snag no 2 : the two blades together were too thick to fit in the groove anyway.

I fitted only one blade - on the wrong side - so that it could be made to get in the groove with a little flexing.

Ever hopeful I turned the machine on but NOTHING :

With light pressure the blade seemed to slide on the sika - not cut it.
More pressure and the blade anchored itself in the sika causing the machine to vibrate back and forth.

I packed the thing back in its box.

Anybody needing a 130 Watt 240 Volt carving knife? Mint condition!
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Old 18-01-2007, 14:07   #26
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In extremis, you might try a little cyclotrimethylene-trinitramine (C3H6N6O6).
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Old 18-01-2007, 14:47   #27
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We gave up on saving our old windows and bought new Lexan. The lexan was flexible enough to bend considerably to fit our curved deck house. We tried the cutting wire that glass shops use to remove windshields, a hack saw blade, heat gun, putty knife, prayer, cursing, you name it. Once I had the window out, a wood chisel made a great scraper to remove old adhesive. It cut it cleanly and got me close enough to bare material that I could then sand off the rest.

We have finished 2 of 8 windows. Slow project. Much more work than it appeared at first.

George
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Old 18-01-2007, 14:52   #28
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go to Spartan.com

Or just buy a Cape Dory with their Spartan bronze and glass PORTS. Windows are for houses. Yep, I'm just a tad prejudice.\\

randy cape dory 25D seraph
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Old 18-01-2007, 15:56   #29
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You seem to be a mine of infromation Gord.

Not wanting to pester you with very ignorant questions I have googled it.
this is what I found:
Safety (MSDS) data for cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine


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Old 18-01-2007, 17:28   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipperaris
You seem to be a mine of infromation Gord.

Not wanting to pester you with very ignorant questions I have googled it.
this is what I found:
Safety (MSDS) data for cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine


Unfortunately most thing's that work are.

The explosive bit would get the window's out fast

Dave
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