Dying Dead Raymarine E120

[Highland Fling]

Some kind soul decided to remove the helm canvas cover while Highland Fling was parked on the hard in St Martin. This was 'ahead' of a forecast TS/HC heading for St Martin.

It would seem that the then exposed E120 'cooked' itself in its Navpod, as once we got Highland Fling in the water it only worked for a few days. Then the contrast/brightness went 'darker' than the night screen brightness and it was not adjustable. Then a few days later it just 'died'.

I suspect it is back to the UK to get an estimate/quote for repaining it.

BUT I am posting here to see IF therre is someone local (Caribbean) who was the skills and parts to repair these units.

A new plotter seems 'expensive' then we have a lovely swiveling NAVPOD that fits/suits the E120 very well. Yes i know that the new plotters have adapter plates but the E120 has a nice square display not like the new wide screens, which seem a bit odd to me as you want to see more ahead rather than to the side, but who am I to see something wonky with the wider aspect screens.....only the customer

[Jman]

There are a bunch of nearly new E120s on EBay, if you decide to just replace with same.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[wingless]

The Raymarine service center has fixed price repair for these units.

The backlight inverter is a common failure. It might even be possible as a DIY repair for someone w/ electronics skills.

The US repair center is in New Hampshire.

The plotter aspect ratio genesis had been tall narrow, to standard TV ratio to widescreen ratio. The wide ratio is handy for multifunction displays, side by each on one screen.

[Black Diamond]

I've found E120 units on e-Bay (new or near new) for $900 US. Its a simple swap and probably not much more than the repair would cost. An E80 would be even less.

Rick

[sy_gilana]

You can fix this yourself really cheaply, please shine a light on the screen and tell me if it is indeed the backlighting that has failed. You will see the normal screens, everything working, but just dark.
If so I have a fix for you, cost about $30...max...

[sy_gilana]

PS I don't check the forums regularly so please email me for the solution

[Ka9dvl]

I've got this issue and I'm sure it's the back light.
Can you help?
Thanks
Ritch

[sy_gilana]

Hi Rich. It depends what your problem is. If the inverter board has gone but the tubes are ok, then you could get the inverter board repaired. If the tubes have gone, then there is no repair except to find used good tubes on eBay. BUT!!! This is what I did to fix it for a friend. Open the unit, and very carefully remove the light box from the LCD, but DO NOT separate the LCD assembly. Remove the broken tubes, and all the associated junk, and the inverter board. Buy a 12 V reel of LED lights with a sticky back, and find the scissors marks and cut them to strips that will fit in the back of the box stuck against it. You must solder a parallel connection of wires to the solder points, leaving about 8" spare. The strip lighting will not take a bend, it will become unstuck. Locate the cooling fan, and the other unused cooling fan socket that provides....YES, 12V !! and power the LEDs from that. The dimmer does not work, obviously but, you will be able to see the screen again. If you want to get fancy, get one of those remote control LEDs and you can change colours, dimmer, whatever you like.

[Ka9dvl]

How many strips of light do you recommend?
9 inches across 7 inches high
what distance between strips of lights?
maybe 4 to 6 strips? or more?

and I'm thinking 5000-6000K in temperature?
or should I use a more cooler temp? 3000 or so?
I've got it all disassembled now and ready to go

Thanks

Ritch

[Yoeman]

My e 120has the same issue with dim back lighting and it was priced at over $700 to repair
How did the 30$ fix work out
Any tips

[Ka9dvl]

I did infact get some strip LED’s 6500K in temp
I removed the flourescent bulb and bulb holder
I put 5 strips across and it makes the display come to life
It’s the most vivid display I’ve seen
But, I have an issue finding switched 12v power to power them.
I tried to take power from the second fan socket but that didn’t work.
If I can solve my switched 12v issue i’d be golden.
I don’t want to put an external switch on the unit and spoil the water tight enclosure.
If you were to put an aux hole and supply then you could also dim the LED’s
If anyone has an idea I’m all ears.

Ritch

[marinemods]

Originally Posted by Ka9dvl

I did infact get some strip LED’s 6500K in temp
I removed the flourescent bulb and bulb holder
I put 5 strips across and it makes the display come to life
It’s the most vivid display I’ve seen
But, I have an issue finding switched 12v power to power them.
I tried to take power from the second fan socket but that didn’t work.
If I can solve my switched 12v issue i’d be golden.
I don’t want to put an external switch on the unit and spoil the water tight enclosure.
If you were to put an aux hole and supply then you could also dim the LED’s
If anyone has an idea I’m all ears.

Ritch

Is there not 12V at the fan when switched on? I am going to have to check that. You can use a Logic Level MosFET and tap 5VDC to the gate and 12V to the source. The 5V will act like a switch. I really want to figure out the DIM function. I know there is a person on eBay claiming it will work so I am assuming he came up with his own design. I have a patent schematic which shows there is a PWM circuit with these unit. If this is true you should be able to use a LED driver board.

[marinemods]

So there is 12V there but the fan does not stay on all the time.