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Old 29-05-2009, 05:19   #16
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Try calling Rob at Veco, NA. It's been a few years since he helped me with an installation issue, but he was absolutely super.

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Old 30-05-2009, 05:14   #17
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I'd wager the controller boards. My initial problem was the fragility of the boards in a marine environment. They come off readily without necessarily removing the compressor. A couple of screws and and pull off, three pin, plug-socket. An easy check. Boards are a little pricey, Rparts has about the best price I was able to find.
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Old 30-05-2009, 05:50   #18
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Additional update. The trouble LED on my refrigerator compressor has been on for about six months. It doesn't flash, it is just on. I haven't been able to readily determine what causes it to be on. I have read all the doc again and done searches.

The engine compartment with the compressors in it recently got flooded (The hotwater hose from my heater burst when I increased the temperature). I have electronic bilge pump sensors in my engine rooms, and they did not come on because its very fresh water. In any case, the water came up to the bottom of my engine, the only thing that go wet was my sail drive and my SSB counterpoise. BUT, a day later, my refrigerator stops cooling! SIGH... I pull the controller board, no damage! I pull the spade lugs. They look cooroded. I clean everything up, replace the power line to the compressor. Works again. Warning LED still lights. I guess I should track down why the LED stays on, but....

I guess I'll get Kollmans book and start designing my replacement system. And I did so very much not want to know that much about refrigeratant systems! $4.4k and still counting! WHO said you get what you pay for!!!???
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:23   #19
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Frigo Rocks!

I write this at the extreme risk of jinxing my Frigoboat system...

We have two "keel-cooled" frigos, one for the reefer and one for the freezer. The units have worked perfectly and continuously since September 2005. We even have had a couple of weeks each year where they have worked with the boat out of the water (yes, I know that is WRONG and out of the design parameters for the systems - we will NOT do this when hauled out in Trinidad).

In addition, the draw seems to be pretty low, although I have not isolated the units to tell you what the exact draw is.

I can't relate any customer service kudos or brickbats since we haven't made a call.

Strygaldwir, sorry that you have had problems and I don't mean to make light of the problems you have had ('cause they sound like a real PITA), but when you re-design you might want to start with putting your units somewhere besides the engine compartment.

Bottom line for me is: Frigoboat works, I have recommended it to others and even if it fails tomorrow, I would go with it again. As always YMMV.
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:34   #20
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I don't have anyplace else I can put them
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:51   #21
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Dry Ideas?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strygaldwir View Post
I don't have anyplace else I can put them
Sounds like an idea for a new thread.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:15   #22
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I don't have anyplace else I can put them! I have a catamaran, VERY shallow bilges. I need to put them VERY close to the Fridge and Freezer. The extensions are VERY EXPENSIVE. I could probably get rid of the only storage cabinet I have in one of the cabins, but my wife is NOT going for that. The other possible location is where I have the Clark pump and filters for the water maker. Re-routing that is not a very good option!!! There was a purpose built shelf in my engine room for a compressor (I replaced an engine driven/AC Seafrost system with the Frigoboat units)

If you'll look at some of my other post, you'll see that I was once very much a proponent of the Frigoboat systems. I even had some discussions with Richard Kollmann on the relative merits of the Keel coolers vs air cooling.

My issue is I guess my expectations are high. I spend $4k on refrigerator and freezer units with you, I think I should qualify as a good customer. Especially when things haven't been as easy as one has been led to believe they would be. If it had been my organization I'd have sent the customer who just spent MORE than $4,000 with me the board for free. Especially since it probably only cost me $100 ( I don't know what their cost were, I am just working myself up again! ;-)) Especially when it cost the customer $60 to ship it to me! Especially when it cost $120 to ship it back to the customer. Especially when it cost $70 in duty to get it back. Especially.... Sigh;

All that aside, I think they are amazingly efficient units. I have used them also when the boat was on the hard (I posted a positive post on this aspect) I have not had issues with the Keel cooler as some have (Get the ones with the zincs built in). They should be easy for the novice to install, especially if you don't have a leak (haven't had any since the original adventure).

I think the Danfoss compressors are GREAT, cost effective technology. They were NOT however designed with the marine environment in mind. I absolutely believe they can be adapted to a marine environment. It just takes a bit of thought. This is what I meant when I said I'd buy Richard Kollmann's book and design my own. I'd still use the keel coolers, I'd still use Danfoss, probably still use thin evaporator plates (I have to read the book). I would re-coat my controller board, I would probably redesign the control and power attachments to the board (solder and use ring terminal connectors). I would put dielectric grease on the controller board to compressor plug, I would better protect the brass tubing that ties everything together....

