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Old 16-02-2014, 15:56   #1
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Perkins water entry via r/w pump

Hello all. My water pump">raw water pump bearings are/were shot and I am wondering if there is salt water entry into the engine if/when the salt water has made it past the bearings and shaft. What if anything do I need to do or check? Perkins/Westerbeke 4 107. Thank you in advance!
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Old 16-02-2014, 16:14   #2
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

shouldn't happen. The pump has a water seal, then an opening for water leaks to escape, then an oil seal.
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Old 16-02-2014, 17:05   #3
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

Thanks. There is a water seal then 2 bearings only. I have taken the pump apart. The pump shaft is scored so I will look to see if a speedy seal will work; if not, a new shaft, bearings and seal. The raw water was leaking from the weep holes but at a pretty good rate, so I was/am concerned if the water could make it's way into the timing chain area within the thin tin cover (which incidentally somewhat rusted on the lower portion no doubt do to the salt water exposure).
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Old 16-02-2014, 17:10   #4
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

Look in the sump - if it leaked, there will be water in the oil....
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Old 16-02-2014, 17:37   #5
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

Thanks Matt. Pardon my ignorance. The oil on the dipstick looks "normal" to me; would it be obvious if there was water in the oil by looking at the dipstick or is there some other way to clearly see water? Any major things to know or do if there is indeed water in the oil? Hope to repair the water pump tomorrow, restart the engine and change oil.
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Old 16-02-2014, 17:54   #6
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

If it looks normal, black or clear you're all good. If it's brown, foamy (or not black), take a pic and post it here!
If it has water in it, you'll have to change the oil, possibly several times, until all trace is gone. Oil filter as well.
When you took the pump off, it's possible, if you cannot find the oil seal, that it stayed on the engine. The way it works is, the water pump is sealed by a water seal (same as an oil seal), then the shaft goes thru the encased bit towards the engine, and the oil seal is on the engine side. The little hole in the shaft casing is there to let water (or oil) out, so you know a seal has gone, and which one. While it's in bits, change both, they are cheap!
Cheers
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Old 16-02-2014, 17:57   #7
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

Oh, and when you replace the seals, if you are in doubt, the seal side with the spring ALLWAYS goes to the side that contacts the fluid you are trying to seal. Sometimes the water seals fail because the little spring rusts thru (salt water!) - you can fix that by replacing the spring with a suitably sized O ring...
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:03   #8
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

I'm in Frazier Hog Bahamas awaiting weather. I notice the other day when doing my daily check on engine oil, etc., water in the sump. I started the engine and sure enough it is leaking from the week hole on raw water pump. I have the Minor Rebuild kit which has the seal. My question is should I rebuild here where I have very limited access to parts or help if needed or is it ok to make the run to Nassau where I could if necessary get parts or a pump shipped in.

My concern is Murphy's Law getting envolved. Advice appreciated.

Bill

By the way this is a Sherwood pump on a Perkins 4.108.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:51   #9
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

Not sure if yours is driven inline, and by the camshaft. If it is, the pump should be installed finger tight, and the engine rolled over to allow the driving/driven surfaces to float to their best clearances. Then tighten. This is absolutely necessary with the W/beke W46 series. Just a thought !!.
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:10   #10
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Re: Perkins water entry via r/w pump

I just completed the rebuild of my raw water pump (Sherwood F 85) on a Westerbeke 4-107. I would say this is a job you can do anywhere. Here is what I did and so far so good.
1. Remove pump and impeller.
2. Using a hammer and block of hardwood, tap out the old shaft with bearings (x2) and seal (x1); vise to press out would be great.
3. Clean body and cover of pump to prep for paint and new gasket.
4. Check shaft for any scoring/wear. My pump shaft was scored so rather than replace, I purchased a Speedi Sleeve to slide over the shaft after the 2 new bearings were pressed on.
5. Press/tap new bearings onto shaft using a short piece of pipe just larger than shaft so you are pressing on inner race of bearings. Be sure the bearings are square to the shaft. If you can warm the bearings and freeze the shaft prior to assembly, the bearings may slide on easier.
6. I put a Speedi Sleeve on the shaft next, over the scored area where the seal sits; this is an extra step.
7. Cool the bearings and shaft then press/tap the entire assembly into the pump body.
8. Press seal onto shaft into pump making sure the open side of the seal is on the water/pressure side/impeller side. O-ring suggested in a previous post was a great idea I think and I did follow this suggestion.
9. Replace impeller, gasket, cover and repaint.
Hope this helps.
Gordon
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