Battery Type settings for Sterling and Morningstar

[Bob666]

Hi!

Changed from GEL to AGM batteries. Trojan 24-AGM:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/dat...ata_Sheets.pdf

I have to change the setting for Battery Type on two devices:

1. Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger 80 A:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/06...B12130.pdf?477
Specifically:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XR...NX5vL-Oohkhwlx

2. Morningstar Tristar MPPT regulator TS-MPPT-30:
https://2n1s7w3qw84d2ysnx3ia2bct-wpe...ors-Manual.pdf
Specifically:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OM...vMiWMNT65QKVW7

For (1), I have changed to setting 5 = “Euro AGM”. Perhaps to high voltage?

For (2), I have changed to setting 4 = “AGM/Flooded” and I set it to never automatically equalise as switch 7 is Off.

I could not find an exact match of settings in respective manual?

Furthermore, in Trojan manual says never equalise but I read the some people do equalise their AGM batteries, e g Lifeline batteries.

Also heard that discharged AGM batteries prefer heavy bulk charge/many amps. Should I change the 50 A alternator? It has intermittent internal diode problems I think it once had 8 A going into it while at rest, which contributed to killing the old bank.

I can mount a 70 A alternator. There exists 100 A also but some people say you have to add another wheel and belt then? Only got 28 hp on a 10 ton boat (overloaded as we’re cruising) which is too little for strong tidal currents (so we plan instead).

Will I loose some hp if upgrading alternator?

[john61ct]

I've heard Trojan is discontinuing their AGM line, but maybe was just a rumor.

No user custom settings available?

If not, go higher than spec only if you have a hard time getting to 100% Full as per endAmps.

If you need to go lower, then pay extra attention to getting to 100% Full as per endAmps at least a few times per week.

Or best is upgrading to charge sources that allow for user custom settings, so you are free to choose any chemistry in future.

Never equalize - as in extra-high voltages - any AGM but Lifeline. Trojan may have a similar maintenance protocol called "reconditioning" or something.

Always do such routines manually only, even with FLA.

If you go to a HO alt you can rig a field current kill switch at the helm to give you back propulsion HP when needed.

Check your endAmps getting Full with an ammeter before you spend all that money, even then may not be worth it.

Is that where you get most of your energy input?

[Bob666]

Originally Posted by john61ct

I've heard Trojan is discontinuing their AGM line, but maybe was just a rumor.

No user custom settings available?

If not, go higher than spec only if you have a hard time getting to 100% Full as per endAmps.

If you need to go lower, then pay extra attention to getting to 100% Full as per endAmps at least a few times per week.

Or best is upgrading to charge sources that allow for user custom settings, so you are free to choose any chemistry in future.

Never equalize - as in extra-high voltages - any AGM but Lifeline. Trojan may have a similar maintenance protocol called "reconditioning" or something.

Always do such routines manually only, even with FLA.

If you go to a HO alt you can rig a field current kill switch at the helm to give you back propulsion HP when needed.

Check your endAmps getting Full with an ammeter before you spend all that money, even then may not be worth it.

Is that where you get most of your energy input?

Most is from the 310 W solar panel. But most amps at a given point in time from generator I think.

[john61ct]

So see how you go first without changing the alt setup.

[Bleemus]

Personally I would set the Sterling to whatever setting that did not exceed battery manufacturer recommendations to get you close to 100% avoiding damaging the batteries. Then fine tune the Morningstar, if possible, to get you to full via solar.