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Old 24-07-2007, 17:10   #1
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Leaky Hose End

Any solutions for a small leak at the end of a hose?
It's clamped on to a Y-valve, but still leaks slightly. The hose is used for sanitation. I'd prefer not to replace the entire hose - it's clean.
Calder recommends "smearing a little caulking (aka 5200). But won't this seal that sucker on to it? I would like to be able to remove the hose once in awhile.

Thanks,
Mini
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Old 24-07-2007, 17:47   #2
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Can you trim a little bit off the end of the hose? There might be a tiny split at the end that allows the hose to weep.

John
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Old 24-07-2007, 17:56   #3
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The clamp is a good 1/2" from the end. Thinking that it may be clamped down too hard, I loosened it. That only resulted in a worse leak.
So then I tightened it down hard. But still there's a slight weep.
Yes, it may come down to trimming the end or replacing the hose... but if that's the case, then what about just applying the 5200 and replacing later. (bad idea?)
Mini
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Old 24-07-2007, 18:19   #4
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I have found that the fittings and hose can sometimes be a millimetre different. It is ok when the hose is too small as you can heat it in some boiling water and slip it on. When it is the other way it is a real pain. When I buy my plumbing fittings now I take an offcut to make sure it is all going to fit. Barbs on skin fittings to hose are a real pain lately.

If the fitting is below waterline don't put your trust in 5200. Turn the seacock off when you are not on the boat.
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Old 24-07-2007, 18:30   #5
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It's wise to always shut off all sea cocks with the exception of cockpit drains when not on the boat. Try double clamping that leaky hose and you can also strech an O ring over the barb, refit the hose over the O ring and clamp the hose right over where the O ring is situated under the hose. This will both take up the extra space if the hose is a little larger and provide a good rubber gripping surface to tighten the hose against. Also check to make sure your clamp is not stripped and is tightening as it should.
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Old 24-07-2007, 19:17   #6
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The standard kludge is to neatly wrap some layers of teflon pipe tape on the pipe to build up the diameter a bit. Then put the hose back onto the pipe, and tighten the clamp up again. Sometimes that's enough to get by for years, especially if you use wide teflon tape and wrap the teflon neatly.
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Old 24-07-2007, 20:12   #7
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I've found that using a heat gun before installation will make for a good fit.
First, smear a little dishwashing soap on the inside of the hose. Next, heat the hose enough for it to start to soften just a little bit, but not enough for it to get squishy and then quickly slide it on and after it cools a bit but is still quite warm to the touch, clamp it.

I've not had any leaks since I have used this method.

Steve B.
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Old 24-07-2007, 22:37   #8
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Is the hose a 2 layer with cloth or something else in the middle? If so, then the inner layer has a hole and is leaking though the middle. Nothing will fix this execpt a new hose.
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Old 24-07-2007, 22:50   #9
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Guess I made a huge assumption about the makeup of the hose. I assumed it was white head hose...

Steve B.
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Old 24-07-2007, 22:56   #10
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I like the o-ring suggestion. But I'm thinking it will be tough to get the hose over both the barb and the o-ring. Seems the o-ring would just slip forward.
I've used teflon tape on pipes - didn't think of using it on a plastic y-valve.
Thanks for the suggestions. So is it a consenus that applying 5200 is NOT the way to go?

Mini
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Old 24-07-2007, 22:59   #11
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Sorry, should've specified: It is your standard white sanitation hose and your standard plastic Whale Y-valve.

And oh, yes, I do close the seacocks when not in use.
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Old 25-07-2007, 09:24   #12
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OK - sometimes that white plastic sanitation hose develops small cracks or fissures (no pun intended) which has usually been caused by stretching it over a fitting. These hoses do not have much flex or give. The best attempt to remedy will be to cut about the length of the barb off the hose end, heat, lubricate with liquid soap and while hot and more flexible, push it onto the barb and double clamp quickly. If this doesn't work, you could apply 4200 or similar before joining and see if it eliminates the seepage. The 4200 is more flexible than 5200 and would provide a better sealant. There are also other products like GOOP and Mr. Sticky which worked on my holding tank fitting leak problem. Mr. Sticky claims to stick to anything even underwater - it's expensive - but worth it. Last resort would be to replace that section of hose with Trident san hose or even better chemical proof pressure hose which is what I have.

Good luck.
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Old 25-07-2007, 12:02   #13
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Goop sounds good to me. Apply the "plumbing Goop" version, which is supposed to bond to plastic better, cram on the hose, and let it dry for 24 hours before applying the clamp. That ought to fill any voids.

But, possibly make the use of a hacksaw necessary in the future. (oops.)
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Old 26-07-2007, 01:53   #14
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Thanks guys - appreciate everyone's input. I think I'll trim off the end and then smear with 4200. I'm confident she will be ready for water, et al by weekend's end.
Minitee
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Old 26-07-2007, 06:44   #15
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I've successfully used silicon in the same situation-fixed the leak and is relatively easy to remove the hose
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