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Old 14-01-2009, 23:51   #31
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My bet is you engine is not getting hot enough....even increasing the rpm may not help....What happens if you put a load on the engine while on the dock or hook...I think that has been suggested by someone else.
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Old 15-01-2009, 04:58   #32
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Tonick,

I don't want my comments to mislead any one.
My 2002 was the model with the engine heat exchanger (so-called "fresh water cooled". The fresh water system was piped to the water heater.
If air in the system is your problem, you CAN get the air out. All it requires is some way to vent it at the highest point. I used a gate valve.
IMHO increasing RPM, without increasing the load on the engine, is not going to produce higher engine temperature. That's why thermostats are there, to keep engine temps steady!!
defjef has asked the crucial question--what are you temperature readings at idle, and when motoring?
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Old 15-01-2009, 06:10   #33
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why are we at three pages? I answered the question on page 1.

a diesel at idle will only make 300*ish exhaust gas temperature. Under load the EGT can go to 1200*ish
if you raise the RPM of the engine with no load the temp can go down due to increased air flow through the engine. Secondary to this the temp will go down due to increased cooling water flow through the engine. Because the raw water pump is directly related to crankshaft speed.

Put the engine under load by engaging reverse gear and pulling on the anchor. This will cause the engine to warm faster.
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Old 16-01-2009, 10:14   #34
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I like the hot water on demand idea for use when you do not have to use the engine. I really hate to run an engine just for hot water. Engines need to get up to a good operating temperature for some time to evaporate the moisture that accumulates in them when cold. If you can't get it up to temp just trying to heat water, you will shorten the life of your engine. I guess you could always have someone run it around in circles while you take a shower. Then there is the cost of the fuel you will burn.
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Old 16-01-2009, 10:22   #35
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Tonick
I still dont see where you have answered this question, What is your engines temperature when at Idle?
James S

That's another problem I have been having. I can't tell you what the engine tempature is since the old heat gage and sender would not register temp level. The new gage and new sender, purchased from Mastry Yanmar, also do not indicate temp level. What to do? What to do? said the White Rabbit.

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Old 16-01-2009, 20:27   #36
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If you can not tell what temperature your engine is maybe you have the wrong thermostat or it is not working. It would not hurt to research the correct thermostat for your engine and replace the one that is in their now with the proper one that you know is working. Also check you temp gauge for operation. All you need to know is that it either goes full scale when a lead is open or when 12 volts is applied. Make sure you find out which one before applying 12 volts directly to the gauge. If you disconnect one lead on the guage and it goes full scale at least you know it works. If you still do not get any temp reading, it just might be that your engine isn't getting hot enough to open the thermostat and allow water flow. I don't remember if you said what temperature the thermostat was but it should be around 160. Make sure you have the correct one for your engine. There are many different values. This isn't rocket science. Take a deep breath and explain it to someone else while you are trying to figure it out. I find that at times when I do this the answer jumps up and hits me between the eyes. I might feel real dumb for awhile, but the problem gets fixed! Keep us posted on what you finally find.
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Old 16-01-2009, 21:19   #37
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Is it enough load on the engine to run it in neutral with a fridge compressor and some hefty alternators? Or is this still considered a low amount of load on the engine.
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Old 17-01-2009, 00:20   #38
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I think some high output alts can take around 8hp.
Some compressors I've seen specs on are around 4hp.
I guess it depends on the size of your engine, if this is much load.
These numbers are a little sloppy.

Marty1929
I'm with Hal on this....I'd be looking at what your thermostat is rated at....You definitely want to be getting up to operating temp.
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Old 17-01-2009, 09:54   #39
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The Coleman is a more practical portable shower system,comes in a suitcase style unit,with easy carry handle.They work really well,I have one as a backup system.About $250.,and .50 cents worth of propane per shower,alot more sensible than putting hrs. on engine unless trying to recharge batteries.But thats what solar and wind power is for,isn't it???
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Old 29-01-2009, 16:05   #40
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Well, at least i think i´ll take de option of gas heater, just when anchoring. Thank you very much for your atentions.
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Old 29-01-2009, 18:19   #41
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Quote:
Is it enough load on the engine to run it in neutral with a fridge compressor and some hefty alternators? Or is this still considered a low amount of load on the engine.
Output is based on engine rpms. It's not like you get the same output at 800 rpm a with 2500.
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Old 29-01-2009, 18:21   #42
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The Coleman is a more practical portable shower system,comes in a suitcase style unit,with easy carry handle.They work really well,I have one as a backup system.About $250.,and .50 cents worth of propane per shower,alot more sensible than putting hrs. on engine unless trying to recharge batteries.But thats what solar and wind power is for,isn't it???
WWW.ZODI.COM


The zodi shower I linked to above comes in a nylon bag; The whole thing is only a 12" cube sans propane botte. You can get one at Wal-Mart for under $100.00. Mine is 2 years old, lives on the boat and is still going strong!
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