Diesel heater fuel pump placement

[SailorJoJo]

Hi!

It's my first time installing a diesel heater and I struggle a little bit with the placement of the fuel pump.



Here's two pictures.

The first one is the setup with a mikuni that was already broken when I bought the boat.

The second picture is what I assume is a better install for a new one?

[skipperpete]

I got a Planar heater for my boat and the pump is very fussy about how its installed, also, its a metering pump so only clicks every now and then.... not continuously like an engine fuel pump. The fuel line is usually transparent which allows you to see bubbles in the flow[ATTACH]

[Windpilot]

2nd photo is the way to go.

[SailorJoJo]

Originally Posted by Windpilot

2nd photo is the way to go.

Thanks!

[Kelkara]

definitely the second ... you do not want a high spot in the line after the pump where air bubbles can accumulate.

[SailorJoJo]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

definitely the second ... you do not want a high spot in the line after the pump where air bubbles can accumulate.

Yeah..

I tried to troubleshoot the old Mikuni system that was set up as in the first pic, but I quickly found out the pump was toasted. What you're saying probably explains why.

Hopefully it's gonna work out setting up the new heater with the pump below the diesel tank so the siphon effect helps out.

[jtsailjt]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

I got a Planar heater for my boat and the pump is very fussy about how its installed, also, its a metering pump so only clicks every now and then.... not continuously like an engine fuel pump. The fuel line is usually transparent which allows you to see bubbles in the flow[ATTACH]

I’ve installed a Webasto and a Espar and in both installations the instructions stressed that it was important to use a solid fuel line so the pulses of fuel are transmitted to the heater rather than being partially absorbed by the elasticity of soft sided hoses. I agree it would be useful to see any bubbles in the line to assist in troubleshooting problems but I think I’d limit the use of clear hose to something like an inch to avoid diminishing the intensity of the pulses of fuel that the unit depends on to work correctly. There’s presumably a reason why all these units use a pulse pump rather than a pump that applies a steady pressure such as those found in most other applications.

[Kelkara]

my chinese heater came with a rigid hose that was translucent enough to see bubbles ...

This guy does a good job explaining how to set them up and why:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jCZhjGyR3bo

[freshalaska]

My Dickinson heater wants the fuel pump installed higher than the heater. Fuel pumps are good at pulling and not good at pushing. Better get it right.

[Tugwit]

I installed an Espar hydronic furnace where the fuel dosing pump is built into the furnace housing.

I found it useful to include a small ball valve in the fuel supply line from the tank pick-up. The valve is closed when the furnace is not in use or when the furnace must be disconnected from the fuel line for service. This helps to maintain a prime in the fuel supply and reduce the need to bleed air from the line.

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by SailorJoJo

Hi!

It's my first time installing a diesel heater and I struggle a little bit with the placement of the fuel pump.



Here's two pictures.

The first one is the setup with a mikuni that was already broken when I bought the boat.

The second picture is what I assume is a better install for a new one?

Second option is the best , I have the same unit things to watch out for: keep fuel line away from hot exhaust also I had the hotair outlets come loose at least 2 times used copper top sillicone hi heat gasket material To fix that excellent unit
air flow can be very hot if outlet is close to the unit
Still treating a burn on side of my right foot

[SailorJoJo]

Originally Posted by c.K.

Second option is the best , I have the same unit things to watch out for: keep fuel line away from hot exhaust also I had the hotair outlets come loose at least 2 times used copper top sillicone hi heat gasket material To fix that excellent unit
air flow can be very hot if outlet is close to the unit
Still treating a burn on side of my right foot

Yikes, that sounds pretty bad. I’m Norwegian so I struggle a little bit with the lack of punctuations, but I think I understand what you’re saying.

On my new heater I’m surprised how close the fuel intake is to the exaust outlet, but it’s the same china brand that everyone use.

My biggest issue now is that the older exhaust exit is slightly bigger in dimensions than my new one. I just need to figure out some solution/adapter.

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by SailorJoJo

Yikes, that sounds pretty bad. I’m Norwegian so I struggle a little bit with the lack of punctuations, but I think I understand what you’re saying.

On my new heater I’m surprised how close the fuel intake is to the exaust outlet, but it’s the same china brand that everyone use.

My biggest issue now is that the older exhaust exit is slightly bigger in dimensions than my new one. I just need to figure out some solution/adapter.

You could cut 1inch piece of bigger exhaust and shimm it with the help of some Hi heat gasket material
you may have to flatten it and then wrap it around your smaller exhaust
Myself : since you are not allowed to have the exhaust longer than 3 feet or so ,l I drilled a bigger hole into my bathroom wall fed the flex exhaust through and angled it up in to an 1.3/4 316 tube going up 6 feet and then out through the roof
The bigger wall holes I filled with fibre glass cord soaked in hi heat resistant bedding material
At the start up there is a puff of smoke in my well vented bathroom but once running no problem what so ever
As a chimney cap I used an old propane exhaust cap

[SailorJoJo]

Originally Posted by c.K.

You could cut 1inch piece of bigger exhaust and shimm it with the help of some Hi heat gasket material
you may have to flatten it and then wrap it around your smaller exhaust
Myself : since you are not allowed to have the exhaust longer than 3 feet or so ,l I drilled a bigger hole into my bathroom wall fed the flex exhaust through and angled it up in to an 1.3/4 316 tube going up 6 feet and then out through the roof
The bigger wall holes I filled with fibre glass cord soaked in hi heat resistant bedding material
At the start up there is a puff of smoke in my well vented bathroom but once running no problem what so ever
As a chimney cap I used an old propane exhaust cap

I thought of doing that, cutting a ring from a bigger exhaust and fill the rest with the high heat gasket stuff.

But the exhaust not being longer than a meter/3 feet? Mine is at least 1,5 meters. I've never heard of that.

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by SailorJoJo

I thought of doing that, cutting a ring from a bigger exhaust and fill the rest with the high heat gasket stuff.

But the exhaust not being longer than a meter/3 feet? Mine is at least 1,5 meters. I've never heard of that.

In case you have the orange china planar heater, that is what is says in the, instructions, any ways there is an issue with condensation in the exhaust , like I said before mine goes into a much bigger diameter pipe strait up 6feet
Isn't there a muffler with yours?
the small exhaust pipe that came with the unit did not fit this muffler but the flex exhaust you can buy will, so here I used a piece of the bigger pipe and wisted it on the smaller with some effort, in this way you can use that muffler as connection once again use hi heat sillicone gasket mat .