Rigging Inspection Needed - Bristol, RI

[Iain]

I am in the process of closing on a 35' sloop with original rod rigging. The boat is 25 yes old. I plan to sail it south from RI to Norfolk in about 1 month.

Can anyone recommend a Navtec rod rigging inspector in the area?
How should I go about this process?
Should I pay to have a full rigging survey performed or should I try to have a yard/rigger give me an estimate on repair/replacement after looking at the rigging?

Any recommendations greatly appreciated.

Iain

[btrayfors]

I'd replace it. Twenty-five year old Navtec rod rigging might look OK, but is very likely to be compromised. I had Navtec RR on my boat; a turnbuckle failed in the topmast shroud, had to replace the whole shroud. A year later, I bit the bullet and replaced all the standing rigging, this time with 10mm British Steel s/s rigging, new rigging screws, and new chainplates. Don't forget the chainplates.

I left only one short piece of the original Navtec RR on the boat....a jumper stay between the keel and a deck fitting for a baby stay. It, too, failed about 100 miles north of Puerto Rico.

JMO,

Bill

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by Iain

I am in the process of closing on a 35' sloop with original rod rigging. The boat is 25 yes old. I plan to sail it south from RI to Norfolk in about 1 month.

Can anyone recommend a Navtec rod rigging inspector in the area?
How should I go about this process?
Should I pay to have a full rigging survey performed or should I try to have a yard/rigger give me an estimate on repair/replacement after looking at the rigging?

Any recommendations greatly appreciated.

Iain

New England Yacht Rigging in East G is an old well-established business with lots of experience. We've used them in the past and although they are not cheap, they are fair and have always provided excellent service.

[Iain]

So do I go for a full rigging survey first or will the potential dealer/rigger inspect and confirm what components need to be replaced.

Does anyone have any input on experiences with converting to standard wire rigging?

[Butler]

In my humble armchair opinion would definately get a rigger who knowns rod rigging to asses the health of the fittings, though on one boat I know the fittings are half way tucked up into the mast and would be impossible to get at for a look unless the mast were down and the fittings freed so this could get pricey.

I agree that it would be best to convert to wire if you are going to cruise the boat and I don't think it would be a big deal.

After getting the survey you could get an estimate from the same rigger for the conversion and citing the need to change out use that as a bargaining chip.

[Boracay]

A rigging inspection is going to be expensive and not reliable.

Better to put the money towards new rigging.

The rigger will be happier about the job if they can pull the mast and replace the lot. There will be other work on the mast that needs doing. Going to be cheaper in the long run...

If you can find someone to replace the chain plates they'll be faster if the stick is out.

[Iain]

Thank you for the info. About how much should I expect an entire replacement with rod rigging to cost? 35' sloop. How about if it was replaced with standard wire rigging?
Also, the bulkheads are offset relative to where the rigging hits the deck. The current chain plates look to be a special set up to accommodate for this offset. Will this be an issue if switching back to wire? It is difficult because I am 11 hrs from the boat.
Thanks!

[Iain]

I got a rough estimate to convert to wire rigging for $3,500. The main problem with this is the rigger wants me to bring the boat to his shop.

Is it standard practice to take the boat to the rigger? The boat is currently on the hard at a yard.

[OLDSON]

Bump.
As I will be having this done more than likely, the question is 3500 an acceptable price.
For the materials and labor?

[ssanzone]

are your talking about standing or running? 3500 seems a bit high for running and a bit low for standing.

price aside... i would not waste anytime. you said you intend to sail south in about a month... i would not be surprised is your boat's rigging was still incomplete. in 4 weeks.

gl

-steve

[roverhi]

Rod rigging can supposedly be reheaded once. Believe they reccomend doing this at 10 years and scrapping at 20. Might have a rigger look at it to see if it has been reheaded. If it has, I woudn't chance it and would replace. Check with a rigger though to see if that is what the current thinking is.

FWIW, I haven't had very good luck with Navtec turnbuckles in the tropics. Replaced the first set after 2 years because of cracks and the second set had cracks after 4 years. Hope their rod rigging lasts longer than their turnbuckles.

You should be able to rerig the boat yourself in an afternoon with 316 wire and Norseman/StaLok terminals for about $1,200. Rod rigging is more expensive and has to be done by a rigger with the equipment to fabricate it. No experience with what people are getting to rig with rod.

You might check to see if you can get Dyform wire. It is stronger, lower stretch than conventional wire and uses Norseman/StaLok terminals with special cones. Near the performance of rod but with lower cost. I was told that no one was making it a couple of years ago because of some disagreement between the patent holder and the manufacturers. Maybe that's been resolved by now and it is back in inventory.

Last but not least, they are now rigging boats with the new super low stretch synthetic line. Way stronger than wire or rod and less than 1/2 the weight. UV is the potential problem with the stuff (Dynex Dux) though I've heard lionger than 7 years. It hasn't been in use long enough to give real world definitive answers to it's longevity.

[sailingaway221]

I would say you probably are saving yourself money by bringing it to him. IE he wont charge you his travel time if the boat is at his shop. Secondly I imagine it is a much more efficient and thus cheaper solution to have the boat there... ie if he needs to cut or press or measure twice or check something the boat is already there. A lot of rigging shops want the boat there. I would say that's not unusual at all and a benefit dollar wise to you.

[roverhi]

I hope his shop is at a marina or shore based boat yard.

Nothing so easy as hooking your 35' boat to the back of your Prius and hauling it to the local rigger in some land bound industrial area. That is if you have a trailer, of course.

[Paul L]

Your boat has a very low stretch high quality rod on it, albeit old. You could go to the Navtec site and look at the inspection levels for rod. You would want the full-bore inspection, Level C. In this inspection you can have the heads dye tested for cracks. You will probably need to replace the turn buckles in the process. If you do consider this path, you will still have 25 year old rigging except the turnbuckles and any rod that gets replaced due to inspection issues. I'd suggest getting a quote for a re-rig with rod, replacing turnbuckles and any suspect mast fittings.
If you go to wire, then you will be using significantly larger and heavier wire than the rod it replaces to meet the design of the mast and boat, as the rod has much less stretch. You will also be replacing all the end fittings because they will be Navtec rod fittings. I think your 3.5k quote is pretty low and just may not include all that really needs to be replaced so you are comfortable and feel you have a bullet proof rig. Assuming you get a re-quote and it is higher and more complete, I'd get a quote to go with new rod too. If it is just only a bit higher, think about sticking with rod. You have less engineering to do because it is a one for one replacement, the resale value may be better depending on the boat and the performance will be better.