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Old 02-01-2013, 03:05   #1
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De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

I've finally accepted it's time to pull out the Kanzaki KM2A transmission on my 2GM engine and deglaze the cones to fix the slipping, but I have a couple of questions.

1. Can the deglaze be done without disassembling the shaft to remove the cone clutch?

2. How many running hours does a deglaze last (assuming proper lubrication, shifter and cable adjustment etc)?

3. Does anyone have a link showing the detail of how to do the deglaze?

4. Would some low viscosity oil provide a temporary fix?

From the many stories on this I've heard, it seems it is more or less a routine maintenance job. Maybe not such a great design by Kanzaki?

Thanks, Lockie
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Old 03-01-2013, 15:31   #2
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

Come on guys, I need some help!
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Old 03-01-2013, 15:54   #3
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

There is an old thread here that discusses:

Replace KM2A

However, the critical link is broken. You can use this to get at least the text of the article:

Your Heading Goes Here

A copy of that text (so it is in one place):

The gearbox is quite a small unit and it is fixed to the engine by 8 bolts around the bell housing, 4 bolts on the prop shaft and releasing the control cable, easing the prop shaft gland we were able to slide the prop shaft back a couple of inches sufficient to allow the gearbox to move back and be lifted out. Not having the right tools on board I was able to put the gearbox into a carrier bag and take home with me.

Cleaning an area on the workshop bench, I drained the oil, removed the 4 bolts that held the control lever in place and removed it. The gearbox is accessed by removing the 8 bolts holding the bell housing to the gearbox, the jointing was just liquid cement so having removed the bell housing I could now see inside the gearbox. You need to be careful to protect the seals at each end, there are 3 shafts an input shaft, an intermediate shaft and the one that we are interested in the output shaft, which is recognised by being the largest and has a locknut on each end. Note: these nuts are left handed threads.

You need to clear the locking tab and using a long handle socket or torque wrench to remove the nuts. You will then need a puller to remove the roller bearings and collar (2) and the bearing inner race and collar (2). You should then be able to lay out the whole shaft on to a nice clean surface, clean the individual components and inspect for damage or wear. The main area’s to look at are the bearings and the drive cone. Having said earlier that the reverse gear seemed ok, I was hoping to reverse the drive cone if possible as I felt this was not as important as the forward gear but I found that the gearbox had been opened up previously and that the cone was worn both sides, however there was some grooving left on the cone with a possibility of reclaiming the contact surface.

The cone is moved in and out of the large gearing by the selector mechanism, the tapered surface of both forward and reverse gear were very shiny, possibly were they had been slipping ? I could not find any referance to this in the manual, so I decided to lap the tapered surface’s with some fine grinding paste ( I was surprised what a difference this made ) When fitting the tapered surfaces together they now locked 100 % and I felt that I had done the right thing.

All parts were then meticulously cleaned before starting to reassemble. You will need a piece of tube to knock the bearings and collars back on. If you have been careful you can reuse the seals and the locknuts, when fitted these need to be torqued up to approx 10 kg/m or 70 ft/lbs, check that all is ok before using liquid sealant and refitting the bell housing. Note: A Large vice is very helpful for stripping down and reassembling and don’t forget to relock the locknuts.

Before fitting the control mechanism, use the aperture as an inspection hole to see that the gears are turning and that the cone moves forward and backwards, you should now be able to fit the control mechanism, Check the O ring is ok and that the shifter which actually locates in the centre of the cone is set to its lowest point (it is possible to be 180 degrees out), loosely fit the 4 bolts, hand tight and fit the control lever to the correct angle.
Note : the bolts holding this plate are over size, allowing for movement to be able to adjust the control lever, so as you can set the same amount of lever movement forwards and backwards, when this is correct you can tighten the 4 bolts.

Before refitting the gearbox, check that the damper plate which is fitted to the flywheel is all ok, then you should be ready to fit the gearbox, lightly grease the spline on the input shaft and slide the gearbox back into position, fit and tighten the 8 bolts, you can then adjust and fit the control cable, put in the required amount of gear oil and secure the filler plug. Slide back the prop shaft and secure the 4 bolts, you should then be in a position to carry out operational tests. At this stage I found that I wanted to readjust the control lever movement and I found it was just as easy to remove the gearbox, lift it into the cockpit and do it rather than struggle in the engine locker. My friend then carried out some tests and found a big improvement, so how long had the cone been slipping ? I quite enjoyed doing the job although as you get older it is more difficult to get in and out of the engine compartments, a bottle of whiskey changed hands which was very nice and it saved my friend putting money into someone else’s kitty.
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Old 03-01-2013, 16:09   #4
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

Lockie, Check PM

As for temp repair how much growth is on bottom & prop. The prop loading is high on my boat this time of the year!!

Regards Bill
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:38   #5
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

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Lockie, Check PM

As for temp repair how much growth is on bottom & prop. The prop loading is high on my boat this time of the year!!

Regards Bill
Thanks Bill, pm'd you.

The bottom is up for a slip and A/F, but I keep the prop pretty clean so it's not that.

Cheers, lockie
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:42   #6
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

I noticed the shift lever on the KM2A has two holes for attachment of the shift cable. Mine was attached to the "outer" hole, so I tried attaching it to the "inner" hole. The inner hole is closer to the shift shaft, so it causes a greater movement of the shifter.

The clutch now takes up nicely with no slipping, but I am concerned that the extra shifter movement might mean that it is bearing on the cone groove too much and will wear itself, the cone, or both.

Can anyone advise please? It would be nice if this was the solution that let me avoid pulling it out, but I jight just be delaying the inevitable.

cheers, lockie
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:35   #7
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

Well, happy days - I pulled it out and deglazed the cone and gears, and now it works a treat. So easy now I know how!

The only difficult issue was undoing the nuts on the output shaft - I managed to lock the output flange in a vice, then needed a 1.5 meter lever to crack the nut (socket handle plus long bit of 1" water pipe.

Thanks for the help folks, lockie
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Old 15-10-2016, 09:41   #8
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

It helps to use an impact wrench on those nuts- I use an electric one commonly available cheaply here in the US from Harbor Freight Tools ($39.95 on sale), but an air tool would probably work even better. You can actually get the nuts loose without even having to hold the shaft tightly. When you tighten them, I suggest using a thread locker- I've seen the output shaft coupler come loose and slide off twice on these transmissions due to the nut coming loose.



Quote:
Originally Posted by lockie View Post
Well, happy days - I pulled it out and deglazed the cone and gears, and now it works a treat. So easy now I know how!

The only difficult issue was undoing the nuts on the output shaft - I managed to lock the output flange in a vice, then needed a 1.5 meter lever to crack the nut (socket handle plus long bit of 1" water pipe.

Thanks for the help folks, lockie
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Old 15-10-2016, 16:57   #9
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Re: De-glazing KM2A Clutch Cones

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Originally Posted by chetvaldes View Post
It helps to use an impact wrench on those nuts- I use an electric one commonly available cheaply here in the US from Harbor Freight Tools ($39.95 on sale), but an air tool would probably work even better. You can actually get the nuts loose without even having to hold the shaft tightly. When you tighten them, I suggest using a thread locker- I've seen the output shaft coupler come loose and slide off twice on these transmissions due to the nut coming loose.

Thanks chetvaldes, Very timely advise! Just about to replace the cone in one of my gearboxes.

Bill
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