Drying out on a grid platform

[alaskaflyfish]

I would like to change my propeller. I could pay to have a haul-out $600 or dry out for free on the grid and seawall. Haul outs are tide related and very busy. Next available tide day is Aug24th. They don't like pleasure boaters from what I gather. The problem is the grid beams are 8 feet apart and my keel is only 7 feet long at most (Albin Vega). That means I could only rest on one beam at my boats center of balance. The beams are about the size of a rail road tie. Would a single beam under the keel cause any damage to the keel? Has anyone experienced this set up as being too tipsy fore and aft? Any tips and advice would be helpful. I have scuba gear and could do this in the water at my slip, but it is the least favorable option since it is a new installation of a Martec fold-able propeller. Some assembly required of small parts in very cold water. Attached is the Vega specs. Thanks....

VEGA 27 (ALBIN) sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

[Jim Cate]

Could you set an additional block in an appropriate position before hand, and thus spread the load out a bit?

No advice about the Vega keel strength since I have no knowledge of its structure, but my GUESS is that it would be ok on one block.

Jim

[alaskaflyfish]

I asked the Harbor Master secretary if I could modify the grid by adding planks, I haven't heard back. The beams are 2 feet above ground level so stuffing something in between the keel and ground would be a little tricky. I have the grid reserved for this coming Saturday. The bottom of the keel is supposed to be 1/2 thick. Still, thats a lot of pressure on a small area. Here is a link with a picture.

https://www.cityofhomer-ak.gov/port/...info-agreement

[Jim Cate]

wow! Two feet high... I've never seen such a grid. The ones with which I am familiar were in NZ,and typically were like 8x8 timbers, partially sunken into the bottom. I can see that additional blocking would be awkward.

So, how wide are those beams? We've often used blocking on a slipway car that was on the order of 6 inches wide, but then our keel is a steel shell with a flat bottom.

Jim

[Snowpetrel]

I'd be straping a heavy plank of wood or something under the keel to protect it. Pretty hard to guess at the exact COG, so you will need to add lines fore and aft and then prop it up. Possibly dive on the boat once it touches down and put a jack (with packers) under the keel to help spread the load and stabilise her.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by alaskaflyfish

I would like to change my propeller. I could pay to have a haul-out $600 or dry out for free on the grid and seawall. Haul outs are tide related and very busy. Next available tide day is Aug24th. They don't like pleasure boaters from what I gather. The problem is the grid beams are 8 feet apart and my keel is only 7 feet long at most (Albin Vega). That means I could only rest on one beam at my boats center of balance. The beams are about the size of a rail road tie. Would a single beam under the keel cause any damage to the keel? Has anyone experienced this set up as being too tipsy fore and aft? Any tips and advice would be helpful. I have scuba gear and could do this in the water at my slip, but it is the least favorable option since it is a new installation of a Martec fold-able propeller. Some assembly required of small parts in very cold water. Attached is the Vega specs. Thanks....

VEGA 27 (ALBIN) sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

just anchor fore and aft to put her stern to sea and bow to the beach secure everything for sailing hard and let her go dry she will only heel over approximately 30% ( do this on a sandy beach) she will float right off on the next tide . I do it all the time to clean the hull. On my islander . 8 ft beam and 3.75 ft draft. Near identical measurements. Its simple geometry and the boat will be well supported at all times.

[2big2small]

Originally Posted by newhaul

just anchor fore and aft to put her stern to sea and bow to the beach secure everything for sailing hard and let her go dry she will only heel over approximately 30% ( do this on a sandy beach) she will float right off on the next tide . I do it all the time to clean the hull. On my islander . 8 ft beam and 3.75 ft draft. Near identical measurements. Its simple geometry and the boat will be well supported at all times.

That, if you can find a sandy beach. If the slope is steep you need to orient the boat differently and make sure she’ll go down with the keel towards sea and the cabin towards land. It has to be a a well sheltered beach. Waves could make your hull scrape.

Otherwise sail to another grid that will work. It’s a boat after all, you’re not restricted to one place. My 2c.

Or any wall with a hard, even bottom. I once did that in Brazil and we were back on our merry way after one tidal cycle.

[Snowpetrel]

If its an old wooden grid it shouldn't hurt the grp. I've had a 14 ton fibreglass boat rock forward on a single slipway beam with no damage to the Grp keel. Sharp steel beams would be a different story.

The very sheltered beach option may be good. Chuck a bunch of tires under the bilge. Make sure she leans upslope not downslope..

[OldManMirage]

If you're just changing the propeller I would think you could do it without a haulout. A diver should be able to handle it. Anyone with a scuba tank really. Have you looked into that possibility ?

[Dove1955]

Check out some cruisers on youtube, Tulas Endless Summer, they just did two in-water prop changes with some good advice. Good Luck !

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

wow! Two feet high... I've never seen such a grid. The ones with which I am familiar were in NZ,and typically were like 8x8 timbers, partially sunken into the bottom. I can see that additional blocking would be awkward.

So, how wide are those beams? We've often used blocking on a slipway car that was on the order of 6 inches wide, but then our keel is a steel shell with a flat bottom.

Jim

Grids in the Fundy area are also raised off the beach. The benefit is that you have more headroom to work,especially on a wooden boat. Lying on your back on a cold beach is no fun. Len

[deblen]

Originally Posted by alaskaflyfish

I asked the Harbor Master secretary if I could modify the grid by adding planks, I haven't heard back. The beams are 2 feet above ground level so stuffing something in between the keel and ground would be a little tricky. I have the grid reserved for this coming Saturday. The bottom of the keel is supposed to be 1/2 thick. Still, thats a lot of pressure on a small area. Here is a link with a picture.

https://www.cityofhomer-ak.gov/port/...info-agreement

Build your own "keel trough".
Two 2x10x12' planks laminated(nailed) together to give 3" thickness. Add a 2x6x nailed to each side to form a trough that fits over the keel length ways.
Four ropes (two from each end) that go to your port & stbd bow & stern cleats.
Keelhaul the trough on over the keel & tie it per above.
Motor over the crib,stop where one of the crib beams are close to center of balance.
When you dry,the trough will span up to 3 crib beams.
Save the trough for future use-no more expensive haulouts.


I will att. a pic of a local boat lying on a wooden beach crib commonly used in the Fundy area for drying on a beach. You can keelhaul this portable crib to the desired point along the hull & then pull it under the hull into position for drying. / Len