5-pin Push Switch with 2 LEDs: Which Wires Match the Functions?

[Paul Wu]

I have a 5-pin push switch with 2 LEDs. I plan to use the switch to control the monitor for a rear view camera.

The switch did not come with a wiring diagram and the vendor has not responded to my request for a diagram.

The switch has four wires in a connector which plugs into the switch.

The wires are green (1), red (2) adjacent to the green, open spot (3), red (4), black (5) adjacent to the red (4).

I is my understanding that:

One wire provides 12-volt power to the switch and to an upper LED which lights when the switch is closed.

A second wire provides power to the monitor when the switch is closed.

A third wire provides power to a lower LED which lights the switch label.

A fourth wire is a common ground for the two LEDs.

I do not know which wire matches which function.


I have no electronics training and very little knowledge of electronics.

I do not want to try wiring combinations because I do not want to risk damaging an LED by applying voltage to the wrong side of an LED.

I determined that the green wire and the red (2) wire are part of the switch circuit, they show continuity when the switch is engaged.

If I apply power to the switch circuit and connect either red (4) or black to ground do I risk damaging an LED?

Does anyone know which wires match the functions?

[coopec43]

Paul

Does your switch look like any of these?

https://www.google.com/search?q=5-pi...w=1088&bih=609

If you can spot your switch click on it and then click "Visit"and that may give you a wiring diagram.


Clive

[Wotname]

Welcome aboard Paul Wu! Good to see an electrical question as a first post .

A bit more information would guide us to give a better answer like a photo or part number of the switch but in the absence of that, let me add to what coopec43 has suggested.

You estimation of the wiring arrangement sounds OK.

Pin 2 (red) is the power (12VDC +ve) that is switched to pin 1 (green) to operate the monitor.

Pin 5 (black) is ground (12VDC -ve) to light the LEDS (both of them)

Pin 4 (red) is power to light the lower LED (switch label). This is usually 12VDC +ve but could be a variable +ve supply from a dimmer if the back light needs timing at night. It could require a 5V dimmer supply (+ve) depending on application but without more information, one can't be sure.

So I suggest 12VDC +ve to pin 2. Pin 1 to the monitor. Ground (-ve) to pin 5 and 12VDC +ve from the lighting source to pin 4. If there is no instrument lighting source, just connect pin 2 and pin 4 together to get the switch label light on.

All care but no responsibility .

[Paul Wu]

coopec43 and Wotname Thanks for the guidance.

I checked many sites, but could not find a wiring diagram. Attached are images of a switch and wires similar to mine. Here are possible model numbers from the package: 210608 BXAV-AA-AV P10441 00005

[Kelkara]

Test it with a 3V battery ... you won't damage the LED with 3V (even if there is no resistor it will be ok glowing brightly for a short duration), although they may not be very bright if they have resistors built in for 12V (1.5V might even work). A multimeter set to "DC Resistance" will help you figure out which wires are for the main switch: it should switch between almost zero ohms and infinite.


good luck.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Paul Wu

coopec43 and Wotname Thanks for the guidance.

I checked many sites, but could not find a wiring diagram. Attached are images of a switch and wires similar to mine. Here are possible model numbers from the package: 210608 BXAV-AA-AV P10441 00005

Is this an aftermarket switch or is it a factory optional switch on a car / automobile. If the latter, maybe the wiring can be found on the vehicles wiring diagrams. You might also be able to determine (if a car switch), the voltage require to light the switch label (bottom LED) - it would usually be connected to the other instrument lamps via the vehicle's dimmer.

If an aftermarket switch, was it intended for a particular vehicle or just a generic switch. If generic (especially), then I think you would be safe with using 12 volts for the bottom LED.

[coopec43]

Paul


It looks like a switch for a Toyota


COMPATIBLE VEHICLES:

# Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007-2015
# Toyota Fortuner 2005-2014
# Toyota Hilux 2005-2014
# Toyota Tacoma 2005-2011
# Toyota Tacoma 2012-2015 (Left Side ONLY)
# Toyota Highlander 2001-2007
# Toyota 2005-2007 (Center Console if equipped)
# Toyota 4Runner 2003-2009
# Toyota Prado 120 Series 2003-2009
# Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series 1998-2007
# Toyota Land Cruiser 75, 76, 78 & 79 series

https://www.dhgate.com/store/product...392971604.html

You shouldn't have any trouble finding the wiring diagram for that online. Maybe something here?

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=t...osOzdDfaIgdEM:


https://www.google.com.au/search?ei=...30.i7bnGJxkws8


Clive

[coopec43]

Maybe?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...bar-wiring.jpg

[mlydon]

Reversing the polarity of an led wont hurt it, it just wont light up.
You can take advantage of this in anchor/tri-Color lights....2 wire up the mast for 2 lights. Just wire the lights in series pos-pos or neg-neg.

connecting the two to D.C. with one polarity will light up the light that has pos coming into its pos connector, completely ignoring the ‘reversed’ light. Flip polarity at the battery, and the other comes on.

Orca green does this...
https://orcagreenmarine.com/product/...-strobe-model/

Matt

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Maybe?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...bar-wiring.jpg

I reckon you have nailed it

So the supply should go to the green wire on pin 1 with the red on pin 2 going to the monitor.
Black (pin 5) goes to ground and the instrument lighting positive going to the red on pin 4.

If the OP doesn't have a instrument lighting positive, he can connect pin 1 to pin 4.

[Paul Wu]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

Test it with a 3V battery ... you won't damage the LED with 3V

Kelkara

With your battery test, I determined that pin 5 (black) is the ground and that pin 4 (red) is power to the lower LED. I also determined that pin 1 (green) is the power to the switch. If power is connected to pin 2 (red), the upper LED stays on whenever there is power to the switch, even when the switch is not engaged.

The LEDs did not light with a 1.5V battery.

[Paul Wu]

Originally Posted by Wotname

If an aftermarket switch, was it intended for a particular vehicle or just a generic switch. If generic (especially), then I think you would be safe with using 12 volts for the bottom LED.

Wotman

This is an aftermarket switch for my 2004 Toyota Highlander. It fits many other Toyota models as noted by coopec43.

My plan is to connect the lower LED (pin 4) and the switch (pin 1) to the same 12V power source, provided that 12V will not damage the lower LED.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Paul Wu

Wotman

This is an aftermarket switch for my 2004 Toyota Highlander. It fits many other Toyota models as noted by coopec43.

My plan is to connect the lower LED (pin 4) and the switch (pin 1) to the same 12V power source, provided that 12V will not damage the lower LED.

So can we take it that your problem is solved then?


Clive

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Paul Wu

Wotman

This is an aftermarket switch for my 2004 Toyota Highlander. It fits many other Toyota models as noted by coopec43.

My plan is to connect the lower LED (pin 4) and the switch (pin 1) to the same 12V power source, provided that 12V will not damage the lower LED.

12 V is suitable for the lower LED. This is how Toyota do it as referenced in the post by coopec43 (post #8).

You are good to go

[Paul Wu]

Originally Posted by Wotname

12 V is suitable for the lower LED. This is how Toyota do it as referenced in the post by coopec43 (post #8).

You are good to go

I plan to install the switch in a few days. Thanks to all for the information and guidance.