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Old 29-03-2007, 09:50   #1
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Single point anchoring on multi's (no bridles)

I've always 'bought into' the use of bridles on moorings and the hook but have reconsidered that over this past year. I diligently rigged a bridle for my first 4-5 months on my 41' MC. Once, when moored to a ball in a snug mooring field I snugged it right up to the center of my fwd crossbeam. Boy, we sure 'veered' all night.

One night I observed a powerboat raft of 6-7 boats hanging on a single anchor. They rode even more steadily than I did on my bridle if somewhat off balance. I decided I'd try it 'off center' myself. I rode as good if not better than to the bridle. Subsequently, unless anchoring for a longer period of time, I now moor to mooring balls from the inboard side of one hull and for overnights or less, I anchor the same way. This also avoids interference with my double bobstays that brace my screecher sprit.

Has anyone else observed this or tried this? Is it unique to how my boat seems to ride? For severe weather, I'd most likely stick to the bridle arrangement especially since it is much larger diameter line passing through my chocks and adds chafe resistance as well as reduceds single point loads. But for regular summer overnights not so likely anymore. Thoughts?
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Old 29-03-2007, 10:32   #2
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I found on our Voyage 380 that if the bridal is to short the boat swings alot, even on anchor. I made up a set of bridal halves (25') that are permenatly attached to my bows and use them at the longest lengtht possible. It reduces our swing to almost nothing.

Beside providing a snubber action the bridal helps to keep the boat from swinging. As the angle of the boat changes relative to the wind ( beginning of the back and forth sailing) the pressure shifts from the center to one side changing the pull on the hull. If the boat starts to swing to port the starboard bridal lead starts to slack and all of the pressure is on the port. This shifts the pivot point to your port and changes the apparent angle of wind on the boat. The wind will then start to push more on the starboard side as it is brought to bare into the wind forcing it to swing back. If the lengths are balance and no other factors are involved the swing will gradually reduce until there is a balance.

At times when we were acnhored in a current off the wind we would shorten one of the leads to help balance aginst the wind and the current and it would steady up the boat.

I found generally the cats with the bridals we would sail a lot less on anchor or mooring becuase of this push pull than a lot on monos
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Old 29-03-2007, 10:50   #3
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Agree with the comments regarding purpose of bridle and its effect. I too, have used 25' legs successfully. What I'm finding however is that the single offset attachment point works equally well at minimizing sailing on the hook or mooring.
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Old 29-03-2007, 16:51   #4
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Our cat sails at anchor or mooring when wind and current oppose each other. At that time, I shorten the bridle so I don't bump the mooring ball all night.

Because I am a cat and often anchor in shallow areas, I like to keep the bridle short enough that it doesn't lay on the bottom in calm conditions.

I shorten up if in a crowded mooring field (Like Man-O-War, Bahamas) to stay clear of other boats.

I use the bridle to keep the load off the windlass as well as spreading the load between hulls and the snubber action. I am all chain on my primary anchor, so Tying to a cleat on one hull is not practical.

If I deploy a second anchor, I have king posts amid ship on the bow on which to tie the second rode.

As far as sailing around when current and wind are opposite, I may be worse than a full keel cruiser, but see fin keel mono-hulls having equal or great problems. After a strong blow between the Majors in the Bahamas, I decided that is how Hunters got their name.

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Old 29-03-2007, 18:00   #5
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I use a line to one of my bows sometimes. The stern anchor ot the same stern. Mooring also, seems to work fine. I have not tried it swinging on one hook.


Does anyone use a bridle on their line? I am trying to figure out how to do this. All that I can think of is using a jam cleat at the point where the bridle lines meet. My boat only has 50 feet of chain so often I go past it.

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Old 29-03-2007, 20:38   #6
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I use a bridle on a line. I have carabiner type hooks (good strong Wichard ones) on the end of my bridle lines for attaching to the anchor rode. When on chain, I simply hook them through a link. For the line, I put a shackle around a bight of the anchor line and hook the carabiner through the bight. The shackle provides friction similar to how a buckle works (the kind where the belt goes through one slot, over the top and into another slot) and prevents slippage.

I just reread what I wrote and realize that this is very difficult to describe in writing. Let me try another way: grab the anchor line where you want to attach the snubber, bend it into a U-shape bringing both legs of the U together, thus forming a small bight in the line. Put a shackle around the legs of the U so that the bight loop sticks through the shackle. Attach your snubber hook to this loop. The loop will try to pull back through the shackle but the snubber hook will prevent it. The shackle provides friction and all stays as is.

One simple picture would make this clear, but I don't have one. If you are still unclear, I will take a picture this weekend of what I mean.

Mark
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Old 30-03-2007, 08:50   #7
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That makes perfect sense! Thanks, I will have to experiment with it. I would love to see some pics of your setup if you have time.

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Old 30-03-2007, 09:39   #8
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Mark,

I think I see what you've described, but would love to see a picture. Very ingenious arrangement.
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Old 30-03-2007, 10:17   #9
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To put a finer point on the shackle description, I suppose you could use a heavy duty SS ring instead.

I'm going to try your suggestion next time I'm out.

Steve B.
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Old 30-03-2007, 10:43   #10
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On my bridle, I've seized in an eye. When I want to rig the bridle I put a bight of the anchor line thru the eye and around the seized loop thru the eye again (a full turn not just stuck thru the seized loop) and stick a wooden toggle thru the bight of the anchor line so that it pulls tight against the seized eye. I've also cut grooves into the toggle at right angles to inhibit accidentally having the toggle slip out when there is little or no load. My bridle is a little big. I think I was given 1" dia line instead of 7/8" that I requested but it's going to have a good margin for chafe. My anchor line is 5/8" Yale Brait. I have a light line spliced onto the toggle should I inadvertantly lose it. I also secure the anchor line to a cleat on board so that worst case, I just don't have a bridle if things come apart. So far, after probably 60-80 nights at anchor with bridle, I've never had that happen.
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:24   #11
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I didn't always use a bridle but ended up running one ama over the chain. Meant some fiberglass work when I hauled (minor damage). Now I ALWAYS use a bridle. The bridle will keep the chain away from the hulls besides preventing the boat sailing around on anchor.
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Old 01-04-2007, 14:33   #12
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OK, here's a picture of what I tried to describe. Pretend the anchor is attached to the side of the rode going to the right and the boat is to the left. The hook is connected to both legs of the bridle.

Mark
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:01   #13
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Thanks fro the pic. I'm going to give it a try. BTW, How do you like your tramp? what is the name of your netting? I'm replacing mine in a year or so.

Thanks!
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:51   #14
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Looks like a Sunrise tramp to me.

Bryan
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:58   #15
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The tramp is functional and very comfortable. It is made by Multihullnets.com (Sunrise). I must point out that it is not the strongest material and is only recommended for smaller nets. My nets are well below the maximum size listed and are split by a solid beam, so it works well for me and is the net Manta uses. They make a similar one that is stronger and a bit more open, with only a slightly larger hole size.

There has been a recent thread on nets and one of the contributers is very knowledgable and used to make/sell them. It is worth your time to look this up before you replace yours. The thread discusses all of the tradeoffs on strength, openess, comfort, etc.

For offshore work, the net should ideally be very open. However, I have sailed on several boats with open nets similar to that on those small storage hammocks (but much stronger material) and found that I hate them. They are extremely uncomfortable and can rip your toes right off. The other extreme is a more fabric-like net which has high comfort, but would be dangerous offshore due to its inability to shed water.

Mark
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