Starting 75 HP Yanmare Turbo Diesel after 18 years in storage

[a64pilot]

It’s not a bad idea to have the air filter off and either a board, or a hard backed book to cover the intake, just in case it runs away.
Starve it for air, and it can’t run, but it will suck a rag or towel in, and or the vacuum is so low it will cause damage to your hand, so don’t put your hand over it.

[Ericson38]

The point about cranking the engine with the starter (after hand cranking first and also before the new oil and filter) without the injectors is good, as you need to build up oil pressure in the engine before subjecting it to real internal cyclic loads.

Make sure the dipstick shows full, there are a lot posts on 4JH engines and the dipstick oil levels.


Pull the screen off the turbo inlet and make sure AFTER you have pre pressure lubed the engine that the turbo spins with your finger. No tools and don't force it.

[Dymaxion]

Would be nice to know if the engine had been fogged/pickled before shut down. A shutdown otherwise invites rusting. Regardless, there will be rust on every interior surface. Rings may be rusted onto the bores, cam faces, rockers etc. I'd pull the valve cover for an eyeballing, scope the bores (you can get boroscopes that plug into your smart phone) The trans gears will be rusty if not submerged in oil...

If you can turn it over by hand that's a start. As mentioned, put some oil down the injector holes. If you're creative you can set up a pre-oiler pump hooked into the oil pressure sender hole and start pumping oil into the galleys. You should see fresh oil appearing at rockers etc in the head. Then I'd spin it up with the starter, injectors removed. I'll guarantee your first oil change, which you should do before actually firing it up will produce rust laden oil. Colour is obvious. You want the turbo bearings well oiled with fresh oil before firing it up. Bottom line, being a gearhead anal nerd on reviving this engine and spending maybe $200-300 may save a $20K engine. I like them odds.

[seabreez]

[QUOTE=If you can turn it over by hand that's a start. As mentioned, put some oil down the injector holes. If you're creative you can set up a pre-oiler pump hooked into the oil pressure sender hole and start pumping oil into the galleys. You should see fresh oil appearing at rockers etc in the head. Then I'd spin it up with the starter, injectors removed. I'll guarantee your first oil change, which you should do before actually firing it up will produce rust laden oil. Colour is obvious. You want the turbo bearings well oiled with fresh oil before firing it up. Bottom line, being a gearhead anal nerd on reviving this engine and spending maybe $200-300 may save a $20K engine. I like them odds.[/QUOTE]

Do not oil down the injector hole! This will fill the top of the piston where the pre ignition chamber is located and therefore will not lubricate the cylinder wall or rings. What this will do is increase the compression pressure and might blow head gaskets. If the engine was left not fogged, it is greased enough to prevent rusting. This is a diesel not gas engine. By turning over the engine the oil pressure will build up sooner than later and will pressurize the system before it starts. Keep it simple. do not create more damage than there is.

[Dymaxion]

Originally Posted by seabreez

Do not oil down the injector hole! This will fill the top of the piston where the pre ignition chamber is located and therefore will not lubricate the cylinder wall or rings. What this will do is increase the compression..... snip.

Not sure how you'll get any compression built up with the injectors removed... you could get a face full of oil if you happen to be staring down at the engine and cranking with the starter though. Best put a rag over top. 18 years is a long time to sit and expect things to be rust free, unless a thick layer of Cosmoline was somehow brushed onto every bare metal surface inside.

[seabreez]

Originally Posted by Dymaxion

Not sure how you'll get any compression built up with the injectors removed... you could get a face full of oil if you happen to be staring down at the engine and cranking with the starter though. Best put a rag over top. 18 years is a long time to sit and expect things to be rust free, unless a thick layer of Cosmoline was somehow brushed onto every bare metal surface inside.

OK, so now you are telling me that the engine turns over? So why remove the injectors? So if the engine is turning over, was that before you added oil? A process of ellimination here... narrow down the problem and then I can help...

[Dymaxion]

Originally Posted by seabreez

OK, so now you are telling me that the engine turns over? So why remove the injectors? So if the engine is turning over, was that before you added oil? A process of ellimination here... narrow down the problem and then I can help...

I prefer to be woken up gently by someone, over getting a bucket of cold water in the face. Since the internal engine condition is unknown, I'd assume the worst case and try a gentle wakeup that doesn't create new and possibly catastrophic damage. The problem is extent of rust. A cold engine has the greatest tolerances, if started up full of rust and taken to full heat the tolerances will tighten up and the rust may bind things up leading to something breaking. Taking out the injectors will avoid developing any compression while turning it over by hand initially. Takes the loads off of the big and little end bearings as well as lateral forces of piston against cylinder walls. Also makes life easier and you can feel the condition of the sliding bits inside. If the engine makes it through half a dozen revolutions by hand without any noticeably bad/binding positions then that's one bit of feedback on its condition. The oil put down the injector holes will have been spread over the cylinders pistons and rings. But no oil pressure will have been built up so the bearings and cams will still be dry. That's why I suggested the pre-oiler step. Or skip that and spin it up with the starter in short bursts until the oil warning light goes out. This will oil the parts that need it, unless passages are gummed. The post on turning the turbo around with fingertips was spot on, its bearings should have received oil by now. About now is when I'd dump the oil as the piston rings will have scraped any rust off the cylinders, leaving it in the oil. To keep being anal, get a compression tester next and go through the cylinders. This will give a general engine check, and will pickup any sticking valves or other issues. After that, put it back together and fire it up briefly. Hopefully the injector pump is fully working, along with water pumps. After a couple of brief runs without issue, let it run until normal temps are reached and idle is strong/steady. Then dump the oil and filter and replace both. Should be good to go once the oil change is done.
I get the feeling you are suggesting to put a wrench on the crank pulley nut and turn it over a couple of times, then hit the starter and see what happens next. That's your choice, the above is mine. Nothing more to add.

