Want To Buy: Furuno LCD 1622 Radar display

[CaptWil]

Hi
I need the above display head for my Radar dome RSB0060
Rgds
Will

[CaptWil]

Hi
Surely someone would have information on a Furuno LCD 1622 for sale?

[CaptWil]

"BUMP"

Anyone please?
Rgds
Will

[CaptWil]

Wow this item must be in hot demand, not even 1 answer
Rgds
Will

[unclemack]

Just that fewer 1622's were made than others in that series I believe, rather than being in any great demand - and that many of those few will have died by now.
If you have a faulty 1622 display what's the problem with it?
Asking because some repairs can be easier than you might think.
If you don't have one there's no need to bother reading any further

I've only repaired a few 1621, 1621 Mk.2 & 1623's and no 1622's.

My first check would be for oxidised pins & sockets in all the cable plugs & sockets. All contacts need to be bright & shiny. A small sewing needle with a snapped-off point will scrape pin sockets clean, large hypodermic needle will scrape the pins.

LCD screen failures are common, usually caused by the "zebra" elastomeric connector strips. Usually begins with blank bands across (or down?) the screen. Cleaning contacts gently with acetone on Q-tips and then increasing the clamping pressure exerted by the metal tabs has worked for me.
Replacement connectors would obviously be better but I couldn't find a supplier back then for this type. Might be available now.

CCFL tubes sometimes fail causing a dark screen - that's a simple soldering job and generic tubes are readily available. Can't remember now whether the inverter's on its own board or not.

Scanner socket connections at the display unit's PCB are worth checking - although Furuno are stronger here than some other makes.

Heavy scanner cables can exert quite some force on the case, socket, plug, cable's internal wires & connections and on the circuit board below the socket - all from just twisting the unit to change the viewing angle.

Look for cracked circuit tracks & solder lands around the socket.
Continuity check the cable's internal wires end-to-end for continuity but remember that flexing the cable can cause intermittent contact in a broken wire.

Heat damaged/lightning-blasted components on the board behind the power socket are very obvious, so is corrosion from water ingress. That's often on the PCB behind the buttons pad because water gets in around the buttons.
Easiest ever fix I can remember was a corroded-through track to the power button. Tiny holes through the board are connections from one side to the other, continuity checks help. Sometimes they look OK but are broken or corroded away inside the tiny hole.

These displays are not too hard to troubleshoot for an electronics repair technician if you can find one nearby.
GMDSS radar endorsed repairers will be harder to find though.

I'm not one and I'm also retired now, sorry
Do still have a couple of donor units for spares, many components are common to all the models.

[CaptWil]

Good morning UncleM

The info is great thanks and appreciated; I do not have a display as the boat only came with the dome
I looked at Furuno website and you can still buy the display head but USD1100 is steep for an older analogue system I think
Don't know what to do, ditch the old dome and wait for more funds towards digital color unit... installed N2K onboard but now a bit skinny on funds lol
Cheers
Will