Rule Bilge Pump Float Switch Problems

[Mainebristol]

Plus one for the Ultra Junior. I don't know offhand who's float switch I had previously. I don't care. The Ultra Junior is simple, built like a brick, and flat out works. I no longer worry about this stuff.

[doggo]

Just finished a DIY float switch that I have big hopes for. I use a cheap Stainless Float Switch and a 12V automotive Relay. I have also added a couple of Flyback diodes to hopefully reduce arcing and prolong contact wear of both relay and float switches. $ are CAD
Parts:
1 x float switch ($4 for 3 inc epacket shipping aliexpress)
1 x relay ($10 for 5 inc epacket shipping aliexpress)
1 x 1 1/2" PVC pipe end stop ($3.50)
1 x 1 1/2" PVC pipe fitting for removable end stop ($1.60)
1 x 1 1/2" PVC pipe screw in End stop ($1.60)
1 x 1 1/2" PVC pipe Union ($1)
1 x cable gland
6" 1 1/2" Pipe
PVC adhesive
1 x scrap piece of PVC cut into a circle same diameter as inside diameter of pipe.
Last picture shows it strapped to a pump for testing but I want to make a proper bracket, maybe fixing it to boat rather than pump. \

I can add a circuit diagram if anyone is interested. All in I spent around $12 on this but already had some of the parts.

[doggo]

Yeah I know I should clean the crap out of my bilge!

[doggo]

Build Notes:

1. I used a hole saw to cut a disc of pvc (G) and then enlarged the hole to take the threaded part of the float switch.
2. Glue disc upto the flat in one half of the Coupler (A)
3. Glue E into the same side of the Coupler (A) that you fitted the disc.
4. Glue (I) onto the other end of (E)
5 Drill a hole into the top (square) of (C) for the Cable gland (J). I couldn't get the cable gland nut to fit so glued the gland (J) into (C).
6. Drill 1/8 inch holes all round bottom of (B)
7. Insert H into Coupler (A) (the empty side of course)
8. Drill 4 holes 1/16" in (H) just below the top of (H) when it is fitted in (A) (this is to allow air to escape as water enters holes in (B))
9. Part (H) is cut to length later to give you your switch on/off height
10 Part (B) pushes onto the other end of (H) (only so far that holes in B are still open for water to enter).

Joints (H) to (A) and (H) to (B) are not glued to allow adjustment/cleaning
Joints (G) to (A), (E) to (A), (I) to (E) should all be watertight joints.
I put a circular piece of foam inside (H) to keep the relay from sitting on float switch wires.

The relay once wired slides nicely into (H), the 3 wires are threaded through the gland (not tightened yet), then (C) is screwed into (I) and finally gland is tightened. I put shrink wrap over end of gland (J) as it wasn't possible to seal round the wires using the gland nut.

[doggo]

I updated the circuit to add some delay to switch off, works great now.

[Sailorman97]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Redsky, Rule hasn't made that switch in about ten years.

This is the current production switch.

Year after year, the Rule-A-Matic has been the switch of choice for boaters the world over. Our latest design now includes a removable base for easy cleaning and servicing, a mercury free snap switch tested to over one million cycles and marine grade "blocked" wire. Designed for pumps drawing up to 14 Amps. Model 35A and 35FA now includes a 2 year warranty.
Link: Rule-A-Matic Float Switch

Lets be clear here. Rule switches are complete garbage. I have 2 of your Ruleamatic plus with almost no use and when I needed them failed. Almost lost the boat. I have tried Rule remote air pressure switches too. Complete garbage. Never work properly.

I will make my own with an aurdino ans some moisture strips

[paulo7]

No matter what automatic float switches I used over the years, they always seem to fail, even when staying in dry bilges .. I am not sure why. Different brands, different concepts, manufacturers seems to find normal to have to replace them every few years or so!
A failing bilge pump can have dramatic consequences so I choose to add a DIY water alarm system with multiple sensors as a backup alarm should any of the automatic bilge float switches fail ... I just posted last week about this ... it is a zwetke.com product.

[paulo7]

I used these moisture sensors and they work so far ... but perhaps not for a prolonged immersion in salt water ??? but it gives you an idea ... and they are cheap enough

https://www.amazon.com/Zwetke-Water-.../dp/B0953P8GB4

Originally Posted by Sailorman97

Lets be clear here. Rule switches are complete garbage. I have 2 of your Ruleamatic plus with almost no use and when I needed them failed. Almost lost the boat. I have tried Rule remote air pressure switches too. Complete garbage. Never work properly.

I will make my own with an aurdino ans some moisture strips

[Kelkara]

I just had a rule-a-matic switch fail after five years ... not a bad lifetime for something that inhabits the dank bilge.

So I cut it open to see how it had failed...

The inside of the switch was damp but not wet, with the small amount if water clearly entering via the switch axle.

One half of the spring mechanism had broken, but it was still functioning fine with just the other half.

The contacts still worked, measuring 0.3ohm in the closed position.

But the plastic inside the switch had clearly overheated and started to melt. There is a thermal cut-off fuse that obviously did its job and blew when things got too hot.

So why did it overheat? I guess it got stuck on for too long, and the resistance of the contacts was high enough that things got hot. The attached pump is still fine.

I've replaced it with another one ... I don't want to have to re-engineer the set-up in my very inaccessible sump.

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

I just had a rule-a-matic switch fail after five years ... not a bad lifetime for something that inhabits the dank bilge.

So I cut it open to see how it had failed...

The inside of the switch was damp but not wet, with the small amount if water clearly entering via the switch axle.

One half of the spring mechanism had broken, but it was still functioning fine with just the other half.

The contacts still worked, measuring 0.3ohm in the closed position.

But the plastic inside the switch had clearly overheated and started to melt. There is a thermal cut-off fuse that obviously did its job and blew when things got too hot.

So why did it overheat? I guess it got stuck on for too long, and the resistance of the contacts was high enough that things got hot. The attached pump is still fine.

I've replaced it with another one ... I don't want to have to re-engineer the set-up in my very inaccessible sump.

I don't consider Rule to be a premium brand. When I worked in a boat yard, I found some of those switches that were bad right out of the package, brand new.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

But the plastic inside the switch had clearly overheated and started to melt. There is a thermal cut-off fuse that obviously did its job and blew when things got too hot.

So why did it overheat? I guess it got stuck on for too long, and the resistance of the contacts was high enough that things got hot.

IIRC, in the formula for heat the value for current is squared.
Use the switch to operate a relay, (like one of those Bosch "cubes").
Now the switch doesn't have to carry the current that the pump draws.