[Ericson38]

Originally Posted by Dymaxion

I prefer to be woken up gently by someone, over getting a bucket of cold water in the face. Since the internal engine condition is unknown, I'd assume the worst case and try a gentle wakeup that doesn't create new and possibly catastrophic damage. The problem is extent of rust. A cold engine has the greatest tolerances, if started up full of rust and taken to full heat the tolerances will tighten up and the rust may bind things up leading to something breaking. Taking out the injectors will avoid developing any compression while turning it over by hand initially. Takes the loads off of the big and little end bearings as well as lateral forces of piston against cylinder walls. Also makes life easier and you can feel the condition of the sliding bits inside. If the engine makes it through half a dozen revolutions by hand without any noticeably bad/binding positions then that's one bit of feedback on its condition. The oil put down the injector holes will have been spread over the cylinders pistons and rings. But no oil pressure will have been built up so the bearings and cams will still be dry. That's why I suggested the pre-oiler step. Or skip that and spin it up with the starter in short bursts until the oil warning light goes out. This will oil the parts that need it, unless passages are gummed. The post on turning the turbo around with fingertips was spot on, its bearings should have received oil by now. About now is when I'd dump the oil as the piston rings will have scraped any rust off the cylinders, leaving it in the oil. To keep being anal, get a compression tester next and go through the cylinders. This will give a general engine check, and will pickup any sticking valves or other issues. After that, put it back together and fire it up briefly. Hopefully the injector pump is fully working, along with water pumps. After a couple of brief runs without issue, let it run until normal temps are reached and idle is strong/steady. Then dump the oil and filter and replace both. Should be good to go once the oil change is done.
I get the feeling you are suggesting to put a wrench on the crank pulley nut and turn it over a couple of times, then hit the starter and see what happens next. That's your choice, the above is mine. Nothing more to add.

Good post. What is the rush anyway, the engine is worth a lot of money, and a week or so of careful prep is fully warranted. It has sit a long time till now, take it easy. If you haven't touched it yet, a pre-oiler through the oil pressure sender unit port is a great idea. Use it before you spin it up.


So is there coolant in it now ? Possible that Murphy isn't done with his chances on this engine yet, so a stuck thermostat and raw water impeller check would be on my list. The alternator belt should be removed so you can feel for roughness in the fresh water pump bearings. The seals could leak once you start it up, so don't be disappointed if they do (water pump that is).

[a64pilot]

A pre-Oiler can be as simple as a garden sprayer, it doesn’t take a whole lot, your trying to establish oil flow, not so much high pressure.
Although I do agree with the post of pull the valve cover and slather oil all over the rocker arms, it also allows you visually inspect for rust an any stuck valves when you roll her over.

[Ericson38]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

A pre-Oiler can be as simple as a garden sprayer, it doesn’t take a whole lot, your trying to establish oil flow, not so much high pressure.
Although I do agree with the post of pull the valve cover and slather oil all over the rocker arms, it also allows you visually inspect for rust an any stuck valves when you roll her over.

and it puts some oil on the cam and lifter so you don't wipe a cam lobe.

[AKA-None]

At this point I would treat the cam as if it were new and slather molybdenum over all the lobes. It hurts nothing and potentially saves the cam and lifters from premature wear. Pulling the injectors and spinning the engine to move oil around is an excellent move. Please note my experience is gas related but at this point the fuel source doesn’t make any difference. Remember you are trying to get oil moved to where it hasn’t been in years. Oh and double check the oil is feeding the turbo, don’t ask how I learned that one.

[a64pilot]

Problem is getting to the cam lobes.
You should be able to pour oil down the push rods and soak them with oil that way, it’s not Moly be Damn, but it’s at least not dry.
Usually Diesels due to their mild cams and relatively slow speeds have rather weak valve springs, so usually can wear isn’t nearly as bad as it is in some gas motors.

[Wotname]

The valve gear is at the top of the engine and gravity works against long term static lubrication.

Lets hope the OP doesn't see a sight like this - this engine has been sitting for awhile... and it is a good reason to pop the valve cover first!

Of course it is recoverable but...

[flyingfin]

No such thing as "winterized for 18 years", you must be thinking of Rip Van Winkle. Assume the motor is toast and bid on the vessel accordingly. Assume you buy it, price in pulling the motor and delivering it to shop for a full re-build. If you could get it started, the crankshaft and wrist pin bearings (which have been slowly rusting away) will ruin your day after the first 20 hours of running. And most engines usually die while in the middle of an inlet, not at the dock.

[birdsey]

Sounds like good advice!