How to attach SS strip to rubrail???

[skipmac]

Getting down to fixing some of the cosmetic damages inflicted by the PO on my poor boat. Current project is replacing the stainless strip that runs down the side of the rub rail.

The stainless strips come in 20' sections and of course the damaged piece is in the middle. The old piece fit perfectly flush against the adjoining strips on each end. However, when I attached one end of the new piece and pulled it up against the rub rail there was almost 1/2" gap at the other end.

I measured and the new piece is exactly 20' and the gap is exactly 20'. The problem is the stainless strip is a bit wavy and stiff so I can't pull it hard enough to get the loose end flush. I can see two ways to try to deal with this.

1. Attach one end flush, lift the strip over the curved rub rail next to the hull so I have some extra slack, attach the other end flush and pull the middle of the strip back down over the edge of the rub rail.

2. Attach one end flush and work my way from that end, screwing in the rub rail which will push the strip flush and eliminate the slack and it will then be flush when I reach the other end.

Anyone ever do this before? Which method works or is there a third that I haven't thought about?

Thanks
Skip

[Cavalier]

Have you considered using g-clamps at each of the affixing points first? That way you can check how the fit will be before you replace each clamp in turn with a screw.


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[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Cavalier

Have you considered using g-clamps at each of the affixing points first? That way you can check how the fit will be before you replace each clamp in turn with a screw.


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Interesting idea. Could try it but it might take a lot of clamps to hold the strip tight against the rail. I could beg, borrow and steal may 5-8-10 more appropriate sized G-clamps but thinking it would take at least one per foot to get a good result. Hate to go spend another $50 or so on clamps I may never use again.

Also not sure how well the clamps would hold since the rub rail is tapered, wider against the hull and much narrower outboard so the clamps might tend to slide. And I don't want to leave little round clamp dents in the wood but could put shims under the clamps if they don't slip.

Going out to the boat shortly and will try a test with a couple of clamps I already have.

[bornyesterday]

Ideally explain to a shop with rollers what you need and it will take them just a few minutes to put a smooth curve on it.
If you have to do it by hand the waviness of the strip can be straightened to a smooth curve by careful, controlled beating.
More like tapping really.
If it's flat both sides beat it between flat steel bars to avoid hammer marks on the work.
This does of course reduce the effectiveness of each hammer blow by widening the area of impact - but that's what you want.
If the face is curved use hardwood that side so as not to mark it and beat from the back.
Practice on scrap first if you have some. It's going to take a while but it's not hard to get the hang of.
edit: resist the temptation to hit it directly with a hammer...