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Old 23-06-2014, 08:23   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: London UK
Boat: Hanse 400
Posts: 5
Question Hanse 400 windlass problems

We have a Hanse 400 (2009) with a lewmar windlass. We successfully dropped and raised the anchor this weekend, after that nothing works. Having used the multi meter to test the power to the windlass, the high ampage cable to the windlas is live, however there is no power to the low ampage cable through the windlass switch on the control panel console. I am assuming the low ampage switch controls a high ampage relay to the windlass? The problem I have is that the owner's manual only has basic wiring diagrams at best, and the cabling from the control console is inside sheathed looms which is difficult to trace. Has anyone suffered a similar problem on a Hanse windlass? Is there an easy fix (fuse, trip switch etc) or do i call the electrician?

Thanks
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Old 23-06-2014, 10:44   #2
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Re: Hanse 400 windlass problems

I don't know about Hanse but in general the system has either a fuse or more likely a breaker for both the high amperage and low amperage sides of the system.
The low amperage side for the solenoid switch/foot switch side and a high amperage breaker for the main feed to the windlass motor. That's on most boats.
Does your windlass take the main feed from the main battery bank or does it have it's own dedicated battery forward in the hull?
Is the power for the low amperage relay come off your main panel?

My current system has the main power to the windlass coming from a breaker mounted in proximity of the main house batteries(golf cart sized monsters), with a live feed from there to a foot switch mounted through the deck. The solenoid actually completes the grounding portion of the circuit back near the batteries. This system was installed by a dealer prior to my ownership of the boat.
The feed for the low amperage was taken in the same area and had a fuse locally for it. When you hit the switch on the main panel all you are really doing is completing the circuit, the foot switch is making the final contact.


Does your on deck switch just have a low amperage wire to activate a solenoid for the high amperage side or does it conduct the high amperage connection to the motor? Two direction motor or one direction motor with a release clutch?

There are a few different ways to wire these, it all depends on who installed it. I don't know about Hanse but many overseas builders send the boat over without some of these systems and then have them installed by the agent or their contractors here. Factory installed or stateside installed? If factory you should be able to contact them for more info, if not, good luck in finding out who installed it and how it's wired. You'll just basically have to track it down with your meter and a good flashlight.

Hope you get a response from another owner with a similar system, if not, put a little more detailed description of the system you have on here, more info always helps.
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Old 23-06-2014, 10:48   #3
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Boat: Hanse 400
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Re: Hanse 400 windlass problems

Thanks for that, i need to do a little more digging around in the forepeak. I beleive i have separate batteries and contactors up in the bow so when i get a little more into the detail i'll come back.
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Old 23-06-2014, 10:53   #4
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Re: Hanse 400 windlass problems

Last time mine had an issue I found that the fuse on the low amperage side of the solenoid switch had failed, it was buried in a bundle of wires near the battery bank near the main breaker. I then found that the fuse failed due to the failure of the solenoid switch. It took about 2 hours of tracing down through the whole system with a meter and a flashlight, of course now I know my windlass system inside out......
I drew up a schematic for it, I usually do that every time I have to debug another system on this boat. Any used boat has had "modifications" to it and added systems put in after the original purchase, usually with little or no documentation and never with any schematics. It's a good idea to draw up a schematic for any system like this you have to debug because you know you'll be doing it again someday. I make up a binder with the wiring schematics as I go along so I don't have to figure the same thing out twice.
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