Removal Technique?

[markpj23]

Contemplating exactly how I will remove the genset & main (possibly) for rework. "Standard" center cockpit configuration with the engine room beneath the cockpit - solid cockpit floor with no access to the engine room below.

So I imagine that I'll remove the companionway, then do a "jack up and slide forward" manuever to bring them into the salon, then hoist out through the companionway.

Either that or build some sort of A-Frame in the engine room so I can lift and then pull FWD into the salon.

Last resort would be to cut the cockpit floor for access, then build / glass in a support structure to which the cockpit floor would be fastened. (Don't like the sound of this one...)

Here's what I'm looking at. Anyone have any other ideas / experiences to share?

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by markpj23

Contemplating exactly how I will remove the genset & main (possibly) for rework. "Standard" center cockpit configuration with the engine room beneath the cockpit - solid cockpit floor with no access to the engine room below.

So I imagine that I'll remove the companionway, then do a "jack up and slide forward" manuever to bring them into the salon, then hoist out through the companionway.

Either that or build some sort of A-Frame in the engine room so I can lift and then pull FWD into the salon.

Last resort would be to cut the cockpit floor for access, then build / glass in a support structure to which the cockpit floor would be fastened. (Don't like the sound of this one...)

Yo Mark,

lots of builders get this wrong.

They don't make provisions for the inevitable repower/rebuild. Now's your chance to correct the builder's error. Although there's always a way to drag it out through the companionway, had the builders created a "soft patch" your job would be a lot easier now. With some planning, you could make a neat job of cutting out a removable section of the cockpit sole, and devise a way to reinstall it as a soft patch.

In a recent project, I installed one of those aluminum workboat manhole hatches directly over the engine to facilitate removal for overhaul. Now access for routine maintenance is much more pleasurable as well.

best, andy

[never monday]

I like these tools for this situation.

[markpj23]

Aw c'mon Pat... I thought you'd have built some exotic tools for this by now

[delmarrey]

Having rigged out a couple motors, pumps and other machinery, I can tell you it is a lot more fun then grinding and sanding fiberglass.

You just need support beams, come-a-longs, sliders, jacks, wheeled carts and pry bars, as well as a good patient friend.

The smart thing it to strip it of all the attachments (alternator, pumps starter, exhaust & etc). They are coming off anyway. On the way back in you can re-install the pieces that are hard to get to when it's in place.

The lighter it is, the easier it is to move around. Even pulling the head is an option.

Old pieces of carpet work great to cushion corners from getting damaged. And old plywood for the decks.

Just make a party of it and take your time! Spend time thinking of how. Use the brain muscle, not the back.
.................................................. .........._/)

[Alan Wheeler]

I want to echo the comment of protecting that floor. Carpet and then ply. There are two ways to do this. Three if you follow Pats advise. But lets go back to the two:-)
1: Jack the engine up and slide rails underneath so as you can slide the engine sideways out. Then hoist up through companoinway.
2: Bolt a steel rail over top of the engine that you can place a roller car on top of. Jack up engine and chain to roller car and then slide sideways. Lower to floor and remove rail etc. Lift out through companoinway.

By the way, obviousley all that engine room side frame work and door is going to have to go.

[markpj23]

Wheels I think you've given me the idea that will make this one easy!!

I have more than enough vertical clearance over the engine to run a steel bar longitudinally. I will have to remove the companionway steps of course and the hot water heater etc that sits behind them. That gives me clear (and tall) access to the fwd part of the engine room.

I have enough clearance aft of the main engine that the feet of an A-Frame can sit there - or if need be there is an access panel from the aft cabin to the engine room. I could put the A-frame feet in the aft cabin if need be.

So the salon would support the front A-Frame feet, a steel beam goes above the engine/genset on centerline, and the aft A-frame support feet are either in the after engine room or aft cabin. A come-along or 2 and a trolley should allow me to lift them off the mounts and roll them forward along the beam into the salon.

Now to find the steel... and maybe learn to weld in the meantime...
I figure 400 lbs is about the weight of the main engine.. so I'll build to handle that.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

[never monday]

Figure closer to 500-550 for the engine dressed with the trans.

I agree striping it down is the way to go.

[delmarrey]

Schedule 80 or 120 pipe make good beams, and cheaper too. I have an aluminum H beam that has a small trolley. But alum. is expensive.

Once you've done it, you'll say it wasn't all that bad!

4 come-a-long's, the beams and plenty of wood with saws.

Getting it off the boat could be done even with the boom PROVIDING your rig is heavy enough. If you're comfortable enough hang a couple big guys from the boom and swing out over the dock, it'll hold a stripped down motor.

Enjoy............................._/)