Snubber Version 3

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by Ocean Girl

Splicing question, hope it's ok to butt in here.

I'm making another snubber for Rain Dog. I'm just not sure which splice to use between the 3 strand 7/16 (30ft)and the endura braid with dyneema core (ordered 10 feet but not sure I'm going to use all of it). I will also have a "rubber snubber" in the three strand section.

So which splice would you all advise for three strand to endura braid double braid?

Splice to splice, meaning two eye splices?

Yes, two eye splices, then cow hitched together, is both strongest and easy to undo if you need to replace one of the pieces.

Originally Posted by gjordan

Never heard the term TUG BOAT HITCH before. Could someone bring me out of my ignorance????? ______Grant.

Also called a lighterman's hitch . . . Picture here:http://www.bethandevans.com/JPG/tugb.bmp

I also use it to secure dock lines and drogues rodes to the winches, as it does not load the winch Pawls and can be tied and untied and adjusted while under load.

[gjordan]

Wow, learn something every day. That looks like a very useful hitch to know, but like Anne said, practice until it is second nature. Got to love this forum. _____Grant.

[RainDog]

Lighterman's (Tugboat) Hitch | How to tie the Lighterman's (Tugboat) Hitch | Boating Knots

[thinwater]

I understand the Amsteel for non-stretch (no chafing movement) over the chocks and the long snubber, but there is an inherent problem; in light winds the snubber/bridle apex lies on the bottom, subject to cutting and chafe. For those that like hooks, they will come off.

Some cat sailors are using long bridles anchored to the midships or aft cleats. This gives a long bridle where the apex is off the bottom. This is a common problem for cats, since they often anchor in shallow water--anything over 6 feet seems abyssal. Seems it deserves further development, for certain boats with certain anchoring needs.

Chafe gear is critical, but it seems a valid solution for getting a smooth ride in shallow water on an all-chain rode.

Thoughts?



Sail Delmarva: Search results for long bridle

[JonJo]

Originally Posted by thinwater

I understand the Amsteel for non-stretch (no chafing movement) over the chocks and the long snubber, but there is an inherent problem; in light winds the snubber/bridle apex lies on the bottom, subject to cutting and chafe. For those that like hooks, they will come off.

Some cat sailors are using long bridles anchored to the midships or aft cleats. This gives a long bridle where the apex is off the bottom. This is a common problem for cats, since they often anchor in shallow water--anything over 6 feet seems abyssal. Seems it deserves further development, for certain boats with certain anchoring needs.

Chafe gear is critical, but it seems a valid solution for getting a smooth ride in shallow water on an all-chain rode.

Thoughts?



Sail Delmarva: Search results for long bridle

We are using a bridle (11mm climbing rope) from each aft cleat on our cat, turning blocks on each bow, and are trialing hollow dyneema tape as chafe guards (with the 11mm climbing rope threaded through). We use a common chain hook. Unstretched the bridle just 'kisses' the water at anchor and clips up, not quite tight, under the prodder 'at sea'.

Jonathan

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

When we just used one rubber snubber I could definitely see it stretch quite a bit, but now using two of them, it's not so noticeable. They last for years. Most of the shock is actually absorbed by the weight of the 1/2 chain. The rubber snubbers prevent any tugging by the chain and allow at least one foot of stretch. Each line coming off the snubber is routed through the end of our double bow roller.

I like the addition of the rubber absorber to an already properly sized snub line. Belts and suspenders, so to speak.

[DeepFrz]

Google is your friend.

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by thinwater

For those that like hooks, they will come off.

Ditch the chain hook and replace it with a soft shackle . . . It's a real improvement. Never accidentally drops off, can run in and out over the chain roller, a couple bucks to make your own.

[jcapo]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

Then a 'splice to splice' join (rather than the old double sheet bend) between the brait and the dyneema. (I need to melt the strands sticking out from the brait splice). There was no failure of the sheet bend, but the double splice should be superior.

I've been using an Dyneema soft shackle attached to the chain with a cow hitch for almost a year of daily anchoring. No signs of chafe at all.

Evans, what kind of splice did you use for the Dyneema eye that is hitched to the Brait?

[estarzinger]

^^

I used a locked brumel for the dyneema eye splice. It's what I use when both ends of the line are "available".

I use the simple bury splice when I have only one end to work with. It's the same strength, but can possibly shake out in low load jerking - which is prevented by sewing it (I sew both splices just as good practice).

[PhilDuhs]

Here's the snubber I made up this summer for my boat 37 Rocks - the goal was to have a low-profile snubber that would lie flat on deck to eliminate wear on both the deck and the snubber. When under load it "hovers" just above the deck level. Red canvas tubing is just a bit of added protection around the splicing and the plastic tube protects the snubber rope from the cheeks on the stainless bow fitting (what's it called??) as the boat hunts back and forth in strong wind.

[Cotemar]

Catamaran Anchor Bridal,

I wanted a bit more stretch in the anchor bridal, so I made a new one out of 5/8 three strand and 19-1/2" long rubber mooring snubbers to it to prevent snatch loads (wind gusts) from tugging on the anchor
All the knots are figure 8 knots which are stronger than the original bowline knots used.
Added a piece of 42 inch long x 1-1/4 inside diameter clear hose as chafe guard. Purchased 43 feet of 5/8 three strand and two rubber mooring snubber at a total cost of $138 usd.

I use a 3/16 dia. Amsteel Soft Shackle which fits nicely throught a 5/16 G4 link of my anchor chain.

Have been using this new anchor bridal for the last year now and any snatch loads from
wind gusts are gone and she rides the anchor so much smoother.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

^^

I used a locked brumel for the dyneema eye splice. It's what I use when both ends of the line are "available".

I use the simple bury splice when I have only one end to work with. It's the same strength, but can possibly shake out in low load jerking - which is prevented by sewing it (I sew both splices just as good practice).

Just as easy to tie when they are not, but different; just google it.

And I agree with sewing most splices; I did a bunch of washing machine testing for an article and most non-sewn splices milked apart. Even locked bromell splices sometimes distorted, though it was perhaps an unrealist test. Then again, when a genoa flogs....

[thinwater]

While it's tempting to get fancy, I look at a snubber as disposable. After a certain number of waves the stretch is gone. To me, it should be something you can through together from a pair of docklines and stuff you have on hand in a few minutes. Most of these designs you can. Some parts may be reuseable, but the arms are toast from an energy viewpoint.

If it's sized for stretch, perhaps 100 days must be the limit, maybe less depending on the waves. Longer snubbers will last longer, from an energy standpoint.

[Tingum]

I see one mistake that no one has jumped on and that is the eye splice to be dropped over the forward cleats. Bad idea, you would have to cut it if you needed to slip it under load in a hurry! Thinwater makes a good point that for cruisers who anchor often this is a piece of disposable wear prone gear with a limited useful life, no need to go nuts.