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Old 12-12-2015, 13:02   #1
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Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

Hi
My 1995 Edelcat has a poptop on the central pod. It looks like the original owner never replaced the shock absorber on it. I noticed after searching for a long time, what such device should look like on a sistership.
Does anybody here has advice on how to measure one, should I try an automobile rear hatch model?
Here is the picture of the sister ship, I was not able to find out the new owner, or the old one

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2015, 13:15   #2
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

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Old 12-12-2015, 13:30   #3
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

The key is not only length, but the power rating. The auto or general use ones are fine, they will corrode some eventually, but at the price of SS ones probably the best way to go.
Measure collapsed and full extended length. You may have to estimate the weight of the top.... then round up and divide by the number of struts.
Cant remember where I got my last ones, but probably Ebay or Graingers.
Common at $15-$30 a pair with lifetime warranty.
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Old 12-12-2015, 13:40   #4
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

Installing Gas-Strut Hatch Supports | Boating Magazine.

Taylormade and others make the supports. Regular ones are about $30 and SS are about $90. Hardware is another $10.

Sometimes the boat manufacturer sells a replacement kit so that you don't have to do all the math.
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Old 13-12-2015, 03:27   #5
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

Stainless gas struts are fairly cheap in uk and I suspect in US. If you have a working one use a spring balance or hand held luggage scales to measure the force needed to start compressing it. Then measure closed and open length and end fittings. The spec may be engraved on the old one.
If you have not got a working one, either measure the force required to hold the top open using luggage scales etc and then use fairly simple mechanics to calc strut force required, and then add a bit more to positively hold it open. Or, you can buy gas struts which you can adjust their load capacity downwards once fitted.
Used them on my FP Maldives which had a pop top and intend using them on the FP Athena fridge lid and engine /bunk boards to service the engines without dismantling the stern berths.
Last time I looked they were about 30 a pop so should be $30US.
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Old 13-12-2015, 16:08   #6
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy." Tom Waits.
True... but who could tell the difference?
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Old 13-12-2015, 17:19   #7
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapanui View Post
Stainless gas struts are fairly cheap in uk and I suspect in US. If you have a working one use a spring balance or hand held luggage scales to measure the force needed to start compressing it. Then measure closed and open length and end fittings. The spec may be engraved on the old one.
If you have not got a working one, either measure the force required to hold the top open using luggage scales etc and then use fairly simple mechanics to calc strut force required, and then add a bit more to positively hold it open. Or, you can buy gas struts which you can adjust their load capacity downwards once fitted.
Used them on my FP Maldives which had a pop top and intend using them on the FP Athena fridge lid and engine /bunk boards to service the engines without dismantling the stern berths.
Last time I looked they were about 30 a pop so should be $30US.

Thanks for all replies. i did not know there was a strut until I came across a picture, I will report when I get it fix. On grainer the struts are quite expensive, probably will go for a car hatch model.
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Old 14-12-2015, 05:50   #8
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Re: Shock absorber or strut for a pop top on an Edelcat33

We had a pop top at one point. I made permanent sides using teak & tinted lexan. It was much more functional for us to be able to go below & stand anytime. The top only needed to be up about 8" for that to work so I had to do away with the metal frame.
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