- Oversize drill the holes for your fasteners, perhaps a bit more than "normal".
- BOND a G10 or Aluminum
plate to the deck's undersided. Fill with epoxy & milled/chopped fibers.
- Bond the "backing" (AKA reinforcing) plate of your choice to the deck. Be it; Aluminum, G10, DIY G10, or Vacuformed wood/glass laminate.
DIY G10 is just layers of cloth (or better, knitted or stitched axials) & epoxy, which you make on your work bench with a cheap
vacuum system. Followed by a post cure if you like.
It doesn't necessarily have the full properties of purchased G10, but is easier to work with with tools (it's properties depend on your skills, materials, & setup - but 60k+ psi isn't overly tough to achieve)
The neat part about it though, is, you can put wood layers into the laminate, especially on the outer skins. And due to the vacuum used in making the stuff, the wood gains an enormous amount of strength. As the vacuum will literally pull epoxy all of the way through thin layers (3-6mm+) of wood.
Which, when coupled with glass layers in the laminate, or carbon fiber if you want, then you have some gorgeous backing or deck plates, which are also Seriously strong.
Just protect them from UV, & make sure that they're well sealed.
Carbon Fiber G10 type laminates are stronger than Aluminum when done right. And definitely add cool factor points.
Also, if where you want to mount your backing plates has a funky or unique curvature. You can use mold
release, or packing tape on the area in question, prior to laying up the custom backer in situ, with a vacuum setup. And once things have cured, peel off the backer, clean up it's edges & such. As well as de-waxing it & the deck, & then bond it in place.
~ Either that, or;
-> Break out the grinder, & shape them to fit.
-> Bond them in some structurally thickened epoxy. Say, with milled, or chopped fibers.
PS: If you want to mount hardware so that no nuts protrude into the headliner
, you can either;
- Get an over-thick piece of G10 for the backer, & machine recesses into it for nuts & washers, in addition to tapping the G10.
- Get an over-thick piece of G10, & drill & tap it for about 85% of it's thickness, so that your bolts don't penetrate it, bevel/bullnose it's edges, & then paint to match your headliner
- Drill & tap the full thickness of the G10, & after installing the deck hardware, put a thin wooden trim piece on top of it, as well as a bull nosed trim ring around it's edges.
Hope that's not a case of TMI. Just trying to help out the newbies ;-)
Use caution on epoxy back fill pours of any size, if they're deep (1cm or more) so that things don't go exothermic on you.