Winterizing Sanitation System

[twistedtree]

When winterizing the sanitation system, what about the overboard pump-out lines and the pump itself? I have pumped out my holding tank, flushed with fresh water and detergent, and pumped that out. I will flush a gallon or so of pink stuff down each head to protect the vacu-flush pump and lines leading to the holding tank, and I figure the pink stuff that ends up in the tank will prevent freezing of the residuals in the tank. Does that much sound right?

But what about the overboard pump and lines? I could load up the tank with pink stuff and pump it overboard, but that means taking the boat back out beyond the 3 mile limit. Or I could do the same after the boat is hauled and hold a bucket up to the discharge to catch what comes out, but finding a volunteer to hold the bucket may prove difficult.

Suggestions?

[Noname]

Originally Posted by twistedtree

When winterizing the sanitation system, what about the overboard pump-out lines and the pump itself? I have pumped out my holding tank, flushed with fresh water and detergent, and pumped that out. I will flush a gallon or so of pink stuff down each head to protect the vacu-flush pump and lines leading to the holding tank, and I figure the pink stuff that ends up in the tank will prevent freezing of the residuals in the tank. Does that much sound right?

But what about the overboard pump and lines? I could load up the tank with pink stuff and pump it overboard, but that means taking the boat back out beyond the 3 mile limit. Or I could do the same after the boat is hauled and hold a bucket up to the discharge to catch what comes out, but finding a volunteer to hold the bucket may prove difficult.

Suggestions?

Pour some pink stuff into the deck waste pumpout. It should fill any low spots.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by twistedtree

When winterizing the sanitation system, what about the overboard pump-out lines and the pump itself? I have pumped out my holding tank, flushed with fresh water and detergent, and pumped that out. I will flush a gallon or so of pink stuff down each head to protect the vacu-flush pump and lines leading to the holding tank, and I figure the pink stuff that ends up in the tank will prevent freezing of the residuals in the tank. Does that much sound right?

But what about the overboard pump and lines? I could load up the tank with pink stuff and pump it overboard, but that means taking the boat back out beyond the 3 mile limit. Or I could do the same after the boat is hauled and hold a bucket up to the discharge to catch what comes out, but finding a volunteer to hold the bucket may prove difficult.

Suggestions?

If the overboad pump is above the waterline everything should drain once hauled with the seacock open...those kind of pumps should self drain....if in doubt...run it a second or two with a sheet of plastic on the ground or position a bucket on a ladder if you can't get someone to hold it.

[twistedtree]

Originally Posted by Seaduction

Pour some pink stuff into the deck waste pumpout. It should fill any low spots.

The "stuff" in my holding tank has two ways out. The is a deck fitting for a shore-side pump out, and there is an on-board pump to sends the stuff into the sea. The deck pump-out can be handled as you describe, but it's the on-board system that I'm worried about. I'll double check, but I believe the flow comes up out of the tank, down to the pump, then back up to the thruhull discharge fitting. This makes the pump and attached hoses a low point where fluids can collect. I don't know enough about this style pump to know if it really evacuates the lines enough to be safe, or if it requires further action. The last thing I want is a fractured, leaving pump in the spring.

[peghall]

Winterizing Plumbing

FRESH WATER SYSTEM

1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets).

2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of getting all the water out of it.

3.Do NOT put antifreeze in the water heater. Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together to bypass it. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores.

4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.

As an alternative to antifreeze, some owners prefer to use an air compressor to blow all the water out of the plumbing. This does require disconnecting some fittings in low places where water can pool.

Whether you use antifreeze or not, add "recommission fresh water system" to your spring recommissioning list.


SANITATION SYSTEM

1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. Also run plenty of clean fresh water through any macerator or manual discharge pump.

2. Sea water toilet: Just flushing antifreeze through the bowl will not protect the intake line, the toilet pump or the bowl...it'll only go out the discharge to the tank. To protect the whole system, it's necessary to close the toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze (or, if your toilet intake is connected to your head sink drain line, just close the seacock and pour the antifreeze down the sink). Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull.

Turn the y-valve in the tank discharge line to let antifreeze run into any macerator or overboard discharge line. Operate the pump or macerator long enough to pull antifreeze through it.

If your toilet uses onboard pressurized water, all you need to do is flush antifreeze into the tank...winterizing the fresh water system took care of the rest.

3. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.

Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.

Don't forget to purge the hand held shower and the shower sump and pump. If the sump has ANY water left in it, put some antifreeze in it and run it through the pump.

[twistedtree]

Originally Posted by peghall

Winterizing Plumbing

FRESH WATER SYSTEM

1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets).

2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of getting all the water out of it.

3.Do NOT put antifreeze in the water heater. Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together to bypass it. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores.

4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.

As an alternative to antifreeze, some owners prefer to use an air compressor to blow all the water out of the plumbing. This does require disconnecting some fittings in low places where water can pool.

Whether you use antifreeze or not, add "recommission fresh water system" to your spring recommissioning list.


SANITATION SYSTEM

1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. Also run plenty of clean fresh water through any macerator or manual discharge pump.

2. Sea water toilet: Just flushing antifreeze through the bowl will not protect the intake line, the toilet pump or the bowl...it'll only go out the discharge to the tank. To protect the whole system, it's necessary to close the toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze (or, if your toilet intake is connected to your head sink drain line, just close the seacock and pour the antifreeze down the sink). Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull.

Turn the y-valve in the tank discharge line to let antifreeze run into any macerator or overboard discharge line. Operate the pump or macerator long enough to pull antifreeze through it.

If your toilet uses onboard pressurized water, all you need to do is flush antifreeze into the tank...winterizing the fresh water system took care of the rest.

3. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.

Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.

Don't forget to purge the hand held shower and the shower sump and pump. If the sump has ANY water left in it, put some antifreeze in it and run it through the pump.

Thanks, Peggie. I saw your check list on the trawler list and it prompted my question.

I've done (or will do) step 1, which leaves the tank, pump, and lines with residual water that is more or less clean. Flushing pink down the toilets will take care of the vacuum pump, tank, and interconnecting lines.

But it's the overboard pump and lines that I'm still worried about since they presumably still contain more or less clean water.

[marshmat]

If the overboard discharge pump is the low point in the system, and it can't easily be drained, then yes, it's at risk for bursting from freezing.

If there's any way at all to drain that pump, do it. If not, mutter some choice words about the guy who thought that would be a good place for the pump, then get some antifreeze into it, somehow. This might mean pumping a bit of antifreeze from the holding tank, in which case someone would have to be ready with a bucket under the discharge port to catch any excess.

The preferred solution, of course, is to set a heading of one-eight-zero degrees, hoist the sails, and wait until Polaris is less than a hand's width above the horizon....

[peghall]

Any tank overboard discharge line will drain back into the tank if pump is above the tank. If the pump is below the tank, antifreeze in the tank will drain into it. In either case, once the boat is out of the water, open the thru-hull and operate the pump long enough to push antifreeze through it to replace any water and push all liquid out the thru-hull. Leave the thru-hull open till spring to make sure the system can drain if it needs to.