Tobago 35: Repair Question

[mfeene01]

I have a 1994 FP Tobago-35. The sliding door between the salon & cockpit is becoming difficult to open and close. It sounds like whatever roller/slider mechanism that is on the bottom of the door is wearing out (tends to grate & sounds like bare metal on metal).

I tried to remove the door for repair by taking off the top of the frame but, after I pulled all of the screws the frame top piece would not budge (even after a couple of hammer whacks).

Does anyone know how I can get the door out to repair it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Mike F.

[Sonosailor]

My 96 Tobago has the same problem. I just cleaned the area with kerosene to get rid of the gunk, and sprayed like heck with teflon spray. It works better, but I know it isn't ideal.

[Lucky]

I have had the same problem on both my FP's and it is to say the least annoying. I have a plan to attach a teflon piece on either side of the door. These should screwed in with the door lifted slightly above the bottom rail. This should have the door sliding on the teflon stubs rather than alu to alu grinding as I guess would be what you experience.

Good luck on your endevour to solve the problem! And if you find a successful solution post it on the Forum.

Happy lead free sailin!

[Sonosailor]

I've found a source of 1/8" tape, 1" wide, but have to buy 20 feet of it for $200. I'm upset, but since I live on the boat half the year, I'll likely go for it.

[Sonosailor]

HELP! Anybody close to their Tobago? I need the width of the door frame to buy the correct width of teflon to place under the door..


I'm all set to drive up the valley on Monday to buy the teflon, but need that width. I know how annoying teflon is to shave.

[mfeene01]

Mine is 4 feet 10.5 inches, not including the inset channels on the sides.

By the way, I used some teflon tape under my door which has worked OK for about 2 yrs now. Example: Buy Slick Strips 3 4 Width 1 32 Thick at Woodcraft

Good Luck
Mike F.

[Sonosailor]

Thanks for the reply - I am after the width. I take it 3/4" will work!

[Sonosailor]

Wow, that site is amazing. I will go for the 1/8"UHMW sheets as well, and just see which works.

You just saved me $150+ and an all-day drive, if I can get these shipped to Canada!

[mfeene01]

Yes, the 3/4" worked for me.

If they won't ship to Canada, I would think that you could find the same / similar items in Canada.

Please post what you decide to do as I think mine will need to be redone soon.

[Sonosailor]

Order is made. I'll advise my success, hopefully.

[kiltym]

What we did:

There is a rubber track at the top of the door, and the bottom. The one at the bottom had ripped some, and was not working so well as it would get jammed when the door was opened fully.

Took the top border of the door frame off, and removed the door (top border is screwed in, and then a sealant. Once you get a putty knife in you can work it free). Removed the rubber track from the top part, and re-installed that on the bottom. Took the one from the bottom, and installed on the top. Cleaned everything up real well also.

Most of the wear and tear is on the bottom one since the weight of the door is on it. We spray the rubber track with SailKote 1x month and works ok. Sometimes the rubber track still slides around a bit so I am planning on gluing the rubber track in place to prevent it from getting damaged when the door sticks a bit to it. I am pretty sure if the rubber track was affixed better, it will last a long long time.

The lower one lasted 13 years, so am hoping/assuming that the "new" lower track will last another 13 or so.

[Sonosailor]

The box from Woodcraft has arrived, and both the Slick Strips and the UHMW Sheet look great. I'll zip the sheet through a table saw to get 3/4" strips, and pack them for Trini. I'll carry the Slick Strips just in case.

KILTIYM: Hi Mark. What you describe is not what I have... Hmmm We have acrylic rubbing aluminum, all sides. Except so much acrylic is gone from the bottom that the aluminum edging on the acrylic door is now dragging along the bottom aluminum channel. I wonder who has the original factory installation - or whether it changed between years. Ours is an 1996.

Regardless, sliding this stiff UHMW Sheet under the door shows promise. It will lift the door up and provide a smooth, slippery bearing surface (hopefully).

[kiltym]

Originally Posted by Sonosailor

KILTIYM: Hi Mark. What you describe is not what I have... Hmmm We have acrylic rubbing aluminum, all sides. Except so much acrylic is gone from the bottom that the aluminum edging on the acrylic door is now dragging along the bottom aluminum channel. I wonder who has the original factory installation - or whether it changed between years. Ours is an 1996.

I have attached photos of what I have.

This is on a 1998/1999 Tobago. This is the bottom. The top of the door is the same, a rubber insert.

Perhaps that is the "new" part that was not included in earlier versions of the boat.

[mfeene01]

Sonosailer -- Our Tobago is a 1994 model and we had the rubber channel inserts also. I removed what was left of the one on the bottom side of the door and put in the "Slick Strips". I would surmise that yours probably also had the rubber inserts at some point in it's life. MikeF

Mark -- How are you & Liesbet doing? Say hello for us... Patti, Mike, Chessie

[Sonosailor]

I'm back at the boat in Trinidad, and was launched yesterday. A closer examination reveals significant remnants of the rubber insert at the top of the door. No remnants at the bottom of the door. Troubles are compounded after six months of air conditioning, which causes the door to bow outwards for a week or so after launch.

At any rate, I just finished the repair. I used 3/4" by 1/8" sheet of the UHMW (two pieces with the bow up) under the door, and attached the Slick Strips to the sides of the door where it rubs inside the aluminum, and all is well so far. I sprayed it with Team McLube dry lubricant for good measure.

Thanks for all the advice.