I was just hoping all this stuff had been told to me before I bought my system! Your experience is the one I had hope to have. I REALLY hope we haven't jinxed your system by talking about it!

(hit enter too soon)
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:29   #23
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I have a Frigoboat (actually three) keel cooler systems that have been working great since 2002. I absolutley love the system - quiet, efficient, and - at least my case -trouble free. I did have a call into VECO for support that they handled well.

I love to do my own work on the boat, but I think refrigeration is something that needs professional installation. It's too weird. I'm happy enough working on it once it's there, but the first install has too many "tricks of the trade" that I think you learn in refrigeration school. And while the cheap skate in me applauds the spirit of Frigoboat to let people save money by trying their own installation, perhaps this is not such a smart policy.

I also agree that the Danfloss compressor (used by just about every vendor these days) shouldn't be in a wet place. It's full of bare electrical connections and has a lot of painted steel parts. My installer found a very dry place but I still have had to put touch up paint on places where rust has appeared.


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Old 04-06-2009, 19:27   #24
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Frigoboat rules aboard Jedi. If you think the extensions are too expensive, compare their cost to your current situation and the costs of repairs etc.

Also: most other brands use the same Danfoss compressors with the same controllers so ignore all the talk about which brand is better. The only difference is the evaporators/holding plates and the condensers.

I made one change to our K50F units: there's a small fan (like cpu-fan) on the heatsink which they call the oil-cooler. I removed them and connected computer-case fan's instead, which are part of the enclosure I still need to finish. The original tiny fans clog up with dust too quickly plus the airflow of the bigger fans also reach the heatsink on the controller.
I choose those kid's-fans with multi-colored LED's so that I can see them through the vents to have an easy way of telling which compressor unit is actually running.

cheers,
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Old 18-08-2009, 17:02   #25
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Danfoss, if I understand, is one of the preimenant builders of compressor for refrigeration. I believe they are in like ALL the small refrigeration units. I see them in such diverse applications as ice makers at Panera bread. They are great! The issue is one of how the OEM elects to enhance the product for a specific usage. Is there a difference in ones implementation. The Seafrost unit I removed was sealed in its own cabinet, it had seals and gromets on all the openings to the unit. Its electronics were very well sealed. An occassional splashing is not probably going to hurt the unit, or the electronics within. (Now a full dunking may certainly be another issue)

My point is, you probably are well served by looking at the units and making enhacements as you have described. If nothing else you make the product better and improve you reliability! Both very worthy endeavours in my book.

Cheers,

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Old 17-11-2009, 06:46   #26
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I have a Frigeoboat unit on my Island Packet and it has been a problem from the start. In two years I have gone through three control boards at $300 a pop and still not working.

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Old 17-11-2009, 08:21   #27
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Hooligan;

My suggestion is to get some conformal spray, re-coat the board. Get some dielectric silicon grease, liberally coat all connectors. This is the connections from the control board to compressor and the spade control and power lines to the control board. I'd also look at Jedi's recommendation on attaching a larger fan for the oil cooler. (I have never seen these come on in my units however.

I'd also replace the screws that hold on the controller housing and seat the controller board. Make certain they are well seated.

I don't know if this is an issue with newer compressor or not, but my units were shipped and marked with 134a refrigerant, but the connectors for adding refrigerant were for R-12. The refill kits I found would not fit the connectors. They have converter fitting for the R-12 to 134a. I'd buy the connectors and attach them. This will assure they are on hand if the system requires recharging.

Make sure you regularly check and replace your zincs!!!! I purchase mine from boatzincs.com. Great prices
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Old 17-11-2009, 09:40   #28
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The Frigiboat control boards are just from Danfoss like for all the other brands. Overheating (check heatsink if any and use a small fan if too hot) and electrical problems (bad/corroded wiring or contacts, voltage spikes, bad charger etc.) are the main culprits. The Danfoss stuff is actually reliable so if it happens that much you need to look elsewhere.

cheers,
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Old 18-11-2009, 07:43   #29
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All the wires and connectors are clean, the zinc's are new, the refrigerant has been topped off and as far as I know there is no fan on my unit. I did not mention that it is blowing the 15 amp. fuse in the control box. I called the dealer and he said he thinks my wiring (power) may be to small. I will check that out.
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Old 18-11-2009, 08:08   #30
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I'd think you'd get the under voltage fault. I have the SSC controllers on my units, they provide me with fault codes from the controller in the form of a flashing LED. One of those faults is under voltage. Do you have access to these codes? There are instructions on rigging an LED to the controller board to display the faults available on a couple of internet sights.

Where are you getting your boards? Rparts has the best prices I have been able to find.
OH, and I DEFINITELY feel your pain!
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