Replacement Engine Prices

[leftbrainstuff]

Originally Posted by GILow

Ted,

I have recently witnessed people paying VASTLY different prices depending on how much of the work they do themselves.

I just saw an invoice, issued out of Sydney on a client's boat, for two 60HP diesels, Kubota conversions I think, for $12K each (no transmissions but including instrument panels), but then the same invoice had an installation cost for the engines of nearly $20K each. (Yes, that was $20K for EACH engine, $40K total install cost, PLUS the engines.) That was from a big Sydney boat outfit, with a good reputation.

Contrast this with a local guy at our club who bought a 15HP (Nanni I think, or maybe he was removing the Nanni and putting something else in...) for $6K with transmission and panel and installed it himself, I think he ran up about $1K in hoses, fittings etc. And he seems pretty purist and fussy, I don't think that would have been a shoddy conversion.

Someone else I know paid $40K odd to have an 85HP installed in their boat semi recently. I don't know if that included the gearbox.

Finally, I have priced a changeover engine for our boat, (just in case, as far as I know our engine is ok) from a truck spares place in NSW, and they can provide me with a long block non-marinised version of our 96HP engine for $2500 with a reasonable warranty, and the only other costs will be whatever I cannot recycle from the original marinisation. Realistically I would have to say there's gonna be a grand or two there if I am unlucky, and practically no cost at all if all the bits are still ok (manifold, heat exchanger and water pump">raw water pump.).

So, not sure if any of that helps, except to maybe suggest that self install, if practical, is a good price option.

Matt

Captive market in Australia and costs are very high relative to overseas. We did a comparison cost, just for fun, between costs in the US and Australia. Scary. Luckily we bought and refitted our Liberty 458 on the US West Coast.

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[sailorchic34]

When I rebuilt my yanmar engine last year, most of the inside bits, pistons, rings, bearings were not too spendy. Engine mounts were costly at $300 for two. But I came away with only $1000 total including $280 in machining and a $80 special tool custom made. Labor was provided by some crazy blonde chic who only went slightly crazy during the process.

Engine rebuilding is actually not that hard and does not require a huge tool chest. Putting a 3 or 4 cylinder engine together from parts is only a two day event. Of course getting it back into the engine bay and hooked up takes more time.

Though I do hear that VP is really proud of their parts.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

Labor was provided by some crazy blonde chic who only went slightly crazy during the process.

Ah... What price shall we pay for our sanity? Well, as it turns out, probably a lot more in Oz as noted by LBS. But I suspect from your posts on the matter that you enjoyed the task which is most important of all.

Matt


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[Sweetchariot]

Hi,

just repowered my Swanson 32 with a Beta 30hp. The old Volvo Penta 2003 seized so rather than rebuild I went for a complete re power. When I say complete I mean complete. I changed every component that was attached to the old engine with brand new parts. This even went as far as replacing the fuel tank, fuel lines etc. Like a previous post I also had to change the propellor due to different rotation direction from the Volvo. All up including slipping fees (to remove/replace the prop), motor and everything else I was left with little change from $15k. Did it all myself so there were no labour charges involved.

The change over can be read on my blog - www.sweetchariot.blog.com.

Hi Gilow, fancy seeing you here.

Steve

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Sweetchariot

Hi,

just repowered my Swanson 32 with a Beta 30hp. The old Volvo Penta 2003 seized so rather than rebuild I went for a complete re power. When I say complete I mean complete. I changed every component that was attached to the old engine with brand new parts. This even went as far as replacing the fuel tank, fuel lines etc. Like a previous post I also had to change the propellor due to different rotation direction from the Volvo. All up including slipping fees (to remove/replace the prop), motor and everything else I was left with little change from $15k. Did it all myself so there were no labour charges involved.

The change over can be read on my blog - www.sweetchariot.blog.com.

Hi Gilow, fancy seeing you here.

Steve

Cool Steve. I enjoyed the read. What model volvo did you have?

[downunder]

When I priced Beta 12 months ago they were very favorably priced against Yanmars.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by downunder

When I priced Beta 12 months ago they were very favorably priced against Yanmars.

Well, I haven't had time to try today, but on Friday I gave up trying to ring the Australian supplier of Beta and the phone was just ringing out. And so far I've not received an email response either. Not very encouraging.

[Sweet Chariot]

Originally Posted by tedsherrin

Cool Steve. I enjoyed the read. What model volvo did you have?

