Bilge pump install with Check Valve?

[jsmiggs]

Have an older Morgan 30/2 that I would like to install a new bilge pump on. It came with a rule 500 that runs out a sea cock in the bottom. Have to open sea cock before running pump. It is wired to main dc panel with simple on off.

I purchased a new Rule 2000, a separate float switch and picked up a three position dedicated switch with a fuse and light. I also plan to run to a new thru hull on transom above water line.

My question is.....Is a check valve a good idea in this situation?

Was recommend by a sales associate at West Marine.

It is my understanding that this reduces output of the pump considerably, but it does help prevent pump cycling though which saves on pump and batteries.

[JK n Smitty]

Originally Posted by jsmiggs

Have an older Morgan 30/2 that I would like to install a new bilge pump on. It came with a rule 500 that runs out a sea cock in the bottom. Have to open sea cock before running pump. It is wired to main dc panel with simple on off.

I purchased a new Rule 2000, a separate float switch and picked up a three position dedicated switch with a fuse and light. I also plan to run to a new thru hull on transom above water line.

My question is.....Is a check valve a good idea in this situation?

Was recommend by a sales associate at West Marine.

It is my understanding that this reduces output of the pump considerably, but it does help prevent pump cycling though which saves on pump and batteries.

Read the manual. It says check valves are not recommended.

[jsmiggs]

Yes. I read manual. They recommend a vented loop.

Was just asking if anyone had experience with and if was good or bad.

[JK n Smitty]

Check valves become a potential problem point. The can fail closed and help sink your boat. My Catalina came with a check valve installed from the factory. I am changing from the rule to a diaphragm pump. It will eliminate the check valve and prevent the cycling issue I have now.

[sailr69]

Originally Posted by jsmiggs

Yes. I read manual. They recommend a vented loop.

Was just asking if anyone had experience with and if was good or bad.

have been using a check valve for 21 years, why not? there is no way a siphon can happen. it is best if you use a smooth inside hose however. don't let the doomsayers tell you anything.

[beetle]

Do not depend upon a check valve to prevent inflow of water via siphon when the pump is not running. Put in a vented loop well above the water line (Forespar makes some decent quality Marelon vented loops).

If you want, you can put a check valve in the exhaust hose near the pump to try and keep the water that is in the hose prior to the vented loop (which would otherwise flow back into the bilge area you're pumping out) in the hose.

Note that a check valve does restrict the outflow of water, so adding a check valve does reduce to some degree the volume of water the pump can push.

- rob/beetle

[TDC]

Would NOT put a check valve. I had one and once the pressure of 10' of water was standing on it, the pump could not open it, ie not good for not sinking.

The solution for excessive backflow is to install a small pump deeper than the large one.

[jsmiggs]

Thinking of putting in secondary 1500 wired to second house battery in the event of failure. I know its over kill...but have seen boats go down. Would rather avoid.

Another 100.00 is cheap compared to many things.

[JK n Smitty]

Originally Posted by jsmiggs

Thinking of putting in secondary 1500 wired to second house battery in the event of failure. I know its over kill...but have seen boats go down. Would rather avoid.

Another 100.00 is cheap compared to many things.

How would you charge that second house bank? Now you might be talking about a costly add if you don't have an easy way to charge the additional bank.

Also, if you got a rule manual float switch, return it. Get the water witch electronic switch. The rules haven't been very good since they had to remove the mercury.

[HopCar]

I would try it without the check valve first and see if the hose holds enough water to cause the pump to cycle on and off. If it doesn't cycle you're good.

If it does cycle, raise it up a few inches and make your 500 the primary bilge pump. The 3/4" hose on the 500 won't hold enough water to cause the pump to cycle. If the incoming water is more than the 500 can handle the 2000 will kick on.

Do move the hose for the 500 to an above waterline thru-hull.

Install a vented loop if there is any concern that the discharge thru-hulls might end up underwater.