DIY Mixing elbow

[Irish rambler]

The only thing I would add to the discussion is that when you get around to buying the Stainless parts to make another, I would use butt welded fittings, a screwed fitting has the thickness of the metal reduced by the threading. Get the fabricator to 'pickle' the welds ie. paint them with acid to remove the slag and stop any rust forming.
Either 304 or 316 grade Stainless are acceptable, personally I recommend and only use 316.

[natew]

Thanks Guy and Cole for the tip. I did wrap it with the DEI titanium exhaust wrap (doesn't actually contain any metal I don't think: Titanium Exhaust Wrap with LR Technology 010128 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products), to keep the heat in as well as to keep the heat off of nearby parts.

[crzhors]

Howdy, Down here in Bocas Del Toro, we are fabricating most Elbows out of SS,custom wrapped in header wrap $250.-$350. Those VolvoPentas and Yanmars are notorious.
Cmon Down!

[Steve Bean]

I have a Universal Model 40. I used 1 1/4" galvanized pipe. There's an 18" riser before the water injection. It does get hot; someday I may wrap it with some copper tubing and try to heat some water. Any comments?

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by Steve Bean

I have a Universal Model 40. I used 1 1/4" galvanized pipe. There's an 18" riser before the water injection. It does get hot; someday I may wrap it with some copper tubing and try to heat some water. Any comments?

That should work with a small pump to circulate water. I might add a small 1/2" pressure relief valve (watts 53L), teed into the return line and discharge piped to bilge, Sized for 50 psig ish, so on the off chance the coil sits without flow and it makes steam, that there is a place for the steam to go too, without finding another way out. Steam would be problematic.

[Steve Bean]

Thanks, sailorchic, I sure don't want any steam to get out of control!