Connecting REALLY TINY wires (around #26)

[delmarrey]

USCG and ABYC always discourages against soldering due the hard spot next to the solder and the corrosive flux used with solder.

As above I use the uninsulated #22 crimp terminals and strip twice the length and double up the wire. Then use the smallest heat shrink that fits to seal them from each other.

If you want a water tight system one can coat the terminal with Liquid Electrical Tape before slipping over the heat shrink. Then give it several minutes to cure a bit before heating the shrink wrap.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

USCG and ABYC always discourages against soldering due the hard spot next to the solder and the corrosive flux used with solder.

As above I use the uninsulated #22 crimp terminals and strip twice the length and double up the wire. Then use the smallest heat shrink that fits to seal them from each other. .....

I know this the perceived wisdom but really this is not an issue with such small signal wires; even the heat shrink is strong enough to support such small wires and the small amount of solder required (and with normal cleaning after soldering) removes the risk of corrosive flux.

I would be more worried by the size and weight of largish (# 22) crimp terminal then by any potential soldering issues.

YMMV

[delmarrey]

Everyone has the right to choose what even method they like, whether right or wrong. I'm just offering a system that has worked well for me, and which I will continue until the suppliers come up with a water tight crimp-on that's the right size.

I'd invent one myself but I'm retired now and could give a rats ass. I'll leave it up to the next entrepreneur.

[Rusty123]

There was a good discussion on Panbo a couple months ago about using scotch locks on this sort of thing. There are pros and cons, but next time I'm faced with this challenge, that's probably what I'll use.

[delmarrey]

Although the Scotchloks are kinda nifty and can be sealed (gel) they still put a large bulge in the middle of a straight run.

The 3M U1R would be my choice (rated to #24) but it's just another tool to buy for crimping. And minimum order is 2500 pieces.

[CarinaPDX]

Flux? NEVER use flux on electrical connections because it is corrosive. Solder sold for electrical work has rosin core (or nothing at all); rosin is NOT corrosive. So not soldering because of flux is a bit irrelevant. Just use the right stuff.

Personally I would solder the two wires together (with rosin-core solder) and paint (or dip) with liquid vinyl. Don't use a 235W Weller soldering gun (or an old-fashioned soldering iron); try a 25W-35W soldering pencil. Putting heat-shrink over the liquid vinyl is overkill for this size wire, but if belt and braces is your style then go for it.

Work hardening of the copper at the edge of the solder joint is only a problem with vibration, so secure the joint so it doesn't move. The liquid vinyl or heat shrink should do that. Or fasten it down. Easy.

Greg

[dohenyboy]

I go with stripping the wire twice as long and then doubling them up, and using the red butt connectors.
Its easy to do. You will be using all marine-approved parts. You don't have to buy anything new to do it. If you are offshore and need to change something, you will have the parts to do it. And anyone else that comes long will not scratch their head figuring out what you have done.