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Haforn · 19-08-2004, 14:25

Has any one experience of a make of anchor solenoid which may last without coroding. Our Vitus lasted 10 months even though its positioned inside the boat before the contacts gave out. If not is there a way of keeping the damp out. Our do we just pull away and forget the hasel and expense??

**Alan Wheeler** · 19-08-2004, 14:40

I would suspect that it isn't corrosion. Probably just the contacts wearing out due to arcing. Are you sure you have a unit big enough. Rmember that when starting an engine, the duration of closure is short. Plus the engine starter may not be under as much load. An anchor winch is under load for a higher duration. Plus the soloniod is well sealed. You would see significant corrosion on terminals and casign before contacts. However, for future replacment, make sure you use a solonoid over spect it current capacity and then place it or them if dual direction, into a water proof plastic electrical box and seal up the cable entry/exit.

delmarrey · 19-08-2004, 19:22

Have you tried 2 automotive starter solenoids. One for up and the other for down. They are use on manlift hydraulics a lot of the time and seem to last, as well as being water tight. They are probabley less expensive too!................_/)

**Alan Wheeler** · 20-08-2004, 01:14

Forgive my poor Grammer and spelling above. I really must proof read be fore I hit the send key.

**GordMay** · 20-08-2004, 03:42

I really like the Blue Sea solenoids, tho' they are expensive.

Engine Starting Solenoid - Blue Sea #9012 (require 1 each for ’up’ & ‘down’)
60VDC, 250 Amperes DC Continuous (2000 A Make & Break)
http://resources.myeporia.com/company_57/8703.pdf

I don't like the more common Cole Hersey solenoids nearly as much, tho' they are inexpensive.
Windlass Solenoid - Cole Hersey #24143 (1 only required for up & dn)
12V 200 A Cont. (750 A Make & Break ?)

Lewmar, Maxwell and others makeUp-Down Control Assemblies that are generally overpriced.

Gord

Greg B · 20-08-2004, 06:31

Another culprit can be low or insufficient voltage. That will really shorten the life of a solenoid. Is the wiring sized correctly for its length?

**GordMay** · 21-08-2004, 01:26

Greg B is absolutely correct in wondering about wire size.
What is the total length of cable from battery to windlass (Pos. + Neg.)?
What is the full load current of the windlass motor (or watts)?
What is the cable size?
Gord

Haforn · 21-08-2004, 02:03

Well that's given me somethings to go on. The cable used is battery sized and is only on a 8m run so should be ok.
Will check out the other alternatives and let you know.

Talbot · 21-08-2004, 02:47

Quote:

Haforn once whispered in the wind:
. The cable used is battery sized and is only on a 8m run so should be ok.

8m is a long way with the current that is being drawn for this. I suspect that you may have too small a cable (battery cable comes in a lot of different sizes) There are a lot of arguments about having a battery up forward, or running the cables to the bank aft. Personally I reckon its easier to run a smaller cable to forward (capable of handling the load, but with an acceptable voltage loss, and to have the main battery for the device within abt 2m of it, even then I would be using large battery cable. When you are talking at least 1000w, that is a lot of current, next time hold the cable during use and see if it is getting hot!

**GordMay** · 21-08-2004, 04:48

80 Amps (about 1000 watts) at 16 m or 52 Feet (total Pos. + Neg.) cable would require a minimum wire size of 2/0 AWG (<200 mm sq.) Copper conductor, which will measure about 15.75 mm or 5/8" in diameter (just the copper conductor, not including the insulation). Add the insulation, and you’re looking at about 25 mm or 1" overall diameter.

**Alan Wheeler** · 21-08-2004, 15:03

And although Talbot is quite right, I would just like to add that over a length of 8M, you probably won't feel any heat. The heat is disapated along its entire length.
Haforn, you also have to remember that 8M ends up becoming 16M with the Neg cable added to the length. GordMay picked that up. Top marks GordMay.
What happens Haforn is that the resistance of the cable has an effect on the voltage seen at the winch motor, due to it's load. As the load increases, the voltage drops and the result is the power is disapated as heat along the length of the cable. To explain that really easy, lets say the 1000W motor has a resistance under load 1 ohm. (not doing this to be exact) Now lets say that the cable has a resistance of 1 ohm. 500W is now disapated along the length of the cable as heat. The other 500W makes it to the motor. On initial start up, the current being pulled by the winch to get moving, could be three times that figure.
Now, when the solenoid contact is released, the load suddenly starts to reduce, but along with the reduction, the voltage increases. As a result, the arc across the terminals of the contact, follow the contact as it opens. The voltage rises as the contact becomes further apart, so the arc remains for a lot longer than it would if little drop was incurred and it acts like a DC arc welder, eating away at the contact surface.
Hope that helps and was easy to understand.

delmarrey · 21-08-2004, 16:11

That's not a bad idea. The cables you have to run only need to carry the charging current, if it's isolated.

I'm about to install a windlass on my vessel and was dreading the pull of a length of heavy cables 10 Meters forward.

Plus and extra battery will probably be needed adding a power guzzler like a windlass. The booklet recommends #2 copper for my unit for the 30+ feet.

Talbot · 22-08-2004, 14:04

If you want to install a battery up forward and use it for your thruster and windlass, there is quite a good explanation, and discussion HERE .

There is another alternative, which would only require quite light cabling run from your main battery by use of the OSCAR . certainly a way to reduce the weight of those big heavy power leads.