How to get rid of rust and grime on stainless

[zeehag]

i found that when the chemicals run out that sea water will work. so does outdated organic (or otherwise) lemon juice......

omg, you say--but it DOES work well....

[sweetsailing]

I am going through the process right now of cleaning and polishing all the stainless steel on our, new to us, boat. Many of the portholes in particular were quite rusty and gunkgy looking. I have been using Collinite's No. 850 Metal Wax. This stuff is great. Non-corrosive (i.e. no acid) and produces some great results.

[Noname]

Barkeepers friend- cheap and effective for rust. For the Grime:Spray-Nine is a super all around cleaner for the stainless and fiberglass. Use a coat of spray wax to protect the stainless after cleaning.
(my 2-cents worth)

[Ram]

Originally Posted by sweetsailing

I am going through the process right now of cleaning and polishing all the stainless steel on our, new to us, boat. Many of the portholes in particular were quite rusty and gunkgy looking. I have been using Collinite's No. 850 Metal Wax. This stuff is great. Non-corrosive (i.e. no acid) and produces some great results.

Thats good stuff, that & 845 after- it lasts atleast 6 months- I just spent 10 hours today doing mine- happy not to do it until next year again!

[Dennis.G]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

... After you polish, I suggest passivating the rails ....

Can someone 'splain what passivating is?

[Sailor g]

Originally Posted by Dennis.G

Can someone 'splain what passivating is?

You clean the SS and make it "passive" or more resistant to corrosion. IMHO

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivation#_

[HopCar]

My favorite product for removing rust stains from stainless and fiberglass is Whink Rust Stain Remover. It's sold in grocery stores, hardware stores and good marine supply stores. The active ingredient is hydrofloric acid. Squirt it on and light stains just vanish, heavy stains might need some rubbing with a cloth.

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by Dennis.G

Can someone 'splain what passivating is?

Passivation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

b.

[barnakiel]

I think the theory says when you have a nice passive state piece of SS and you scratch it then the scratched part does not have that protective layer and the scratched / unscratched parts start to corrode between each other just like any two metals would.

Roughly this is the trick, I believe.

SS must be nice shiny and passive to remain SS.

b.

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

I think the theory says when you have a nice passive state piece of SS and you scratch it then the scratched part does not have that protective layer and the scratched / unscratched parts start to corrode between each other just like any two metals would.

Roughly this is the trick, I believe.

SS must be nice shiny and passive to remain SS.

b.

i keep my ss NOT shiny--came not buffed--i dont like shiny--works great. i think folks with yachts over think their stuff just a tad. ss is ss even without shiny. just looks different than shiny. functions same, per my machinist in sin diego.

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by zeehag

i keep my ss NOT shiny--came not buffed--i dont like shiny--works great. i think folks with yachts over think their stuff just a tad. ss is ss even without shiny. just looks different than shiny. functions same, per my machinist in sin diego.

I agree some items can be left the way they are - if this is what pleases the owner. Some parts of our windvane are way yellowish - I clean the thing now and then but otherwise I let it be.

Where I believe keeping the SS in its stainless state counts most is various structural elements where corrosion would lead to loss of performance, failure or dramatic, if delayed, repair costs.

Myself, if I could get bronze fittings, I would use them more thoroughly in my boat - I had to replace some SS things that came with the boat (and we are only 10 years down the road!). However, all bronze elements that came with the boat look exactly how they did at day one!

So to say, keep your equipment to the standards that are safe, inexpensive, and please your eye. After all, we have our boats for ourselves, not for others!

Cheers,
b.

[zeehag]

true dat, b-
-i find my 304 is much prettier and burlier than my 316--the 316 was prone to cracks in the bends, but the 304 is gorgeous....

smooth sailing.

[captainKJ]

Originally Posted by edbulmer

Anyone know of the best product to get rid of small rust stains, and grime on the stainless rails?

WINK works very good. You will find it in the laundry department at your local supermarket. It was made for clothing but works VERY good on stainless, paint, aluminum and such to remove rust. Some mega yachts use it

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by Dennis.G

Can someone 'splain what passivating is?

Stainless steel needs a surface layer of oxide to protect it from corrosion. Wichinox is a paste containing phosphoric acid that promotes formation of the protective oxide layer (passivation).

[Dennis.G]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

Stainless steel needs a surface layer of oxide to protect it from corrosion. Wichinox is a paste containing phosphoric acid that promotes formation of the protective oxide layer (passivation).

Thanks.

I found an article (howtobrew.com) that said if you clean ss with a cleanser containing oxalic acid (eg. Bartenders friend), then rinse with water, and dry with a clean towel the ss will "repassivate itself". Sounds too easy, but like something I could do!