Best wax or UV protectant for gel coat

[ronbo1]

Rejex is the polymer I use over newly buffed Awlgrip paint. Rejex is more effective than Awlcare in my experience.
If you have Awlgrip try test buffing a small section.
After 17 years my dark green hull looks fine. Sure it can use a recoat but no rush as it has a high gloss.
If your Awlgrip has been over-buffed and burned through in the past you can’t save it.

Ronbo

[SpringHollow]

I tried heavy compounding, polishing, and waxing on a chalky gel coat - looked great then started to chalk again. Since I had nothing to lose, I applied 4 coats of the Zep High Gloss Floor Finish (very quick to apply) then 2 coats of the Poli Glow for UV protection, followed by 2 more coats of Zep's. Looks great so far and quickly applying a coat twice a year is not difficult. The longest/hardest step is washing the boat.

People mention how hard it is to remove the acrylic. Zep's floor stripper should remove it fairly easily. It did in a test area that I tried but maybe it is more difficult after the acrylic ages. I personally avoided the High Traffic version, worrying that it was harder to remove and maybe that was why some had a hard time with removal and others found it easy to do.

[Oyster406]

Rob,

I've been using A-Glaze on my 30 year old boat for 3 years now. The final coat is a polymer sealant that lasts the full 12 months, need to do nothing to the hull between times. The Marina staff couldn't believe the change in the boat when I took her back in after the first application. It was recommended to me by another "older Oyster" owner.

https://www.marineaglaze.com/

(I've got no link - just a happy customer).

Cheers

Kevin

[CarlF]

So what other opinions are out there about Rejex?

I only recently switched from Colinite wax two years ago. It seems to have lasted longer than wax but I consider the jury still out. I am surprised by how many cruisers seems to be using Rejex - especially in Florida.

It went on MUCH easier. No buffer. About 1/3 the time. Just wipe on and wipe off. I quickly learned that you can't leave it on too long before wiping off or it hardens too much. You also have to keep the coats very thin. The instructions said to leave it 15 minutes but I found 5 minutes was just as shiny and much easier on my arm. Maybe it depends on the humidity.

The hardest part was the Collinite fiberglass cleaner first step. If the hull still looks shiny, next time, I'm going to try just spot cleaning with the cleaner and then a quick soap and water wash and see if it last as long.

I put on two coats the first time but only one coat the second. If one coat holds up almost as long as two, I'll go with that in the future.

[s/v Jedi]

I use RejeX and like it. It lasts about twice as long as a good wax. I also put it on the stainless steel

[scarlet]

I'm going to use "Sea-Shield Nano coating"... They have another product called "exhaust guard" You can add the exhaust guard on top of the nano coating for additional protection. . And you can use it on everything on your boat, from gelcoat.. to metal... and glass. I think you can even use it on rubber and plastic..