Propane Problem

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by jomac1

im sorry to say but you are totally wrong so now we have two theories from the welding guy /hardware assistant ,for what useful cause would youfully open any gas valve it will not seal on the stem and just takes longer to turn off in emergency , in a enginneering or metal workshop on your first day of employment if the foreman /super saw you doing that your feet would not touch the ground you would be out on your ear bye the way have worked with gas for 40 years plumber gasfitter licenced inspector

Having done a little research on the interweb, it seems the correct procedures are as follows :

It is recommended that valves on bottles and cylinders are only opened as far as needed to get sufficient flow, so they can be closed quickly in an emergency.

Needle valves on the output of regulators should be opened fully to seat the valve, THEN turned back 1/8 of a turn.

No valve, cylinder or otherwise, should ever be left fully open because they can stick and then you don't know if it's open or closed. If you want to open the valve fully, do so then close it 1/8 of a turn.

[osirissail]

Jeees guys, you all missed the old CF Thread on this type problem with propane.
See: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ion-74921.html

Basically if you have a modern propane set-up - bottle and hoses - you may have a "flow limiter" in your system that is there to restrict or sense when too much propane is flowing down the hoses/tubes. If it activates you get the symptoms the OP mentioned. It is possible this thing is activating or malfunctioning and as a result your system does not stay lit.

[cal40john]

I was taught to backseat the propane tank valve.

A Google search indicates that if this is incorrect it is pervasive.

I found a propane valve supplier that had instructions for each model of their valves that they should be back seated to prevent leaks.

Someone who claims 20 years in the propane industry that you backseat propane valves:
When you use a propane tank to barbecue, how much do you open the tank before you turn on the grill? - Yahoo! Answers


I found one place that sells the new OPD valves that advertises dual O-ring stem seals to reduce chance of leakage making me think that maybe the new OPD valves don't need to be backseated. I then found another valve catalog advertising dual o-rings with replaceable backseat. It said using the backseat will prolong the life of the orings.

Couldn't find anyone advocating not backseating a propane valve.



John

[Blue Stocking]

Check the vent screen at the bottom of the regulator. They close up with corrosion, or the mud dauber wasps fill over the screen.

[silversailor]

Thank you all for your comments. Unfortunately, I have limited mechanical abiliies/knowledge so it will takke me a while to figure out all that is being said. The tank is a 14 lb (when filledf) tall, thin aluminum tank. The regulator sits above it. Both, like the boat (a Hanse) are European. I have an additional regulator which I will try to substitute for the one that's currently being used. Then, I'll report back.

By the way, I didn't understand the comment about the "small bulb at the pilot flame." No pilot, I just light the burner direct. Only the stove has a pilot.

[Mike Banks]

If you have the kind of regulator which has a little tap to switch from one bottle to another--suspect the tap has been damaged by trying to switch bottles without turning off the first bottle and venting any pressure in the system. That happened to me. The tap works fine in one direction--but if I try to switch to the second bottle nuthin' happens. Cold showers and no coffee--

Also it is possible that the needle valve in the regulator is clogged with micro particles that somehow get into the compressed propane. Or, as someone mentioned--a pinhole in the diaphragm, but this is usually accompanied by a gas leak through the regulator housing port. Take a sniff--just remove your cigarette first--

[sailorchic34]

AH....

So being a euro tank and regulator, I'm assuming it might be set up for butane, which I think is more common over there. A Butane regulator would lock up under propane pressures. The gases properties are similar enough that down stream of the regulator one will work in place of the other. But the vapor pressures / tank pressures are different, 140 psig for propane and 23 psig for butane.

When using propane you'll need a propane regulator, and butane a butane regulator. Basically the orifice and spring rates are different in the two regulators..

Of course that asks the question is the tank rated for 200 psig for propane

[silversailor]

The tank and regulator are both rated for propane. This is my 7th season of use and first season of problem. As soon as the rain stops I'll try it as less than "full open." I did note the pressure. It was 120psi.

[zeehag]

sounds like what was happening when my solenoid was failing.

[silversailor]

Opening the valve less than full did not solve the problem. Again, the propane stopped flowing after 10 minutes. Both solenoids were still on. The regulator is actually attached to the interior of the propane locker so removing it will be a larger task than anticipated, but, that's my next step. Stay tuned.

[Mike Banks]

Just to get things right in my ancient noddle--is it the hot water service or the stove that quits or both?

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by silversailor

Opening the valve less than full did not solve the problem. Again, the propane stopped flowing after 10 minutes. Both solenoids were still on. The regulator is actually attached to the interior of the propane locker so removing it will be a larger task than anticipated, but, that's my next step. Stay tuned.

Dont remove the regulator yet, just install another one hanging there first.

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by silversailor

Opening the valve less than full did not solve the problem. Again, the propane stopped flowing after 10 minutes. Both solenoids were still on. The regulator is actually attached to the interior of the propane locker so removing it will be a larger task than anticipated, but, that's my next step. Stay tuned.

I really suggest that, before you start throwing parts at it, you do the electrical checks suggested very early on in this thread.

Switching the solenoid on does not equal the solenoid BEING on. You could have faulty wiring that gets hot after a while and breaks contact. You could have a faulty solenoid itself.

You need to check the voltage across the solenoid, when it's on (should be about 12V), and check also after 10 mins when you've lost the gas.

[zeehag]

have you checked your solenoid??? i will bet your problem is there. is how mine acted when mine failed. exactly.