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Old 29-12-2008, 16:45   #1
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Replacement Seacocks?

Getting close to haul out time and I have been considering replacing all seacocks as some of ours are stuck tight. These are the old conical type I believe they are called. I have also heard to grease them and they are fine. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 29-12-2008, 17:07   #2
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Seacocks

There have been many threads regarding seacocks. If you use the search function information should come up. The good quality brands, Wilcox, Grocco, Spartan, etc. can last a very long time indeed. A very simple matter to break them down, clean and lubricate with grease. Considering the cost of good quality bronze seacocks if there is not some kind of severe issue with the present fittings stay with what you've got. The key is to lubricate once a season (Twice is better) and like your body excersise the valves often.
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Old 29-12-2008, 17:08   #3
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Take them apart and use sandpaper to clean of old corrosion, then put back together and you should be in business. (Unless the bronze have turned pink, in that case they need to be replaced.)
Use plenty of salt-water grease, available at yer local hardware store for trailer-wheel bearings, and tighten enough so you can close and open without tools.

Some of the bronze sea-cocks have a rubber "O" ring or two on the conical part. The rings can be a pain and you may need silicone grease to lube them lighty. Even so, if you over-tighten the "O" rings will come apart and it will leak constantly.

If ya need new sea-cocks:

Perko Ball Valve Seacocks
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Old 29-12-2008, 17:36   #4
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If they are over ten years old - replace them
If you don’t know how old they are - replace them

The cheapest insurance for your boat is good WORKING seacocks.

One test you can do is hold them by the handle and hit the base lightly with a hammer, if they don’t ring like a bell the metal is going - replace them. (Must be off the boat for this test of course)

Don’t forget the through hull, if it fails the valve isn’t much good. Esp. if you just have ball valves and not true seacocks.
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Old 29-12-2008, 17:38   #5
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Thanks that is very encouraging as the cost of all new seacocks is somewhat outrageous.
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Old 29-12-2008, 18:02   #6
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Conical? I think your getting it confused with a brand name. Plug Valves FRP Plug Valve Mil-V-24509A

The best thing for metallic plug valves is a very heavy lubricant. This is what we use in the valve industry. LUBCHEM Inc.

The Formasil RS is the most common and the lea$t amount. It comes in tubes just like the grease gun inserts. It lubricates and fills the minor scratches and voids to seal the valve.

If that is what you have and they are in good shape they are worth saving.

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Old 29-12-2008, 22:14   #7
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My old Wilcox seacocks were all stuck tight when I purchased my boat.
They are now in great shape!

I took the Hoses off and removed the drain screws and squirted lock-eze around them..let it stew for awhile. I did this several times. I took the end cap off and with a block of wood and a rubber mallet lightly tapped them out. I Sanded them down to clean shiny metal, greased them and replaced them. I think I used a fine emory. Put all new hoses and clamps on, and I expect them to last longer than me. I kept the lock-eze away from any fiberglass or bedding compound. it's worth a shot imo.
Don't forget to put the screws back and close them..before getting wet again.

Good luck,

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Old 30-12-2008, 02:13   #8
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If they are conical in there shape and horizontal you can loosen the nut on the end opposite the handle and tap them lightly with a hammer toward the end with the handle.

This will loosen them enough to open or close them....I would not operate them more than what is absolutely required as you may be scarring them.

Next time you go out of the water take them a part and inspect clean.

I do not agree that they should be replaced based on there age alone.

If they are a good quality bronze cock they will certainly last much, much longer than 10 years.

All this info is my opinion, if your boat sinks following my advice, I'm not responsible!
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Old 30-12-2008, 06:23   #9
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Let me start some controversy. Good quality (I have had good experience with Spartan) bronze, unbonded, seacocks should last practically forever with periodic maintenance, unless you are in a really hot marina.

Really surprised that as far as I can tell no one has mentioned lapping them after cleaning them up, as this is how to true the mating surfaces so they don't leak.

IMHO Spartan, Perko, etc traditional tapered seacocks are much better than any ball valve (usually chrome-plated brass or stainless ball, neither of which can be trusted in salt water) or practically anything else available today, with the possible exception of Marelon, which has its own problems if not maintained.
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Old 30-12-2008, 06:57   #10
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I agree lapping...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oceansandmts View Post
Let me start some controversy. Good quality (I have had good experience with Spartan) bronze, unbonded, seacocks should last practically forever with periodic maintenance, unless you are in a really hot marina.

Really surprised that as far as I can tell no one has mentioned lapping them after cleaning them up, as this is how to true the mating surfaces so they don't leak.

IMHO Spartan, Perko, etc traditional tapered seacocks are much better than any ball valve (usually chrome-plated brass or stainless ball, neither of which can be trusted in salt water) or practically anything else available today, with the possible exception of Marelon, which has its own problems if not maintained.
Spartans are perhaps the best built seacocks made but are also VERY expensive. Please DO NOT take sand paper to the tapered cone or valve body. Use a lapping compound only and then some prussian blue to check your work and to make sure it's even. If you want to clean them up a little acid goes along way to removing the verdigris (green gunk)..

If you're replacing them I would vote for nothing but Spartans or Groco flanged adapters and then a UL marine BV on each adapter. With the flanged adapters you can simply replace a BV/seacock in under five minutes..!!!

Spartan:



Groco Flanged Adapter (in between the thru-hull and ball valve):
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Old 30-12-2008, 09:27   #11
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Acoustic, Great Photo...I mispoke, that is my seacock (spartan) . It's my head that's a Wilcox.
Great to hear that they are so highly rated. Thanks for the tip on lapping compound.
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Old 30-12-2008, 10:18   #12
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Those old tapered seacocks should last forever. I used to use Anhydrous Lanolin instead of grease. It does not go away and, as the name (anhydrous) implies is not effected by water. In colder climes it does make the seacock harder to turn. Thae each seacock apart and clean it thouroughly, rub the lanolin on the tapered barrel evenly. It available in marine hardware places as "Lanocote" but is expensive and usually in a small tube. A good old fashioned drug store can order you a jar.
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Old 30-12-2008, 18:20   #13
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By the way, peened over the thread end of one my bungs while tapping it out. Thankfully, my yard's machine shop was able to rethread it.
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Old 31-12-2008, 02:58   #14
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I agree, with the conical type, just back the nut off 1/2 a turn and rap the shaft with a dead-blow hammer and re-tighten the nut...good for another year. I have seen more than once people throwing these perfectly good valves away thinking the were seized. You should price one of these in 2"...Geeeezzz!!!
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Old 31-12-2008, 04:35   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest245 View Post
By the way, peened over the thread end of one my bungs while tapping it out. Thankfully, my yard's machine shop was able to rethread it.

Itís common practice to back a nut off until itís flush with the end of the thread...and tap on the combination of the two, this saves the thread.
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