Dockhand plugged my 30A 120 into 30A 250

[rgleason]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

See post 80

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2694358

[hellosailor]

Does electrolysis require the presence of an electrolyte?
As opposed to galvanic reactions being from direct contact, no electrolyte required?
Is that perhaps the crux of the matter?

Most of the general audience of "cruisers" are not educated technicians, so some misuse of American English, Canadian English, British English, Standard English, Australian English, Kiwi English, and even Pidgin English, might be anticipated in this forum. (Did I miss anyone there? Should I count Chinglish, since it is used in so many manuals in these markets?)

One might ask (painfully going back to the topic) if it wouldn't be totally paranoid to get an outlet tester, a decent outlet tester not the $5 kind, and wire it up to the same type of plug as one's shore power cord, so that one could actually TEST a shore power pillar before plugging one's power cord into it.

Shore power is just peachy keen at the megayacht places, sure, but there are a lot of older (OLDER) low budget marinas where there are still shop lights hanging on poles and the wiring was done by Forest Gump's cousin-in-law. Reversed pairs, open grounds, odd voltages, all to be expected.

Heck, I've seen "ground" off by 15 volts from the neutral in NYC buildings, and Con Ed could only say "Yeah, we keep warning the owner it is in the premises wiring and they've got a situation on their hands."

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

One might ask (painfully going back to the topic) if it wouldn't be totally paranoid to get an outlet tester, a decent outlet tester not the $5 kind, and wire it up to the same type of plug as one's shore power cord, so that one could actually TEST a shore power pillar before plugging one's power cord into it.

Easy to do. If you have a 30 amp boat all you need is a Marinco 30 to 15 adaptor (S30-15) and a outlet tester from Home Depot. The Marinco is about $40 and the outlet tester is about $15 or less. If you get the deluxe tester you can even check the GFCI on the dock if one is installed.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by rgleason

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2694358

Not sure what you mean by that. Post 80 describes and links to a Victron isolation transformer that will change 120 to 240 and vice versa.

[rgleason]

Your, post was helpful. I am working on more details/alternatives involving using the charger's global source, and will hopefully have something more in a couple of days that you can crit.

[rgleason]

Rick,
Thank you for the question. I have answered you questions in red below and in the body of your email to maintain continuity of the conversation. Take a look and please ask any questions you may have. Best Regards, Kevin Patterson

Kevin is this right?

EU Shore Power Connector 16a 230v---> BS 3091 C-Series ELCI Double Pole 230vac 16a ---> Sterling Pro Ultra 40 amp (global ac power sources) ---> Ship 12vdc power
Yes, looks correct.

US Shore Power Connector 30a 120v ---> BS 3116 ELCI GFCI Panel+3 CB 120vac 30a ---> Sterling UltraPro Charger 40 amp (global ac power sources)-->Ship 12vdc power
Yes, looks correct.

Is the BS 3091 ELCI 230v just 50 hertz or is it 50hz/60hz?
Carling Technologies has it listed at 230 Hz.

What is the simplest way to change the Charger over to the EU?
With an ELCI? Two ELCI’s with a selector switch.

.
EU Shore Power Connector 16a 230v--->
BS 3091 C-Series ELCI Double Pole 230vac 16a --->
- Two way selector switch, set on EU shore power
Sterling Pro Ultra 40 amp (global ac power sources) --->
Ship 12vdc power

US Shore Power Connector 30a 120v --->
BS 3116 ELCI GFCI Panel+3 CB 120vac 30a --->
- Two way selector switch set on US shore power
Sterling UltraPro Charger 40 amp (global ac power sources)-->
Ship 12vdc power

Also the EU shore power cable could use the US shore power cable, with a short US to EU adapter cable just before the dock connection.

The EU ELCI would not have any connections to Refridge or Receptacles and the US ELCI would have these connections. Both would be connected to the Charger through the Selector Switch.

I do not understand Kevin's response about the ELCI 16a 230V and do not know if 230hz will cover 50hz.


So it looks like it would cost another ELCI, a selector switch and making up a short adapter cable for the shore power connection.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

anyone who believes it is semantics clearly has no training or education in the matter.

I might have to cede. It is the same damn thing, except one is meant to corrode and the other to generate electricity. It appears the difference is the dissimilar metals are in contact in one and not the other.
However electrolysis is a widely used term something like a trademark. Do Xerox or copy something?

[hellosailor]

mitiempo-
I'm not sure about HD as a source. IIRC the video I saw showed how a $5 outlet tester (the kind with 3 LEDs in a yellow plastic "plug") could be very wrong about an outlet, while a $30 Sperry (?) showed the real problem. Except, the $30 model has since been replaced by a $15 newer model, presumably doing the same job.
Somewhere I've got a reference to it, but that's way down the ToDo list.

Someone at Consolidated Edison actually said to me once "Do your light bulbs work? Because that's all we're supposed to do, the rest is not our problem."

Well, credit for being honest, even if it isn't quite what we expect these days.(G)

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

mitiempo-
I'm not sure about HD as a source. IIRC the video I saw showed how a $5 outlet tester (the kind with 3 LEDs in a yellow plastic "plug") could be very wrong about an outlet, while a $30 Sperry (?) showed the real problem. Except, the $30 model has since been replaced by a $15 newer model, presumably doing the same job.
Somewhere I've got a reference to it, but that's way down the ToDo list.

Someone at Consolidated Edison actually said to me once "Do your light bulbs work? Because that's all we're supposed to do, the rest is not our problem."

Well, credit for being honest, even if it isn't quite what we expect these days.(G)

I used HD as an example. Not sure where I bought mine a few years ago, but it has been totally reliable. It has the extra button to test a GFCI and that also works as advertised.