It was a M2003 28hp 3 cylinder. Suspect about 1990 vintage.
Steve

[Pauls]

If it is possible for you to use an industrial diesel, instead of a marine version, you can save a lot of money. My boat is powered with a Cummins 3.3L turbo diesel rated at 85 hp, which I have derated to 64 hp by dropping the RPMs. Engine cost $4500, brand new with a warranty from Cummins. Trans is a rebuilt BW 72, $1800. Adapter plate, drive plate, mounts were a few hundred.

One of the advantages of a metal boat is that it is easy to keel cool, eliminating the need for the raw water pump, heat exchanger and water cooled exhaust manifold which is what constitutes a marine conversion of a basic engine.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Sweet Chariot

It was a M2003 28hp 3 cylinder. Suspect about 1990 vintage.
Steve

I'm not sure about the 'M' and mine is a Turbo, but otherwise the same engine. Do you still have any parts of it left or did you dispose of it?

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Pauls

If it is possible for you to use an industrial diesel, instead of a marine version, you can save a lot of money. My boat is powered with a Cummins 3.3L turbo diesel rated at 85 hp, which I have derated to 64 hp by dropping the RPMs. Engine cost $4500, brand new with a warranty from Cummins. Trans is a rebuilt BW 72, $1800. Adapter plate, drive plate, mounts were a few hundred.

One of the advantages of a metal boat is that it is easy to keel cool, eliminating the need for the raw water pump, heat exchanger and water cooled exhaust manifold which is what constitutes a marine conversion of a basic engine.

I recently went on a Halong Bay Cruise in Vietnam. Whilst these large boats look so luxurious on the outside and inside public areas, it's commonly a different picture down stairs. I asked and eventually convinced the captain on mine to let me see the engine. He was really suspicious as no one had ever asked before, but after telling him I was into boats he sent me down stairs with a steward. What I saw really shocked me. A converted old truck engine, with a truck gear box, gears and all. Something around a 500hp. Oil was pissing out everywhere into tray's underneath it, which they were clearly just draining back into the engine. Beside it was an old engine block that had been stripped down. Not sure if it was one they were wanting to do up or if it was a previous exchange which they simply couldn't get out of the engine room. To my eyes, it looked like they had connected up raw water in place of radiator, though the fan was still connected to it. This large cruise boat which had eight cabins for paying visitors, had no instruments at all, just switches for lights, steering wheel and forward and reverse lever in the wheel house. Turning was to extreemities, so it was all the way to the left and all the way to the right, so the vessel snaked along at what I'd guess was a top of about 4 knotts. No chart plotter, no depth, speed, oil, temp or anything else in the wheel house. Very amusing.

[Pauls]

Yeah, welcome to the third world! I spent a good deal of time in Asia doing engineering projects. I saw so much screwed up, bad, dangerous, fouled up stuff that eventually I felt that nothing new could surprise me. Not true though, it still happened. Mans inventive ability is almost limitless, both in good and bad ways.

Good luck with your project.

[Matt Johnson]

I understand about the compression issues, but have you looked into an aftermarket turbo or a turbo rebuild. Depending on its size, they can be purchased cheap/rebuilt...just look for a performance car tuner and ask who does theirs.

[banjoship]

Originally Posted by tedsherrin

Well, I haven't had time to try today, but on Friday I gave up trying to ring the Australian supplier of Beta and the phone was just ringing out. And so far I've not received an email response either. Not very encouraging.

WM Diesel in Sydney marinise Kubota engines

Witchards Marine - inboard diesel engine manufacturers for yacht or motor boat - WM Diesel.

I found the proprietor John Witchard, most helpful when I repowered with a 68 hp WM diesel in 2009. At the time, they were way cheaper than Beta and Nanni, for the same base V3300 Kubota engine.

Very pleased with my engine.

Lee

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

I understand about the compression issues, but have you looked into an aftermarket turbo or a turbo rebuild. Depending on its size, they can be purchased cheap/rebuilt...just look for a performance car tuner and ask who does theirs.

I can't find an after market at all, but I can find plenty of new volvo's from ITS, which are the company that makes them for volvo and a lot of other engines including car turbo's. The cost is still a considerable concern as I'd still be looking at close to $1800 which I'm just not comfortable that it's worth 'continuing' to spend that amount of money on. Keeping in mind that I've already spent over a grand this year with a replacement after market heat exchanger and header tank and fittings.

As for a rebuild, that's what we are now doing, but that will only buy me 'time' as the housing is warn where the turbine has been rubbing on the walls. But, a rebuild should buy me a couple of years to save up for a new engine.

If I could be assured of the integrity of everything else on the engine, then spending two g's on a good engine is I think worth it. But I'm not convinced mine is worth it, not if the compression is indicating it will need another rebuild in a year or so. Got to know when to stop spending on band aids.